Atlantic's works: Portable layout - Scenic details next

[S.A.C. Martin]

Looking terrific there Graeme. It's surprising how similar in look the Bulleid 2-8-2 is to Gresley's, in terms of layout (the V shaped cab, smoke deflectors and similar).

For the P2 chassis that we may see a continuation of the thinking we had with the 42xx/52xx recent release - square axleboxes, no brass bushes.

[ten ten]

The gear tower/motor support looks interesting, have been thinking along similar lines of using the readily available and cheap Hornby gears/motors Assuming there is a common tooth profile to gears and worm,could have many uses.A mike over a number of different diameter Hornby wheels showed most shared a common axle gear diameter. Any possibility of more details, thanks in advance. It would get over the problem of etched towers when using 3mm axles.

[Atlantic 3279]

I'm happy to explain now that I know somebody is interested.

The rear motor mount comes with the motor. Its wide base with screw mounting holes required attachment to a platform wider than the basic loco frames, so I added a strecher to the top of the frames. Not wanting to put the motor at great height this stretcher had to go between two wheelsets, so on the 2-8-2 chassis there was little choice of for-aft positions.

The front mounting plate for the motor is a rectangle of 2mm thick plasticard, drilled at height to keep the motor armature level. The round drilled hole in it was enlarged until the front boss of the motor was a tight push-fit. A piece of plastic was then bonded back into one side of the hole to key the D-shaped boos of the motor in the correct orientation. A further overlappin tongue of plastic on the rear of the lower part of this front motor plate extends down as an extra stretcher bewteen the frames, producing a secure mounting. The rear motor bracket can be unscrewed from its stretcher at any time and the motor withdrawn rearwards as the worm gear easily passes through the D-shape hole for the front boss. Here's a repeat of the earlier image for convenient reference:

The "gearbox" was produced from 2 rectangular cheeks of 1mm plastic. I bonded only one cheek in place first, on the inner face of the main frame, so that I could easily shuffle the various exposed gears into the desired positions below the worm and above the axle-gear, and then mark the centre points for drilling of holes/bearings. The hard plastic / nylon gears are not as dependant as brass ones upon perfect clearances in order to get smooth. quiet running so this "hit and mss" empirical positioning of gears turns out not to quite the dodgy "bodge" that it might first sound. The twin top gears in the tower have to have brass bearings (3mm Markits top-hats in this case) as their axle rotates. The intermediate gear spins free ON its axle, so this axle need only be a good push fit in the gearbox cheeks. With one cheek correctly marked and drilled it is easy enough to duplicate the hole positions on the second cheek and then bond that in place.

I found that Hornby's standard axle gear for the Bulleid pacific wheels was of the same size and tooth pattern as the primary and intermediate gears in the Tornado gear set. All will therefore mesh and in effect only the worm and primary gear create the ratio, which seems to be only about 26:1 if I've counted correctly. I don't know how Hornby manage to source a small 3 pole motor that runs slowly enough and with sufficient torque to create smooth running at realistic speed and with good pulling power when the gear reduction is so modest.

There is one extra little quirk in this chassis however. I said all the Hornby gears with which I started looked the same. They were all narrow gears too. This made me worry about them coming sideways out of mesh if I allowed much side-play at all on the middle axle. The redundant smaller axle gear from my L1 wheelset, which also meshes nicely with the other gears, got me out of this jam (I'd replaced it using a Bachmann gear when I put the L1 wheels into my K4). I re-deployed this gear in lieu of what would have been the intermediate gear from the Tornado gear set. That allowed me to use that displaced intermediate gear, with its face filled smooth, glued tightly against the matching original Bulleid pacific axle gear, creating a wider gear on the axle. The axle can now have ample sideplay without jeopardising the engagement of the gears.

[ten ten]

Thank for that info-gives me something to think about when planning the unusual wheelbase chassis for a couple of "plastic rtr mod" projects,using Hornby wheel sets/gears in stock. If it works out ,will post the results/dimensions used. I go for your flange mod of Hornby wheels- must put my mind to making a mandrel for the mini lathe and do the same. I hasten to add Markit or similar wheels with recommended gearboxes/motors will be used on the etched kits I plan to make !

[Atlantic 3279]

A bit more progress to show, although time has been short as I'm trying to catch up on some resin casting whilst somebody waits patiently for his parts, trying to keep my head above water regarding NHS paperwork (in another phase of upheaval) relating to my real profession, and have been trying to make some progress with a professional website too. Frustrated is not an adequate word for my current feelings......

Anyway 11D5 now has brass front steps, decent con-rods thanks to Morgan's co-operation on the A2 projects, brake gear including SEF A2 shoes (I cannot imagine any others that would fit, and Bulleid might easily have used the same sort of design had he built a loco on such a cramped wheelbase), far better filling-in of the chasm beneath the cab, as well as having been relieved off its BR front no. plate.

I decided reluctantly to stick with the plastic slidebars and crossheads for the time being as although I had some etched slidebars that could have been used I had no suitable crossheads, nor the will to make or buy a set. However, I've lengthend the slots in the slidebars to suit the longer con-rods, removed the original bracket representation which suggested that the bracket passed through the leading couple wheels and have added a new logical (if rudimentary) bracket at the rears of the slidebars. I'd hope to eliminate the ugly little front plate that I added to the crosshed as a simple means of keepingh it in its slot, but there's no room for anything adequate to hide on the inside face of the set-up so it has to stay. Running is lovely, pick-up being fine with the haevily weighted body on board, and the sprung pony truck handles guidance at the curves, crossings and point blades nicely. Top scale speed with seven Gresley coaches is around 80mph.

For those with a sad fascination with opticians, our new website, if it ever gets completely finished and works properly, is at
www.opticiansgrimsby.com
This is courtesy of a "1 & 1" DIY package. Sadly, whilst the look of it is by my reckoning fine, I am far less than impressed with 1 & 1's search engine optimization wizard and the "trouble-shooting" skills of their telephone support service. It would be nice if Google could actually find the site at all, even if it doesn't immediately get to the top of page 1!!!

[Atlantic 3279]

I know a silk purse cannot be made out of a sow's ear, but even bearing in mind that this is "only" a Southern loco and there are faulty points in the old Airfix (Kitmaster?) tooling that I will simply never have the time or urge to correct, I nonetheless felt that I had to do something to improve arrangements around the cab. I've moved the tender drag beam forwards by 3.5 mm by means of some simple extensions grafted onto the frames behind the steps, so that the tender front steps now sit logically below the cab entrance rather than beneath the side sheet of the tender. The white marks on the leading spring hangers show where the rear edge of the steps was originally attached. I've also cut back the rather odd triangular lower extension of the tender sidesheet that was originally present (a misinterpretation of the sandboxes I believe), re-carving the ends of the exposed front substructure to look more like the actual bits and pieces in that area. I've also extended the tender platform forward a little and added a little to the rear of the cab floor to close of the chasm for the fireman's safety and comfort! It was easiest to lose the moulded handrails on the front edge of the tender when cutting back the lower sidesheets, and I realised that the chunky moulded rails on the very outboard egde of the cab were going to create problems for relative movement of loco and tender on curves, so I tool those off too. The tender handrails are simpley replaced by wire to match those on the Hornby BB tender that I have, and the matching finer cab handrails are moved in (correctly) from the outer edge giving more clearance.
Finally I added some plumbing below the cab. I had no suitable copper wire so I've used brass. The plumbing on the right side in particular I've had to simplify to an impressionistic version to save time and trouble, plus giving clearance for pony truck swing, but I think it looks better than no pipework at all.

[Manxman1831]

The alterations to the tender and cab area certainly do improve the look of those areas. I may have to do something similar to my Churchill someday.

[auldreekie]

This I find particularly enjoyable, since I think I recognise the process you are applying to a hypothetical locomotive. It's the kind of thing I try to apply to hypothetical NG railway buildings. Think of how they have to function, then see how form is most likely to follow function, then think about how to represent the result in miniature....

It's certainly fun for the observer. I hope likewise for the perpetrator....


auldreekie

[SAD Burdett]

Nice One Graeme,
Mr Bullseye would be proud of you,, and it's certainly "different" !!
Will it go round Triang Series 3 curves as well???
If we get locked up for posting "foreigners" pictures at least we will have somebody interesting to talk to!!!

SAD

[Atlantic 3279]

The Bulleid is very nearly done, so soon I can get back to some true LNER modelling, although the pace may be slack if the weather actually allows me to do some Summer things this year - I'm certainly ready for pleasantly warm fresh air and some exercise!

Here's the current appearance, in full (well tested) running order, wheels painted, brake gear painted and re-fitted, rod retaining washers soldered on, buffer sockets shortened to a realistic length, hoses and coupling hooks fitted (shackles not yet added), various areas of red, green and black paintwork made good. I don't have the willpower at present to paint up all of the details on the backhead, although I suppose I might glaze the cab. A better-printed set of nameplates and some transfers for both sides of the loco are required. A "Southern" ring for the smokebox door might look nice too, I wonder if one of the nameplate firms does one? A bit of grease / oil /dirt representation on the rods and light overall weathering witha sealing coat of satin varnish ought to finish the job.

[Tom F]

The Bulleid i very nearly done, so soon I can get back to some true LNER modelling

It will certainly do your soul some good!

Looking good Graeme. I'm currently gearing up to have a go at the D49 method we have discussed using the School Chassis (I have plenty).

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all
An interesting experiment, as was much of Bullied's work.
Earlswood nob

[Atlantic 3279]

't'would appear that Modelmaster Jackson Evans do a 4mm scale Southern smokebox ring plate for £3.55. Do any other heretics out there know if it is a good one and whether there are alternatives, either better or worse?

Whilst generally tidying up and playing around with the Bulleid in the last few days I decided I ought to add the piece of fairing above buffer beam level, in front of the cylinders. It was for once an easier job than I feared it might be!

Noting that Blackout's kind offer of transfers wouldn't cover all needs for this loco, I've tried to create some improved prints of my own for the Southern script and the cabside number. Despite carefully degreasing the sheet of transfer paper that I have, I couldn't get my current printer's ink to take to the surface at all satisfactorily, there being obvious blobbing and beading even on the lightest levels of ink application, only getting worse with a heavier dose. Thin plain paper has given a more satisfactory result, although getting the shades of the colours to appear acceptable after darkening by an overspray of clear acrylic was very time-consuming. I've also re-done the Thomas Cranmer nameplates of good quality glossy photo paper. Persuading the backgrounds to appear true red rather than magenta proved very tricky too.

[Atlantic 3279]

With apologies for boring you all to death with a Southern theme, here's that latest state of affairs. Cab galzed using acetate sheet for the side windows and a skin of PVA for the spectacles. All twiddly bits now on the buffer beams, motion darkened down a bit. Owing to a generous piece of assistance the matters of better transfers and of a smokebox ring plate are now in hand too.

[auldreekie]

Not boring at all. Far indeed from it. There was a lot of interesting stuff (locomotive and other) on the various parts of the Southern, and I confess I have a weakness for the SR Maunsell green locomotive livery, which I think shows to excellent effect the varied lineaments of the locomotives to which it was applied.

The Bullied might-have-beens are in a different category of interest, so it's great to see someone tackling one (even if a home-conceived one) with gusto...


auldreekie