Help with motors...

[TimMeese]

I have a Ks white metal kit of a C4. It was bought off e-bay as a non-runner, but offers plenty of potential. The only real problem is that the Ks motor is feeble. (I bought a Ks B2 non-runner at the same time - the motor in that is dynamite!)

I have seen what look like one or two suitable Mashima replacements on various (though not many) web cites, but my main problem is this. I see no method for fixing the motors to the chassis; the Ks motor has distinct lugs to take screws to fix it in place. So how is this done in general/what should I do?

Thanks for any help...

[rob]

Hello Tim,
Can you give a bit more detail?If an exGCR C4 Atlantic in 4mm it should be a McGowan kit,K's did the exGNR C1.What sort of chassis? Whitemetal lump,brass lump(milled) or Whitemetal with separate cast sides?If you can provide more detail it should be possible to sort out a modern motor.Even as it stands I'm thinking Branchlines,a 14mm can with one of their narrower gearboxes-the box hangs off the axle and needs no attachment to the chassis though may need some support/restraint depending on precise arrangements.These Mashima flat cans are powerful and quiet,very versatile selection of lengths available-check my workbench and you will see the 30mm long version on the appropriate mount in use on the ex-K's RODS,plenty of power.
I have a built C4 and (like you)a part built B2 so if you can confirm what you have I can hopefully help some bit.

[TimMeese]

Hi Rob - I assume its Ks - on the tender-base and the motor it has a cryptic couple of triangles and a squiggle. Ks is the only possible sense I can make of it. But you are right, it is a C1 (I think!); I had previously misidentified it as a C4 and somehow that's what ended up in the e-mail. Sorry.

The body is white metal. The loco chassis is a sturdy brass frame that has been well assembled. Essentially, two strips of brass 9.5mm x 84mm x ~1.2mm. The space between these strips is 9.3 mm. So thats ~11.7mm across. I'm thinking I could get a 13mm wide motor in there, but 14mm looks very tight - leaving little room for play in the wheels. What do you think?

I'll take another look at your ROD...

cheers

[TimMeese]

Rob - yes looking at your RODS (nice they are too), I see a very meaty motor. From what I can judge, the small wheels, high chassis frames and careful positioning combine to mean there is no contact with the wheels. I can't see this working on my C1. The slot available to me through the boiler is only 12mm at its tightest, but I think I could open that up to 13mm (just) without too much heartache.

So, now that I appreciate its not necessary to fix the motor to the chassis, I'm thinking that the motor/gear set combination available from DJH (AM10; mashima M1224D, 12mm wide; 38 quid) looks promising…


best

[jwealleans]

Tim,

Have a look at High Level gearboxes before you commit - very easy to put together, quiet and they do a specially narrow version. They will all still mate with the Mashima cans of whatever size.

[rob]

Hello Tim,
The K's C1 should build into a nice representation,better in overall proportions than the DJH version.That chassis is fine and will take a modern gearbox-I would follow Jons advice on this.The DJH box is excellent but in my experience the 1224 isn't strong enough for anything whitemetal-I have one somewhere which started off in a J50,it could hardly drag itself along, then was put into a lighter Falcon J88 and while the loco could move,it didn't pull much.Its now in the "useless bits I can't bring myself to throw out in case they come in handy some day though I know they never will" box.Maybe I got a one-off bad'un but the C1 is a heavy kit and they were a powerful prototype so it needs a decent motor.You should be able to fit a good sized can-the firebox gives extra room as well and the boiler diam is reasonable.
Watch for the drivers-have you the original K's?The C1 has such closely spaced drivers the flanges can jam against each other and may need turning down-DJH stretched the wheelbase a bit to cure this which is why the K's loco is better proportioned!
Best of luck!
Rob

[TimMeese]

Thanks for the advice guys. I've not changed the drivers, so I guess they are original; they sit close, but not too close; I'd say about 1mm between the flanges, so that looks safe there...

best

[Blink Bonny]

I reckon a High Level Kits Highflier should do it.

If you're around Wakefield this weekend, High Level will be trading there. Failing that:

www.highlevelkits.co.uk

should see you OK. He does a free downloadable gearbox planner on his website where I got the suprise that a B1 will need a Highflier to clear the frame. And my Black 5 only needed a RoadRunner.

I know - I'll wash my mouth out with soap and water.....