Atlantic's works: Portable layout - Scenic details next

[jwealleans]

"Thomas Cranmer". He expired in a cloud of smoke. Is that going to be appropriate? Do you have a K's motor put aside for this?

[Saint Johnstoun]

His successor, Cardinal Pole fared little better but at least didn't have the same fate as his predecessor, but no doubt one of Bullieds 4-8-2s would have carried his name too!

The logic I put behind using Archbishops of Canterbury for this class was to do with them likely being used on the heavy boat trains into Kent and the fact that so many Locomotive Engineers came from families with a Clerical background! And of course I have lost count of the number of clergy I know who are railway enthusiasts!

One would hope that the 4-8-2 would have used shaft driven valve gear, but perchance the oilbath leaking might too have produced the occasional flames!

[auldreekie]

Following the theme, as ever, at a tangent, I'm trying to think what aborted Scottish locomotiove designs might have attracted the names of various Archbishops of St Andrews (some of whom ended spectacularly uncomfortably) - perhaps the abortive North British Reid4-6-0? Might be worth modelling one just for the h*ll of it, so to speak....


auldreekie

[Saint Johnstoun]

Perchance the Reid 4-6-0s would have attracted suitable ecclesiastical names. There are some nice ones. I upset the A1 boys when I suggested that their new P2 should be named John Knox!

Should I ever model such a loco (I am tempted) I would go for Archbishop Rose - he put two fingers up to King Billy and the Presbyterians got the upper hand. There was the elderly Minister of the Kirk in Kincardineshire who had his study adorned with large photos of all the Scott class with ecclesiastical names, The Abbot, Peter Poundtext, Dominie Sampson, Father Ambrose, Kettledrummle, and The Fiery Cross, although the last named didn't really have any ecclesiastical connections. The photos turned up at an auction in Perth, but I missed them so don't know where they went!

Of course Graeme's 2-8-2 tempts me to do a Loco Exchange version with LMS tender. If Yeovil was anything to go by the 2-8-2 might have not just left the banker a wee bit behind on Drumochter but a few miles!

[Atlantic 3279]

There's one thing I shall have to alter if I ever do motorise this loco by the method I've suggested, and if anybody else fancies doing something similar they'll need to consider the best course of action too. In going for the 6' 6" unit lengths in the coupled wheelbase, to suit my Finecast A2 rods (and the same would apply to adaptation of say a scale P2 chassis) I had to extend the body by only a modest 5.5mm. The thing is however, that the Hornby BFB wheels that I've measured on 92 Squadron are something like 26.5mm dia over the flanges and I presume all other modern Hornby Bulleid Pacifics are similar. If I fit those then I must either use different rods and increase the wheelbase units to say 6' 9" (as per the only weight diagram of the Bulleid 2-8-2 loco that I've seen) which may not look quite right under the body, or I have to skim the flanges down from almost 1mm depth to something nearer RP25. If longer rods were the easier option then the body extension probably ought to be more like 8.5 to 9mm. If you like things to be "right" you could also make a second extension to put another foot or so into the firebox length in true MN style .

[SAD Burdett]

Should I ever model such a loco (I am tempted) I would go for Archbishop Rose - he put two fingers up to King Billy and the Presbyterians got the upper hand. There was the elderly Minister of the Kirk in Kincardineshire who had his study adorned with large photos of all the Scott class with ecclesiastical names, The Abbot, Peter Poundtext, Dominie Sampson, Father Ambrose, Kettledrummle, and The Fiery Cross, although the last named didn't really have any ecclesiastical connections. The photos turned up at an auction in Perth, but I missed them so don't know where they went!

And Mr Cameron thinks the North / South divide starts somewhere between Potters Bar and Watford!!!!

SAD

[Postman Prat]

And Mr Cameron thinks the North / South divide starts somewhere between Potters Bar and Watford!!!!

SAD

Well, that's wrong for starters - the dividing line is at Eastleigh!!

I do like the model, although one or two 'Southern' fans are a little upset about the 'Thompson Pacific' version

[Woodcock29]

Hi Graeme

re your comment on the need to reduce the flanges should you wish to motorise the beast. I had to do this to fit Romfords to my Ks P2 many years ago when I built it.

Looking forward to catching up next month.

Woodcock29

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all
I also got caught out when I fitted Romford 24mm to my Kays P2. I replaced them by 23mm and used the 24mm in a Nucast V2, which gave me a spare pair of 24mm drivers. Since I've got back into modelling, I have rebuilt the P2, fitted a new chassis and used Markits RP25 wheels which fitted OK, this gave me some spare 23mm drivers, of which six have been used somewhere, again leaving me a spare pair of drivers. Perhaps I should build a 2-2-2-0 or something with odd drivers.
I did try and turn down the flanges of some old Romfords in my drill press, but the originals must have been oval/off centre as the flange width now varies.

Earlswood Nob

[Woodcock29]

I simply put my Romford wheels, one at a time on an axle in the chuck of my power drill and then carefully firstly with files and then wet and dry turned the flanges down. I know this is rather rudimentary but if you're careful it works. I think I've only ruined one or two drivers, having done this many times as I don't use any of my old stock of drivers without turning the flanges down a bit.

Woodcock29

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all
Not wanting to hijack Atlantic's thread, but that's what I did, Woodcock. It was a very old pair of Romfords, the sort where only the insulated wheels had tyres. Perhaps I pressed too hard on the file or something similiar. As someone else uses the same method, I shall have another go. If I put the file in the vice, and bolt the vice to the drill table, I possibly can trim the flanges without pressing hard against the wheel.
The great thing I like about this forum is that others are prepared share information.
Earlswood Nob

[Atlantic 3279]

That's basically all that I was planning to do. I think it helps if you arrange the drill and the file so that although still hand-held, the file is firmly steadied on a fixed rest at one end and by a well supported hand at the other. That helps to ensure that the file cannot dig unevenly into the workpiece and/or bounce over any existing irregularity rather than producing a smooth concentric cut. Of course if the wheel tread doesn't appear to be perfectly concentric on the axle or turning mandrel when you first spin the wheel, there's no hope of producing an evenly reduced flange.

[Atlantic 3279]

In order to test/prove the viability of the techniques discussed above, before thinking of buying any Hornby Bulleid wheels, I've just turned down the flange on a spare Hornby A3 wheel by the suggested method. The material cuts very easily even at a fairly low drill speed and I had no difficulty at all reducing the flange to an even, concentric 0.5mm depth using a coarse file, subsequently restoring the taper on the two faces of the flange and the rounding of the shoulders with finer files. I even managed to avoid disturbing most of the blackening effect on the tread. I may manage to put up a picture comparing the original and reduced flanges later.

[earlswood nob]

Afternoon all
In theory I should be able to follw that method easily as I have a pillar drill which has a table to which a vice can be bolted.
I shall try again with the drill at a higher speed and the file fixed to the vice and the vice fixed to the table. It's probaby my bad engineering technique that caused me problems.
Earlswood nob

[Atlantic 3279]

In order to perform the coarse-cut on the wheel I simply had one end of the file supported on the bench to steady it and very lightly levered the file into contact with the rotating wheel.
Here's a composite picture. The profile views ought ideally to be a bit clearer, but far left is the Hornby flange, next is the reduced (0.5mm) flange, and right is the evidnce of concentricity of the result.

I found no difficulty in turning the wheel on the Hornby axle. The plastic hub seemed not to suffer.