Model Rail RTR Y1, Y3
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Model Rail RTR Y1, Y3
I have been told that in the Nov issue of Model Rail that Dapol are dooing a RTR Y1 and Y3 not shore how long before it will come out.
- richard
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Re: Model Rail RTR Y1, Y3
In which scale?
Considering I was shrink-fitting the PD Marsh one in N scale yesterday, I bet it will be an N scale one! lol
(as well as being the correct size, mine is also fitted with a DCC module)
Richard
Considering I was shrink-fitting the PD Marsh one in N scale yesterday, I bet it will be an N scale one! lol
(as well as being the correct size, mine is also fitted with a DCC module)
Richard
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Re: Model Rail RTR Y1, Y3
In 4mm OO scale.
Re: Model Rail RTR Y1, Y3
Sweet! I was planning to build a Nu-Cast kit Sentinel, but now I can turn my attentions elsewhere.
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Re: Model Rail RTR Y1, Y3
Now that is interesting - I was digging through some kits that I have had for ages, and found that I have the P&D Marsh Sentinal shunter kit, but I have never made it up as I could never get the Farish motor bogie for it!richard wrote:In which scale?
Considering I was shrink-fitting the PD Marsh one in N scale yesterday, I bet it will be an N scale one! lol
(as well as being the correct size, mine is also fitted with a DCC module)
Richard
However, after your posting, I bought one of the Pro-Models shunters last night on e-bay, and am going to have a go at fitting the two together some time! Did you have to make many modifications to either the kit or the chassis?
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Re: Model Rail RTR Y1, Y3
I'm the same as Matt D, was planning to build a Nu-Cast white metal kit with Black Beatle next year. But now can build something else. Probably have a go at building a comet Chassis for the B1.
Its a nice suprise though. I will have to wait for the Mag to arrive in Australia at the end of December.
If Hornby decide to do a D10/11 Director or any other LNER loco, I will have to sell the house!
Good news
Mark
In Oz
Its a nice suprise though. I will have to wait for the Mag to arrive in Australia at the end of December.
If Hornby decide to do a D10/11 Director or any other LNER loco, I will have to sell the house!
Good news
Mark
In Oz
- richard
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Re: Model Rail RTR Y1, Y3
Paul:
I've just submitted an article to the NGS Journal about the Pro Models chassis. There's been some interest, so I thought I'd write up my experiences.
The body is modified so that it is the correct length. I measured the lengths from side-on photo in Yeadons. I'm sure the 2mm finescale guys would have fits, but I thought this was accurate enough considering everything else! You only have to trim two parts of the sides. It needs to be shorter by about 3mm - cut this from the short (coal/water) end. You also need to take a mm or so from the cab windows that look out over the coal/water (these lengths are from memory). They don't sound much but as you can see it does make it look better. To fit, you'll need to trim the roof down to size. And use scrap to reconstruct the "window frames" that look out over coal/water, and replace the water tank cover (this is a PD Marsh invention to hide the corner of the HST chassis!). This is an area where I'll need to add putty and copious coal!
For the chassis, you only HAVE to remove the black lugs on either side, so that it fits in the body. I might add some extra styrene to give a tighter fit.
The module has also been fitted with a DCC module (Digitrax DZ125 iirc). To do this, you need to glue (epoxy) the motor and pickups to the chassis base. Them cut the pickup frets about half way down the side of motor (they reach up and are soldered to a circuit board on top of the motor - this holds the motor and circuit board in place). Desolder the top halves. Solder the module to the two remaining (lower) halves and the contact pads on the circuit board (where the top halves were attached).
The Sentinel hasn't seen any proper running yet, but this treatment has worked well with the W&U tram which has seen some Show running.
Richard
I've just submitted an article to the NGS Journal about the Pro Models chassis. There's been some interest, so I thought I'd write up my experiences.
The body is modified so that it is the correct length. I measured the lengths from side-on photo in Yeadons. I'm sure the 2mm finescale guys would have fits, but I thought this was accurate enough considering everything else! You only have to trim two parts of the sides. It needs to be shorter by about 3mm - cut this from the short (coal/water) end. You also need to take a mm or so from the cab windows that look out over the coal/water (these lengths are from memory). They don't sound much but as you can see it does make it look better. To fit, you'll need to trim the roof down to size. And use scrap to reconstruct the "window frames" that look out over coal/water, and replace the water tank cover (this is a PD Marsh invention to hide the corner of the HST chassis!). This is an area where I'll need to add putty and copious coal!
For the chassis, you only HAVE to remove the black lugs on either side, so that it fits in the body. I might add some extra styrene to give a tighter fit.
The module has also been fitted with a DCC module (Digitrax DZ125 iirc). To do this, you need to glue (epoxy) the motor and pickups to the chassis base. Them cut the pickup frets about half way down the side of motor (they reach up and are soldered to a circuit board on top of the motor - this holds the motor and circuit board in place). Desolder the top halves. Solder the module to the two remaining (lower) halves and the contact pads on the circuit board (where the top halves were attached).
The Sentinel hasn't seen any proper running yet, but this treatment has worked well with the W&U tram which has seen some Show running.
Richard
Richard Marsden
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Re: Model Rail RTR Y1, Y3
Thanks for that Richard - it wil be even easier for me as I am old-fashioned and haven't gone down the DCC route yet!
LNER fan in the home of the GWR!