sawdust wrote:Have a look at 70YR11279, if I've read the label correctly that is.
A quick follow up. I managed to have a sample of 70YR11279 made up today. Unlike the other Dulux colour this one is unnamed and to my knowledge does not appear on their colour cards.
Comparing it to the Earlier Mexican Mosaic 1 I would say it is slightly less orange. Although not an exact match Dulux Ginger Glow 1 is pretty close so for anyone wanting examples of the two colours mentioned, pop down to your local Dulux supplier and grab the Mexican Mosaic and Ginger Glow cards "RGo1" and "RGo2" respectively.
So what about model colours? I have already identified Humbrol Matt 62 as being a good match for Mexican Mosaic 1 and was surprised to find Humbrol Matt 186 is a good match for Ginger Glow 1 (or more accurately the colour reference Sawdust provided above). Likewise Precision P60 LNER Coach Teak is close to 70YR11279.
So there you are Dave, no excuse to get the colours wrong but if they are wrong: blame Sawdust
Thank you Mike and Sawdust for all your time and effort in the colour dept, as I've been away on holiday it was a suprise to read all the info on colours, and yes Mike I will blame Sawdust if he's wrong, but knowing him I doubt it, thanks for all you two have done. Well I took some bits to work on but in amongst the sun burn and the eating of ice cream I only managed to form the seats, they need legs and ends to complete.
Having now had time to properly read what has been written, some comments.
MIke, interesting roofing experiments I agree the masking tape could not be considered a long term solution, the adhesive does dry out and it becomes brittle, micropore may be a way but I think you would need somthing to smooth and fill after it's been stuck down with superglue, I think I would try PVA glue. On my roof joints I used a lot of superglue rubbed in with my finger, after the initial application. It soon comes off your finger in hot water.
BB, tissue paper, thats what I have used in the past but not on carriage roofs.
65447, If only I still had some linen left, any poor drawings or prints were washed and used as ink cloths, dish cloths and car washing cloths, we don't have any linen at work, the NRM has a lot though...........but I think at 4mm drawing linen would be a bit big.
I have never felt the need to texture roofs as they are usually moving and you don't notice but I might start experimenting, thinks mmm how about stockings....with the blonde still in them wrapped around your roof.
Last edited by Dave on Wed Jun 06, 2012 1:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Well sometime ago just before I went on holiday you might remember I was pratting about with the roof vent pipes on the D10C, well here are the pics, I have not fixed them in place yet. I'm happy with these pipe brackets, so I'm going to take the other vent off (toilet cistern) and make some smaller brackets to match. I was never very happy with them as I alwas felt they looked too heavy. I will also prime the roof before I stick thr remainder of the pipework on, thanks Mike for prompting that.
Dave wrote:I'm happy with these pipe brackets, so I'm going to take the other vent off (toilet cistern) and make some smaller brackets to match. I was never very happy with them as I alwas felt they looked too heavy.
I love the way you are including the brackets. It really adds interest to the pipework and I don't recall seeing it modelled before.
How did you model the rainstrip? It looks like brass wire.
Paper of any sort looks overscale in 4mm. I mix some talc into the first coat of paint I apply and then make sure the roof is matt where the rest of the coach has satin varnish. That usually gives a fair contrast of finish and texture.
jwealleans wrote:Paper of any sort looks overscale in 4mm. I mix some talc into the first coat of paint I apply and then make sure the roof is matt where the rest of the coach has satin varnish. That usually gives a fair contrast of finish and texture.
Presumably you apply the first coat, including talc, by hand and optionally spray after that? I would agree that paper/cloth is more effort than it is worth in 4mm.
Mike you are correct the rain strip is 0.33mm brass wire on all 3 roofs, I might try 0.4 next time as it is a bit thin, but then they are very thin according to the detail drawing. I've had one keep springing at the end but I think I've got it beaten.
I did have some grey acrylic paint that as it got old got a bit gritty and this was great for roofs, sadly long gone, I wish I'd kept the name of the paint ......anyone know of an acrylic paint that came in a glass bottle with a silver label with a suit of armour on it ?.
Any way the D10C roof is now waiting for the weekend and a coat of primer then I will stick the pipes on....
Seats, these are made to the later drawing 6196N of 1928, there is an earlier drawing 5831N of 1927 which was superceded by 6196N.
The basic seat was made up from plastic card sanded to shape and consists of a seat base, seat cushion and 2 seat cushion backs.
Presumably you apply the first coat, including talc, by hand
I do, although often over a spray coat of grey primer. I do almost all my painting by hand and then spray varnish. For teak coaches it's essential as you get more graining effect from brushed paint.
To get the seat assembled quickly I built a jig from scrap plastic card, fixed the seat cushion to the seat base put this in the jig and then fixed the back cushions..easy, then A piece of 10thou was stuck on the back for added thickness and strength, it should have been thicker as the seat backs curve, I took the view you would not notice when in place.
I was amazed by the amount of plastic dust that was generated when I formed the cushions.
