My models (some LNER)

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:06 pm

P2-ish is what I'm aiming for with this one.

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:02 pm

Latest photos of my W1/3. Now comes with a name, and glossy blue finish to wrap and tender sides. Almost ready for the transfers and cab detailing.

60800 · Post by **60800** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:29 pm

It looks more like a real steam loco than the streamlined Merchant Navies did. Great job

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 6:06 am

I actually prefer Channel Packet with the widow's peak as built. It was an odd look, but it seemed to work for that loco. Mind you, using that much metal in wartime should, and did, raise a heck of a lot of eyebrows.

Blink Bonny · Post by **Blink Bonny** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:03 pm

Ay up!

Strange as it may seem, it actually saved metal.

Although there are conventional spashers beneath, the boilers were lagged in fibreglass mattresses and had no cladding plates wrapped round them. It was the "ait smoothed" casing that got the SR permission to build them plus the 6' 2" drivers - the same as many LNER mixed traffic classes.

With their predecessors, the Q1, the shape was because of the boiler insulation. This could not take any weight, so they had a square casing added. As no less than Sir William Stanier said of them: "Wierd - where d'you put the key?"

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 11:44 pm

A couple of photos of my monsters at a model show this past weekend.

2002EarlMarischal · Post by **2002EarlMarischal** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 12:49 am

I'm sure your "monsters" must have created much interest at the show.

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 8:03 am

Most of the 'stuff' I had with me created interest that day - from the trams in the background to the Batmobile on the layout. I had questions about how an observation car worked; what the Reid experimental locomotives were; why I had named the 'Big Blue' Leader when a bird might have been more appropriate?

I think the drawings created the greatest interest - not sure many people either do them as part of their process, or display them with the models afterwards.

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 10:20 am

On another point, I'm at that stage where I can be putting numbers and letters on. I know the tender is going to carry LNER, but any thoughts about which numbering sequence I should use for Leader? It was originally going to be 10003 with nods of the head to both the original Hush-Hush and the P2 numbering.

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:37 pm

Okay, past few days have been both productive and destructive. Productive - numbering and lettering done on the W1/3. Destructive - managed to break my tender connection wires putting the tender on for the picture below; got screwed over by Royal Mail who managed to lose a parcel from Chester to Sheffield, but at least the alternative source of parts came through, many thanks to Flyingwarship.

The W1/3 is nearing completion and will hopefully be having it's inaugural run at Ruddington on Sunday in completed form - pictures to follow then.

The Mountain will be restarting once I get all of my bits together and can form an 8-coupled chassis from the parts mentioned earlier. Question for Graeme - what do you use when cutting through Chinese metal chassis blocks?

2002EarlMarischal · Post by **2002EarlMarischal** » Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:23 am

I too would be interested to know what method Graeme uses. As per page 13 of my thread, I found a junior hacksaw was perfectly adequate for the job. The bigger issue was how to hold the chassis blocks still whilst cutting them.

Atlantic 3279 · Post by **Atlantic 3279** » Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:20 am

Manxman1831 wrote:Question for Graeme - what do you use when cutting through Chinese metal chassis blocks?

Piercing saw, a gentle touch, and a large dose of patience as it doesn't cut through in a hurry. With care however the cut can be clean and straight with the saw blade still unbroken and of further use at the end of the job! You can turn corners too. Because you don't apply any significant force with the piercing saw (you'll just snap the blade if you do) you don't have problems in trying to hold the "still fully dressed" chassis firmly enough. I tried a junior hacksaw once but in order to get any greater speed of cutting than was possible with the more controllable piercing saw the chassis would have to be very firmly clamped and that would require almost everything delicate or vulnerable to firstly be stripped off.

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Thu Jun 21, 2012 10:09 am

Okay thanks. I'm looking to cut the front frame extension from one chassis and replace it with everything in front of the motor/gear train from a second. I've looked at the chassis I used on 10003 and have spotted the screwholes I need to keep intact for this to work. Going at it this way 'should' leave me with the motor for the 4-8-2 being housed in the firebox (plenty of room in there), as well as a chassis for a 4-4-2 for a future project.

I hope it works.

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 12:34 pm

Okay, some progress shots.

'Leader' - nearly complete save for lamp brackets, cab interior and coal.

'Warspite' - on with the smoothing of filler; tender has arrived and shan't be modified (I like it as is).

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 5:37 pm

Heaps of progress and glue-sniffing (really need to find one that doesn't make me gag when I use it - cyano and poly cement are both getting to me lately).