Back to Basics with Blink Bonny!

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

I'm awaiting the plates for the B17 which should arrive later this week.

While waiting for my erupting hands to subside, my thoughts turned to coaches once again. One of the most annoying things about model coaches is the huge yawning gap between coaches. Yes, the "cam" mechanism fitted to the new Hornby and Bachmann Mk1s does improve things somewhat but there is still an annoying gap between coaches. Smart Price Models on eBay used to sell some fairly good connectors that were very cheap indeed but they do seem to be no longer available. The Modellers Mecca gangways are superb but very expensive. When I think of these, my Wallet attacks me!

So I decided to experiment. How hard can it be?

You decide.

1st off, cut a piece of thickish card to fit the gangway connector accurately. Cereal box card is ideal.

I love paint tins!

Next, use the template to cut two strips of paper. Cut these across the narrow width of a piece of A4 paper. Here I'm using white paper for clarity but black paper is easier to work with. The pencil lines on black paper show up as silvery lines. Then mark the width of the template accurately. Accuracy is essential here Any error will spoil the final product.

Next fold the two strips accurately into a concertina shape. Mark the centre of the top piece of each and cut from the base to the centre. When using black paper, the pencil lines help the folds to form accurately.

Now feed the two strips in together so that the strips form a series of Xs. This is the fiddliest part of the job and will bring out the foul language!

[Blink Bonny]

And so to Hornby steam chassis. I've chosen 2 Pacific chassis for this - a "Premium" A1 and a "Railroad" version. The RR version is a very early example so no DCC socket is fitted, an omission corrected on later issues. To access the interior, simply undo the screw under the front bogie.

Only the heavier valve gear and oddly shaped cylinders denote the RR loco. Note also that this early example has an identical motor to the "premium" loco. Later RR locos have a silvery coloured motor.

And there's the gearbox. Note that it is sealed. The gear train and motor are factory lubricated and need no further lubrication. This goes for all Hornby motors, even those on the cheap 0-6-0 and 0-4-0 chassis, although the gears do benefit from a drop of oil on these. Same with those diesel locos with a single bogie drive. Their motors are sealed for life. I have only ever had to lubricate 1 modern Hornby motor and I suspect that that had not been lubricated during manufacture. Indeed, I know to my cost that these motors object very strongly to being oiled! So, unless you plan on fitting a chip (and you're on your own there - I know not DCC!!!) there is no need to remove the body on modern Hornby locos

This is all that needs oiling. Push the drivers to one side and oil the axle journal. Then a drop on the valve gear pivots, crank pins and carrying axle bearings and your loco will run like a dream!

Next up - Modern (post-split chassis) Bachmann steam.

[Blink Bonny]

Final instalment for now.

If you use white paper you will now need to either stain or paint the paper black. If using black paper and card then no paining is needed. I use plain grey card because I'm too tight to buy black card! However, the black paper is cheap enough. Now you have a choice:

Here I've cut the strips into halves, suitable for bridging the gap between two coaches in one piece. Fine if your curves are very easy indeed but for most of us (including myself) this will cause the gangways to behave very oddly indeed! Cut the strip into quarters for tighter curves. Jobsagoodun!

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

Renaming a B17 in LNER Green. You know, when I got projects for the Summers Ore Hoppers, a Bournemouth 6-car set and a 6-car TP set this has reawakened my desire to own a B17 and a D49 - handsome locos. Not to mention the part-built Millholme Patriot, unbuilt DJH Brit and the brass Compound needing wheels, motor and gears plus a repaint.....

.... ho hum.

Anyway, to work:

1st off, we need to remove the old numbers. These can use either meths or white spirit as a solvent for the printing inks used but here we hit a problem for me at any rate. Given the dermatitis problems I have right now (they are healing nicely BTW my hands) both of these are a problem. Added to that, the B17, D49 and Patriot of this era use full cabside transfers so any attempt to remove the ink with solvents will get you straight through to the plastic! So, another approach is required. Here we see the lining masked off. Yes, Tamiya masking tape is better but I had none to hand at the time.

The Weapon of Choice! I tend to use Brasso to remove the old numbers. This is mildly abrasive (though for brass, chrome polish is much better for the longevity of the brass) so is ideal for removing the numbers. Here I am using a "pad" of kitchen towel. And you can see that it is also removing the surface of the apple green so go carefully. If you are modelling in BR green then Modelmaster can supply colour matched blanking patches avoiding this problem as well as "made up" number sets.

There - the numbers applied. These need a sealing coat of satin varnish to protect them. This is a very confused locomotive!

I painted the club colours onto the splasher using Humbrol Powder Blue and Revell Trainer Yellow. Make sure you touch in the edges of the backing plate with black. Now, paint the 'plate area with varnish (using matt here but any finish will do) and place the 'plate in position. The benefit of using varnish is that, should any squeeze out from under the 'plate it is easier to remove than glue. A transfer for the bufferbeam number was also made. I painted a piece of waterslide transfer paper red then applied the numbers to it. Trim this as close to the numbers as possible and then apply like any other waterslide transfer.

[Sniffer]

Looking good BB !

Can't wait for my "new" loco.

[2002EarlMarischal]

BB - what advice would you offer to achieve perfect spacing and alignment of numbers? There is limited time to position a letter or number correctly.

I think this is something than can be very difficult to achieve especially as the transfer sheets typically show numbers in numerical order. You do not see a 3 next to a 7 for example.

Even the "experts" such as TMC struggle to achieve this as I have discovered with second-hand eBay purchases which profess to be their handiwork.

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up, EM

If you're modelling BR days then you can use "made up" number sets from Modelmaster although you do take your chances as to whether they do produce the number for the loco you want, particularly for goods engines. Try the waterslides from either Modelmaster or Fox as an alternative. The Fox ones also have a line printed beneath them which aids alignment: 56D's 42152 on the link was numbered in this way - I could not get my hands on HMRS at the time.

http://moleendsandd.webs.com/apps/photo ... =146686732

There is another way.

BR numbers or the 5 digit many LMS engines are easier. Apply the centre number 1st, dead centre on the cabside and leave it to harden fully. Then apply spittle onto the cabside and you can slide the HMRS transfers around like waterslides. The downside of this is the increased drying time. However, well worth it. 4 digit numbers are harder. "By eye" is the answer. But still, spittle will allow the transfer to slide around on the cabside. The same thing works with crests and suchlike.

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

Why didn't I think of this before?

Sniffer had only sent the loco boiler and cab unit, not the footplate so a conundrum - how to renumber the buffer beam? Easy!

I made a transfer for Sniffer to apply. Take some waterslide transfer paper and paint a patch red. Then apply the numbers to the patch. Then varnish over the transfer to seal the numbers in. When you apply the transfer you will need to cut as close to the numbers as possible then apply the transfer as per any other waterslide. Easy. Easier than trying to work round buffers and drawgear........

Anyway, this'll be on its way back to you when I can get to the post office.

Incidentally, if you use clear transfer paper then the technique of making up 4-digit numbers becomes easier. Simply make them up on the paper, varnish, cut as close to the numbers as possible then slide the transfer into position.

[Sniffer]

Very good BB.

Hopefully the buffer beam transfer is "idiot proof" as it's on its way to me.

Seriously, it'll be fine. (Bout time I did something proper.)

[Sniffer]

Here we go hot off the press, recieved back from BB today and re-united with its chassis. (No pun intended.)

Pride of the fleet !

Lovely jubberly !

[strang steel]

That does look like a quality re-naming job.

Excellent.

[Mercator II]

Lovely looking loco, shame about the choice of club!!!

oOo

Brian

[Atlantic 3279]

Lining up number/letter transfers? - it made me struggle until my then teenage daughter pointed out a bl33d1n' obvious way to make it much easier: Measure up accurately then position a strip of contrasting-coloured tape as a base-line for the letters......
It also helps if you cut along the base of whole rows of figures on the sheet, using a sharp knife and straight edge to get the cut dead-on each of their bottom edges. Failing that, the slightest moistening of the backing paper makes it much more transparent so that you can place each item accurately on the base-line of tape.
If you use paper masking tape you can even measure out and mark-in with a pencil the exact letter spacing that you want to achieve. This is handy as the pre-spaced "LNER" isn't right for ALL tenders and tank sides.

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

Nice to see the B17 in one piece. Thanks for the comments, lads. Greatly appreciated.

Now, Graeme - that's a damned good idea for the spacing. Why didn't I think of that? 'Cos I ain't a genius, that's why!

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

A propos nothing at all - I recently experimented regarding simulating a load of ovoids on the tender.

For those who are not in the "know" these were patent fuel eggs, supplied to the railway in fairly small quantities. Some firemen loved then because they were consistent in terms of ash content and heat output, most loathed them because they often burst and filled the air with coal dust.

However, simple. I tried granite chippings but these didn't work. Liquid Lead did - painted black it looks the bees' knees. Photos to come.