Daves C & W Works

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 6:48 pm

Nice curtains. Would you mind doing me a set for the 'Maid of Morven'?

MikeTrice · Post by **MikeTrice** » Sat Aug 04, 2012 1:58 pm

There are a number of pigmented inks (you need the pigments for the depth of colour) that are claimed to be usable in technical pens although I would caution to clean them out thoroughly after use and before long term storage.

Some inks are Daler Rowney FW Acrylics and Liquitex Professional Inks.

As an experiment I tried using Vallejo Model Color mixed 50/50 with Vallejo Thinner Medium in a bow pen earlier over a Vallejo painted finish. This worked quite well, however the fast drying of the paint is both a boon and a hindrance. Adding Vallejo retarder did not work well, tending to thicken up the paint mix.

I also discovered a range of pens under the uni posca range that come with pigmented ink. Unfortunately the smallest ultra fine tip still gives a line thickness of around 0.7mm.

Interested in how you progress this one

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 2:25 pm

Manxman....Thank you...you jest?
Mike..I too have tried Vallejo and using the retarder is not very good for lining, I might try those inks, I have lots of Rotring nibs, comes with working in an Architects office all my life.

D113 - Underframe got sprayed black (Halfords) and then between the hailstones I managed to give it a base coat of Tamya Light Sand spray paint same as the D10C.

MikeTrice · Post by **MikeTrice** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:12 pm

The Daler Rowney FW inks work well straight from the bottle in a bow pen. I have happily managed 0.2mm lines on a Vellejo base. The ones tested were White and Process Yellow. Both had good coverage however the white was slightly more opaque. Given the yellow is a bit bright I would mix the two to use on Gresley lining. I should have some Rotring pens around but cannot find where I put them for safe keeping, a common problem in my house.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 9:02 pm

Mike..Thanks for the ink info. Bow pens are not my strong point, it's to do with keeping the tip well honed.....I find that hard to do.

MikeTrice · Post by **MikeTrice** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:12 pm

I know what you mean, I could never get good results either, until this post: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index. ... uling-pen/

Others seem to have found it useful as well. I must admit I did need good magnification to dress the tips. Lately I have been buying up old drawing sets at car boot sales or fleabay which usually have a couple of good quality bow pens in them.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 1:54 pm

Mike - Thank you for posting that info, I think I now know where I was going wrong, only problem now is like your Rotrings....where in the loft did I put them. I know I have a ruling pen that does parallel lines, 2 nibs together.

D10C - got the curtains hung, I'm quite pleased with the result. They are correct before anyone asks, the curtains were hung from the bottom of the vents.

You might notice I've lost a louvre....too little adhesive I think, still I have a few spare.

Manxman1831 · Post by **Manxman1831** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:26 pm

Very nice curtains. I was jesting about the ones for the 'Maid'. It would appear that I was duped by an O.S. Nock book (there's a surprise), as an official view with it attached to the rear of six 12-wheelers does not show any curtains. Does show plenty of antimacassars, but no curtains.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 5:03 pm

D113 - Main step runs cut from fret and cleaned up ready for soldering.

D10C - Steps formed from brass strip and bent brass strip, all ready for soldering.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Thu Aug 09, 2012 5:17 pm

D113 - Bending all the little step fixing lugs up 90deg and keeping them in line and not twisting was a bit of a chew, but soldering up was quick and easy, until one of the lugs dropped off. I will replace that with a bit of plastic card when they are fixed in place.

D10C - Steps all soldered together, I used a vermiculite block, placing the stepboard upside down on this, then pushing the brackets into the block until they met the stepboard. This not only held the brackets nicely in place for soldering but left 2 little holes at the correct spacings for the rest of the steps.

Onwards and upwards.............

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Fri Aug 10, 2012 9:40 pm

D10C - Steps primed and painted...just need touching up (ooh err) when fitted.
D113 - Steps primed.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Sun Aug 12, 2012 1:52 pm

D113 steps now painted.
Been busy making corridor connectors, I've got lots of the Mike Trice type, but for some reason no paper bellows, and some other type I've found in the box, but no idea where they came from.

These first lot are the one I've no idea about, after cleaning up I stuck some 20thou plastic card on the back to thicken out like the real thing, I trimmed this to the brass outline and then added a 3mm wide 10thou plate to the top only 5 more to do now.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Mon Aug 13, 2012 1:54 pm

D113 - I need one closed connector for the end of this carriage, so I've used the MJT version, I think they are too good to use as intermediate connectors, but I will have to as I don't have enough of the other type. Again plastic card additions as previous and the latching arrangement soldered on....warm fingers.

To all the connectors I added a lamp stop to the base of the lamp brackets, scrap brass from the nut part of the MJT turnbuckle etch. These were cut over length, soldered on and trimmed to length, with the ends slightly rounded, I think you can just make them out in the pic. The lamp brackets were then bent twice to replicate the setback on the originals....it improves the look no end.