Daves C & W Works
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Re: Daves C & W Works
Dave, did you have a drawing for the brakes on the H & B vans? I can have a crack at the fitted ones based on what's in Tatlow but it's not completely clear.
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Re: Daves C & W Works
Morning Jonathan.
No I just used the photos in the book and a couple of published drawings and sort of fudged it.
No I just used the photos in the book and a couple of published drawings and sort of fudged it.
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Re: Daves C & W Works
I know I don't really need to add anything to this thread except to point out that as Dave himself referred me to a section on it (to answer a query) I have just gone through it in it's entirety. It is possibly the best 2 or 3 hours I've spent looking for a specific detail but then becoming totally absorbed in what he and so many others of you are doing and have done. Possibly the best early Christmas present (along with the flagpole my wife gave me!) I'm likely to have this festive.
Merry Christmas and thanks to you all.
Graeme Leary
Merry Christmas and thanks to you all.
Graeme Leary
- Dave
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Re: Daves C & W Works
Bloody ell Graeme steady on, thank you indeed, but I think others on here are much better than I.
I'm not used to filling peoples stockings...............
I'm not used to filling peoples stockings...............
- Dave
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Re: Daves C & W Works
Happy New Year to you all.
Well I thought I would have many hours of happy modelling over the festive bah humbug season, oh how wrong was I,
hardly a moment too me self, still it was nice to see all these small humanlets running their parents ragged and trying to trash my house.
We all decamped and spent 2 days at Beamish between Christmas and the New Year... very nice. It's a crying shame those lovely NER hoppers are rotting away, whats going on, they should be looking after them.
Anyway I did manage too complete one of the H&B vans, and I managed to put lots of rivets on the MK 2 hopper, just a few more and a couple of internal handrail/stays to add to the inside and it can be painted. Those new buffers from Mr Franks at LMS are very good and add a tiny bit of weight
to the model.
Well I thought I would have many hours of happy modelling over the festive bah humbug season, oh how wrong was I,
hardly a moment too me self, still it was nice to see all these small humanlets running their parents ragged and trying to trash my house.
We all decamped and spent 2 days at Beamish between Christmas and the New Year... very nice. It's a crying shame those lovely NER hoppers are rotting away, whats going on, they should be looking after them.
Anyway I did manage too complete one of the H&B vans, and I managed to put lots of rivets on the MK 2 hopper, just a few more and a couple of internal handrail/stays to add to the inside and it can be painted. Those new buffers from Mr Franks at LMS are very good and add a tiny bit of weight
to the model.
- Atlantic 3279
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Re: Daves C & W Works
I'm pleased to see that the little angels did no harm to your lovely new models.
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
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Re: Daves C & W Works
The BR Modellers of North America lists show these older magazine sources for H&B stock:jwealleans wrote: ↑Mon Dec 10, 2018 7:56 am Dave, did you have a drawing for the brakes on the H & B vans? I can have a crack at the fitted ones based on what's in Tatlow but it's not completely clear.
HBR 10T high sided No. 1424 open Drawing MRN MAR 1963
HBR 10T ventilated van Drawing RM JUN 1976
HBR 10T ventilated goods van 7mm Drawing RM JUL 1976
HBR Covered goods wagons Drawing BRM JUN 1997
HBR Double bolster, timber Drawing MRN DEC 1962
HBR Vans (A) 4mm Drawing BRM JUN 1997
If you are desperate I can dig those I have out from the 'library store' in the garage, BRM's the least likely for me to have but then maybe...
(I tended to keep wagon drawings from all British railways given their more universal spread.)
Re: Daves C & W Works
Wow Dave, the H&B van upgrade is really good but that hopper is quite something else, just look at all those rivets on the inside!
I've got three of the 2mm Association's versions (very) slowly going through the works and, having seen the inside of yours, I'm suddenly very glad I'm going to model them loaded as, having seen yours I'd just have to try and emulate that wonderful modelling!
I've got three of the 2mm Association's versions (very) slowly going through the works and, having seen the inside of yours, I'm suddenly very glad I'm going to model them loaded as, having seen yours I'd just have to try and emulate that wonderful modelling!
Steve
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Re: Daves C & W Works
Atlantic thank you, the little ankle nibblers had a look but did not touch, I don't think they dare after the D10C got the treatment.
65447, I don't know about JW but if you are ever looking I would not mind a copy from your library store, but no rush only when you do.
Like you I collect wagon drawings from mags, you never know when you might need them.
Atso, thank you, I have done one proper one now (the Mk2) the others will be simplified versions of this. There is a mistake I have
made on all my hoppers I have built over the years, which now I see it, grates, and will be corrected from now on.
So after a productive weekend the MK2 is complete, and been primed, I'm rather pleased with it.
Plus low and behold and never fear, all forward and trust in the Lord I have put the "C" back in C&W. So after a long time building
other things I have started a Comet LNER Triplet Restaurant Car set (Tony L don't hold your breath). It will have MJT bits and fittings.
So to start I have started the kitchen underframe and the 1st underframe. This is the first Comet carriage kit I've built and so far so good.
In my haste I did not check my info and used the Comet turnbuckles......first mistake there are 4 in reality, only 2 in the kit,
fortunately only the kitchen car has them added. I'm not that impressed with the detail on the solebars, it is non existent unlike the MJT ones
and the profile is wrong, I had thought of cutting off the return and soldering a length of wire to the base, but didn't. We will see if it grates
but I think I will live with it.
65447, I don't know about JW but if you are ever looking I would not mind a copy from your library store, but no rush only when you do.
Like you I collect wagon drawings from mags, you never know when you might need them.
Atso, thank you, I have done one proper one now (the Mk2) the others will be simplified versions of this. There is a mistake I have
made on all my hoppers I have built over the years, which now I see it, grates, and will be corrected from now on.
So after a productive weekend the MK2 is complete, and been primed, I'm rather pleased with it.
Plus low and behold and never fear, all forward and trust in the Lord I have put the "C" back in C&W. So after a long time building
other things I have started a Comet LNER Triplet Restaurant Car set (Tony L don't hold your breath). It will have MJT bits and fittings.
So to start I have started the kitchen underframe and the 1st underframe. This is the first Comet carriage kit I've built and so far so good.
In my haste I did not check my info and used the Comet turnbuckles......first mistake there are 4 in reality, only 2 in the kit,
fortunately only the kitchen car has them added. I'm not that impressed with the detail on the solebars, it is non existent unlike the MJT ones
and the profile is wrong, I had thought of cutting off the return and soldering a length of wire to the base, but didn't. We will see if it grates
but I think I will live with it.
- Dave
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Re: Daves C & W Works
Well things are moving fast this year the mk2 hopper has been painted, transfers applied and weathering commenced. In case you
are wondering why the soleplate is rusted on a timber wagon, fear not it is not a mistake these wagons had steel flitch plates (I think that is the right term) please send corrections to Derby P O box 12.
are wondering why the soleplate is rusted on a timber wagon, fear not it is not a mistake these wagons had steel flitch plates (I think that is the right term) please send corrections to Derby P O box 12.
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Re: Daves C & W Works
It looks superb Dave.
Re: Daves C & W Works
Just read the whole thread. Inspiring stuff!
Once I've a got a few things out of the way, I'm going to have bash with some of my wagon kits.
Nigel
Once I've a got a few things out of the way, I'm going to have bash with some of my wagon kits.
Nigel
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Re: Daves C & W Works
Thank you Rob, praise in deed.
NDN thank you, blimey you read all this crap and waffle, well so long as it may have helped thats great.
The mk2 is now nearly complete just a coat of matt varnish to apply.
I have been slightly weathering the mk1 and attaching and finishing some early hoppers, some in the photos were built in the 70's, these are being weathered fitting new buffers from Mr Franks wonderful range and loads will be made to hide the crappy interiors.
NDN thank you, blimey you read all this crap and waffle, well so long as it may have helped thats great.
The mk2 is now nearly complete just a coat of matt varnish to apply.
I have been slightly weathering the mk1 and attaching and finishing some early hoppers, some in the photos were built in the 70's, these are being weathered fitting new buffers from Mr Franks wonderful range and loads will be made to hide the crappy interiors.
- Dave
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Re: Daves C & W Works
Some progress over the weekend on the triplet.
Some assorted MJT bits made up and the 3rd underframe started. Pic shows it being bent to shape, in a handy bending tool.
It's folded up and soldered now.
Started on the sides, one thing to note for some strange reason the door etch lines are not replicated on the lower panel etches and have to be scribed on, plus the door handles etc have to be drilled, indicated by the half etch holes on the reverse.......only, they are only etched to one door, nothing indicated on the other door (outer carriage) of the side I'm looking at, plus no hinge holes, means more work marking out. I was going to use the MJT turnbuckle etches as they have 4 queen posts, but they are too short and need extending to suit the Comet underframe. I need to check my drawings
to confirm this but my feeling is the Comet spacing is wrong and is too wide. I have worked out how to extend them but it may have to wait till I get some suitable brass angle, Doncaster show ?, I did say this was a slow, when I have the time build.
Now a question to all those who have built a Comet LNER carriage sides.....which is the best method to form the turnunder, 1. before soldering top and bottom sides together, or 2. after they are soldered together.
Some assorted MJT bits made up and the 3rd underframe started. Pic shows it being bent to shape, in a handy bending tool.
It's folded up and soldered now.
Started on the sides, one thing to note for some strange reason the door etch lines are not replicated on the lower panel etches and have to be scribed on, plus the door handles etc have to be drilled, indicated by the half etch holes on the reverse.......only, they are only etched to one door, nothing indicated on the other door (outer carriage) of the side I'm looking at, plus no hinge holes, means more work marking out. I was going to use the MJT turnbuckle etches as they have 4 queen posts, but they are too short and need extending to suit the Comet underframe. I need to check my drawings
to confirm this but my feeling is the Comet spacing is wrong and is too wide. I have worked out how to extend them but it may have to wait till I get some suitable brass angle, Doncaster show ?, I did say this was a slow, when I have the time build.
Now a question to all those who have built a Comet LNER carriage sides.....which is the best method to form the turnunder, 1. before soldering top and bottom sides together, or 2. after they are soldered together.
Re: Daves C & W Works
Always curve before soldering , impossible to get the curves correct with them soldered onto the ends.