Atlantic's works: Portable layout - Scenic details next

[Atlantic 3279]

Delays happen, as I currently know only too well after weeks without energy! Ta for taking the trouble to show the result Simon.

[S.A.C. Martin]

No trouble Graeme.

Here's one of your conversion kits, finally on its way to the finishing line...!



The massive lining out job starts tomorrow after a coat of Johnson's Pledge/Klear to seal...not looking forward to the lining out!

[60800]

Simon, what gloss have you used on Faringdon? She looks lovely

[S.A.C. Martin]

Two coats of Johnson's Klear/Pledge, soon to be dulled down by weathering.

Apologies for the off-topic Graeme.

[60800]

Thanks It's the kind of finish I want for my Mallard

[Atlantic 3279]

It's always good to see what appears to be another neatly executed LNER loco well on the way to completion and I think yours illustrates an interesting point Simon. Putting aside the question of whether the taper of the boiler and the position of the S-curve in the running plate are entirely correct to go with the small smoke deflectors and V-front cab, the re-deployment of a set of RTR cylinders and valve gear (with apparent success as far as we can currently see) shows that those who don't want to get involved in valve gear construction and further hacking/mixing of bodies can still produce a loco strongly suggestive of the Thompson A2/2.

Can she be seen running?

[S.A.C. Martin]

It's always good to see what appears to be another neatly executed LNER loco well on the way to completion and I think yours illustrates an interesting point Simon. Putting aside the question of whether the taper of the boiler and the position of the S-curve in the running plate are entirely correct to go with the small smoke deflectors and V-front cab, the re-deployment of a set of RTR cylinders and valve gear (with apparent success as far as we can currently see) shows that those who don't want to get involved in valve gear construction and further hacking/mixing of bodies can still produce a loco strongly suggestive of the Thompson A2/2.

It's an interesting one, because comparing my loco to the Isinglass drawings confirms that the boiler taper is wrong, but the S-curve in the running plate may be right, or at least, very close to right. I hadn't realized just how similar the A2/3 and A2/2 were in reality; you could in theory use this boiler, cut the cab back ala the Peppercorn Pacifics, and this would be correct for one out of the six P2 rebuilds at a given date; but equally would better represent an A2/3 with the boiler taper.

I am wondering if removing the flatter dome and fitting the A3 type dome would make the model look closer to the A2/2 even more, though I dare not do it yet as I've just got it in a representable state for its visit to the club.

Can she be seen running?

Hopefully at the High Wycombe model railway club next week or the week after, but if you're after a video I can make one later for YouTube.

May I say though - after having taken delivery of a Green Arrow model (the latest one, with the new valve gear and chassis), I think I will be contacting Bachmann spares shortly to see if the valve gear is available separately. It would fit these cylinders and also work on this chassis very easily with minimal alteration if any. Watch this space.

[S.A.C. Martin]

Just gone back and rechecked the drawings - nope, you're absolutely right Graeme, my apologies. The S-curve is in the wrong place by a few scale inches. Still, as you say, it looks more or less like an A2/2...

[Atlantic 3279]

What with helping to prepare, erect, operate (using an unfamiliar control system) and then dismantle the untried Leeds Central layout a week or so ago at Caistor show , lots of accumulated model making clutter at home to tidy up and organise in a way to better suit future use, and only in the last few days a feeling that my energy levels have finally returned to something like normal following the dreaded lurgi, I've been slacking a bit on the matter of posting W1 progress reports and pictures. On top of that I'm deliberately holding some material back so as not to clog up my imageshack account and to leave me with some not-previously-revealed items to go in a proposed write up in one of the mags. However, I can now report that I've had a go at reproducing the rear frames in resin. The first mould didn't give perfect results but a second one looks a lot better. The frames "work" nicely with the resin rear end of the body, they fit my first modified W1 chassis from three years ago, they accommodate the same kind of rear bogie if desired or would suit flangeless dummy wheels hung from the main chassis if preferred. The moulded-on pipework has turned out much as I hoped, and the rear steps too - I don't now expect to have to mould those separately.
With just a little luck and a fair wind it may shortly be "full steam ahead" for the W1 project.

If anybody other than Jim (who I haven't forgotten) is still waiting to hear from me about supply of A2/3 and/or A1/1 parts now is also a good time to remind me of what you want, if you'd be so kind.

[Atlantic 3279]

This is how the master for the rear frames looked when first trial-fitted to the borrowed chassis from my previous W1 and the modified new body with resin cab/firebox:

[S.A.C. Martin]

That looks absolutely excellent Graeme. How much of the chassis needs to be cut away to fit the bogie, or is this simply bolted on to the end?

[Atlantic 3279]

I envisage two alternatives:

1. Leave the chassis block alone, cut out the front stretcher from the resin rear frame unit and screw the frame unit to the cab floor. Fore and aft of the little block at the rear of the chassis that originally carried the Pacific's Cartazzi axle fix on either tubes or wire-loops to carry two pairs of non-weight-bearing extra 12mm wheelsets. The front one of these may be okay with flanges. The rear one at least, especially for set-track curves, would have to be de-flanged or raised.

2. For "real" rear wheelsets saw the downward projecting "Cartazzi block" from the bottom rear of the chassis, screw the new frames to the base of the flat surface just created, and fit a bogie within the frame unit as per my earliest W1 conversions. This will certainly be okay for 3 foot radius track, and it may work down to about 2 foot radius so long as reverse curves and crossover roads are avoided - but I haven't yet checked.

It all depends on where the beast is to run, on whether you want the wheels to appear to be on the track, whether you want to see them rotating properly ('cos those rear ones aren't hidden from by any means) and on what special measures you might instead be prepared to adopt in order to make dummy rear wheels revolve.

[S.A.C. Martin]

2. For "real" rear wheelsets saw the downward projecting "Cartazzi block" from the bottom rear of the chassis, screw the new frames to the base of the flat surface just created, and fit a bogie within the frame unit as per my earliest W1 conversions. This will certainly be okay for 3 foot radius track, and it may work down to about 2 foot radius so long as reverse curves and crossover roads are avoided - but I haven't yet checked.

This is the arrangement on my W1 and it is beautiful around 3rd radius, but cannot negotiate 2nd radius. Not a biggy to be fair, looks terrific when in motion.

Graeme, I'd appreciate your thoughts on this below. I had a play around with one of my many defunct, spare, very old Bachmann V2 bodyshells, combined with your A1/1 smokebox and A2/3 running plate:



If you replace the dome as per previous V2 modifications done by members of this parish, with a Hornby A3, then what you have is not a million miles away from a budget A2/1, though I appreciate you are working on one based on the A3 at present.

Simply removing the rear steps on a Bachmann A2 and adding a new set further forward, together with removal of the running plate altogether, and the use of standard V2 valve gear will give you a close approximation of the A2/1. Using your A1/1 smokebox removes the problem of the V2 smokebox being too wide - sanding down the front boiler band, and simply gluing the two together, and lining it out afterwards would give a snug, clean fit.

Combine this with a cheap, say, current issue Bachmann V2 to nab for bodyshell and valve gear, and you'd also have the latest tender (which has the same coupling arrangement as that on the A2s, so will simply be coupled behind without much fuss).

[Atlantic 3279]

That approach certainly looks likely to be less labour-intensive, less nerve wracking and generally somewhat less demanding that my A3 super-carve-up. I'm sure that for those who can manage to live with the Bachmann V2 body, and there are plenty who can, the resultant A2/1 interpretation will be every bit as acceptable. Are you going to carry on and show us how it turns out?

I note the tantalising glimpse of A1/1, carefully placed just in-shot in the background........

[S.A.C. Martin]

That approach certainly looks likely to be less labour-intensive, less nerve wracking and generally somewhat less demanding that my A3 super-carve-up. I'm sure that for those who can manage to live with the Bachmann V2 body, and there are plenty who can, the resultant A2/1 interpretation will be every bit as acceptable.

My thoughts exactly. The only things I know would need to be done, are a slight filing down on the inside of the firebox sides of the V2 bodyshell (to cover the motor attachments for the A2 chassis - just tested this theory) and then removing the metal "shelf" formed by the sliding cartazzi's attachment point, which would need to be changed significantly for the bodyshell to fit.

Are you going to carry on and show us how it turns out?

I am going to dismantle both a V2 and an A2 and see what else would need to be done - no more cutting or filing until I am certain of what needs to be done. The one thing which didn't work very well on the A2/2 was the valve gear, where I had to modify the slide bar to fit the V2 valve gear; but on the new V2, the valve gear is an all metal, entirely separate piece, and will fit to the centre driver of the A2 by simply screwing the pin back in. It seems to use components standard to both A2 and V2.

On the A2/2, I had to glue the valve gear to the plastic bracket of the original A2 (much modified) - here it looks like I won't need to do anything but remove that bracket and fit the V2 valve gear. I'll put some pictures up on how I modified your A1/1 smokebox - it needs two specific cuts and some filing at the bottom to fit perfectly.

If I'm confident I can make a reasonable A2/1 from the V2 I've got for a steal, I'll make one. I already have the Fox Nameplates for Duke of Rothsey - which was the very first metal kit I failed to build...! So would be an appropriate build, nearly six years after I first wanted to build an A2/1.

I note the tantalising glimpse of A1/1, carefully placed just in-shot in the background........

Yep - first cuts made this week. Both running plates and the smokebox along with the front end are on. Lots more to do, and I have a cunning plan for the valve gear too I think...! Long term project, 60506 took nearly a year on and off, 60113 I think will be ongoing until Easter with the time I have. The A2/1 might actually jump the queue, so to speak, if it's going to prove a quick and easy build.