Dead loco's

[Boris]

I have several loco's that have been on display shelves for some years and never had chance to run them.

The result is that when I tried them on a test piece of track they were dead.

Some years ago I had two re fired up so to speak but am no longer in touch with the guy that did them.

What is the method of remagnatzing the motors.

Anyone help please

[CVR1865]

Are they all B1's? The first thing i always try is a jolly good clean of wheels and contacts, this may require the removing of a few bits to access the contacts. Follow this up with a little lubrication of the gears and you should have some real winners again.

Good luck.
Simon

[jwealleans]

Hi Boris,

I usually work back from the motor in these situations. Put a pair of wires from a controller onto the motor terminals and see whether it turns. If it does, got back to the pickup strips/wires behind the wheels and try again. If that works, try the wheels themselves. It's amazing how a tiny bit of dirt or oxidisation can prevent the whole thing working.

A bit of meths or white spirit on a cotton bud can help - if it's more stubborn a bit of wet and dry behind the wheels (where the pickups rub) or gently on the treads of the wheels themselves - will remove the built up deposits.

Failing that try your local club - they will certainly be able to help.

[Colombo]

All the above suggestions are correct. I have locos much older than those shown that work p[erfectly well and do not need remagnetising. If you have the original boxes, somewhere you should have the manufacturers exploded diagrams and servicing instructions. If not, Bachmann produce diagrams for their locos on:
http://www.bachmann.co.uk/dloads/assmbly.php4
Servicing hints and tips are given on:
http://www.bachmann.co.uk/tips.php4

If you have Hornby locos that need servicing have a look at:
http://www.hornby.com/customer-support/downloads/

In my experience the lubricating oil dries out over time and produces a gooey residue that can stop motor armitures turning. In such cases relubrication may be the answer. If this is your problem and if you attempt to clean the goo off the motor bearings with an inflammable solvent such as meths, surgical spirit and so on, please give the solvent plenty of time to evaporate, because attempting to run a motor with an armature still wet with a flammable solvent usually results in its ruination as the motor windings' varnish will be incinerated.

Colombo

[Boris]

Thanks guys, I seem to have got some of them running again.

No they are not B1s they are 20, all Rivarossi U.S.outline from the 1960 70s

[Blink Bonny]

A good clean is always the best thing. Try some switch cleaner on a cotton bud. Only if this fails should you resort to sandpaper and similar unwholesome weapons of destruction!

[f4kphantom]

Iso Propyl Alcohol (IPA) is great for cleaning the electrical contacts , great on commutators, but is not too kind on plastics. It makes a good adhesive for plastics in fact.
It's not the same kind of IPA Greene King make unfortunately.

[Blink Bonny]

Now we're talking!! Personally, I would prefer their Abbott meself but the IPA's good - when you can get it.

[hq1hitchin]

For general lubrication of metal axles etc. try sewing machine oil, v good stuff.

[f4kphantom]

Peco Superlube or the original Daywat from BR Lines is what you need. It does the job fine with no no detrimental effect on the plastic.

[f4kphantom]

As a post script, don't use 3 in1, it is completely the wrong sort of oil

[Blink Bonny]

Incidentally, if you have trouble with rust on either a Romford steel axle or Gibson steel tyre, I find a liberal application of gun oil is A1 for killing the rust. It also seems to change the steel, preventing further rusting.

I know, wandering from the point but......