Back to Basics with Blink Bonny!

[2512silverfox]

Graeme et al

I think the ammonia is just one solution (i.e. answer!) Caustic works just as well if not slightly more corrosive. I use a 50% ammonia solution which does not give off too much of a whiff and does not damage my hands when I plunge them in.

I agree about the mains dimmer, but again I have managed with a 12 volt 25 Watt Antex and an H&M Clipper for more years than I like to remember! To Earlswood's point about bits/tips; never use the same bit for lowmelt solder and regular solder. There will be tears if you do! Bits used for white metal soldering need to be filed back to copper and re tinned fairly regularly if they are to be really efficient.

While on the subject of white metal to brass and NS, I find that lightly tinned brass will take low melt with a really strong bond.

[Dave]

Two things about low melt solder, one, don't ever mix 70 and 145 deg solders they give a very poor strength joint, alway use seperate bits for each type of solder, and mark them so you don't get them confused. The other thing is low melt solder does not flow as well as 145 solder so you don't always know if you have a good joint.

Phosphoric flux is brilliant as stated above, use 6% for 145 solders.

If you want further info on soldering C & L Finescale do some data sheets on their website, look under data sheets, 1: Solders & soldering, 2: Soldering techniques.

Whilst I was writing this it's already been mentioned ....must be quicker

[earlswood nob]

Well I've learnt something today. The iron I use for low melt solder has had its bit reduced to copper, but not by design. I keep it clean and well tinned, as it works like that.
I keep one for soldering electrical connections, and two 25w and 40w for soldering brass with 145 solder. I find that the 40w iron is needed for soldering brass strips together before cutting out frames etc.
They are all many years old, and still work, so I have no need to replace them as it would be a waste of money.
I didn't mean to confuse people into thinking that I use several irons for whitemetal.
Earlswood Nob

[Danby Wiske]

As this is a beginners' thread, it might be worth highlighting the difference between Caustic Soda and Washing Soda - people often get the two muddled up.

Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide) is really nasty stuff - one of its uses (according to Wikipedia) is dissolving roadkill, which gives you an idea of what it might do to your hands...

Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate) is the appropriate substance for neutralising flux residue. It can be irritant, so should still be handled with care, but won't do you any lasting damage!

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

I'd never thought about washing soda as a neutraliser. I'll remember that.

[Bryan]

I have never soldered at home and currently do not have any thoughts about doing so.
However at work I use this machine from time to time.
http://www.blundell.co.uk/products/sold ... ve/cms400/
In the production of Printed Circuit Boards.
The same basic principal holds here as well, clean contact points, Flux application and a brief dip in the solder.
In the morning I have the delights of tinning a couple of hundred wires varying between 0.5mm and 25mm ready for another couple of jobs involved with vehicle power generation.
That however will not be one wire at a time but I normally dip them into a pot of molten solder about 8 - 10 at a time.

[PGBerrie]

C & L Finescale do some data sheets on their website

Thanks for the link, interesting reading. And I'm going to buy a dimmer this weekend! A question to BB or anyone else - what solder should I be using to attach the iron wire droppers of D&G couplings to the phosphor bronze links?

Peter

[All thumbs]

[snip]...However at work I use this machine from time to time.
http://www.blundell.co.uk/products/sold ... s400/[snip]

Won't be many of those on eBay, I thought, but ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Econopak-SMT- ... 33790c0429 - bit beyond my budget!

[Danby Wiske]

bit beyond my budget!

£10k for the machine, plus the cost of getting a 3-phase supply installed, plus the cost of reinforcing your floor to support the half-a-tonne of solder that the machine comes with. Then you've just got to wait 3 or 4 hours for it to warm up...

I think I'll stick with BB's method!

[All thumbs]

bit beyond my budget!

...plus the cost of getting a 3-phase supply installed...

Darn, so I can't use the dimmer if I want to load up with low-melt?

[Danby Wiske]

Darn, so I can't use the dimmer if I want to load up with low-melt?

According to the advice given earlier in the thread, you'll need a separate machine for low-melt. Hope you've got a friendly bank manager...

[Atlantic 3279]

Well, erm.....as I use the dimmer switch to control the temperature of my iron, not allowing the bit to get any hotter than is necessary for the kind of solder and work that is relevant at the time, I more often than not DO use the same bit for all work, and I've not so far noticed any weak joints due to formation of weird alloys.

The new/clean bit is initially tinned at full temperature with ordinary electrical solder. Id I'm using lower temperature solders then the heat is turned down and the skin of electrical solder solidifies. I then apply the other stuff and wipe it off before turning off or turning up the iron for other work.

I don't buy bespoke bits either. Years ago I bought a length of round copper rod and one of phosphor bronze from Eileen's, and when necessary I cut a fresh piece off, shape it to my requirements and thus have a new bit.

[earlswood nob]

Morning all
Cripes Atlantic........I try and be as frugal as possible regarding model railway supplies, but making one's own soldering iron bits is something I've never thought of.
I do learn a lot of things from this forum, and now I've learnt a new one.
Keep up the good work.
Earlswood Nob
PS I make my tools last a long time. The fret-saw, that I occasionally use, was inherited from my father, and he was given it as a present when he about eight years old. He was born in 1915!

[Mercator II]

I have taken the jump!!

Not as neat as I would like, but for a first attempt at this sort of thing, I am happy

First pic is of the practice pieces



and one of the project



will have another session later once I get off my backside sitting on the computer!!

Thanks BB, great tutorial


oOo

Brian

[earlswood nob]

G'day all on a snowy day in Surrey
The only problem I can see about using the same bit for different solders is that they become a mixture with an even lower melting point.
If one cleans the old solder off before using a different solder then I can forsee no problem.
There is a formula for working out the depression of freezing point, but its so long since I've used it, I've forgotten.
Another point to remember, is that two solids can melt if put in contact with each other. One only has to look at salt and ice, both solid at -5deg, but leave them in contact and a solution will evolve.
However, if something works, then carry on doing it.
Earlswood Nob