Daves C & W Works

[2002EarlMarischal]

Ay up!

This is interesting. And educational!

Have to agree with BB's comments. Great workmanship - thanks for sharing with us!

[sawdust]

D10C - Battery boxes fixed in place, note their front faces do not line through with the main battery boxes, they sit in front. Main battery box sits 10" behind solebar, these sit 6¼" behind (see drwg 5922N). A pair of vac cyls added along centre line. I drilled a 4.5mm dia hole in each end before fixing so I could add the pipework later.

Ahem vacuum reservoirs I think you'll find! Cylinders are the bit with piston in them. Great stuff though.

Sawdust.

[Dave]

Thanks for the comments Earl marischal and Sawdust
You are correct Sawdust but in my defence it was early on a Sunday morning .

I was not happy with the fridgidair box, since I made it I got a GA drawing and discovered it had an air vent slot, you can see on the first one where I tried to cut one, so here is mkII, I think it's a lot better.

Nooooooooo there is a deliberate mistake on the 2 pics of the battery boxes on the underframe.

[Dave]

It's difficult....drwg 5922N shows the locations looking down from the top, I'm working looking up from the underside (if thats make sence) I got them transposed. The pics explain.

[Dave]

Well as you can see I decided to make some bogies to go under the thing, as now bits are being added to the floor plate it will stop them being knocked orf.
I decided to use the MJT system, I've used it before and had a few problems but these for some reason went together ok.

[Dave]

I separated the sides from the etch and cleaned up then the bit I alwas like bending them to shape. Remember to clean along the etch lines before you bend it's a lot easier to do it now than later.

[Dave]

All the bits soldered up and ready for final assembly. I put it together on a piece of plate glass with the wheels in place to get the width. This is where I went wrong in the past and not reading the instructions fully I think, any way they are little beasts to get right, all twitchy until soldered. Care has to be used when soldering the press stud pivot, it sits in an etched circle and will move if you are not carefull when applying the solder, I held it with tweezers and kept applying heat till I was satisfied it was ok, the other half locates in a hole and is dead easy. I used a couple of paper washers as temporary separators for the middle pivot when I soldered. On the whole nothing much to add, the instructions are very good if you read them, do a dry run, it will solve any issues. All you then need to do is add the cosmetic sides, in this case the heavy duty type with the double row of rivets above the axle box.

[Dave]

Well I've now got all the bits for my next major long term over winter project - a D49-1 in EM gauge. Yes I know before you all start, it's a Hunt body, but with a bit of delicate surgery with a hammer and other tools it will be ok, and I know the tender is to short....but will you notice when it's running with some teaks behind???. She will become 2758 Northumberland as built in 1929, allocated to Scotland, but it's my railway and it will run in the north east.
I must say I was impressed by Comet bringing the tender body at very short notice to wakefield the other weekend, and East Kent Models for next day delivery of the body and tender chasis.

[Dave]

D113 - Cast ends fitted , again these were a disapointing fit (am I doing somthing wrong?) and had to be filled, I used Squadron Green putty and when fully dry will be sanded down....and you won't see the join, fingers crossed.

[Dave]

Vac pipes.
These are made from 0.8mm nickle silver rod bent to shape with brass rod cut into 1mm lenghts to represent joints and tees, some were filed to approx 45deg to form the fittings on the bends. One end of the rod was bent through 90deg, this was to stop the brass bits sliding orf the end, then all the brass bits were slid on starting with 2 corner pieces. The first propper bend was formed with 1 of the 45deg pieces on one side of the proposed bend then the other was slid along to meet it after bending , so forming the bend, any gaps filled with solder and filed smooth. Proceed to the other end, I did not fix the straight connectors but left them able to slide along the rod. Next the pipe clips, these are cut from 1mm wide brass shim approx 6.5mm long with a punched rivet to one end, These are wrapped around the nickle silver rod to form the clips (one formed clip is shown in the pic) again these are not fixed but left loose to slide. You will need 8 clips on a D113.

[Dave]

The completed vac pipe ready to fix with all bits and clips fitted but loose.

[Dave]

MJT 8'-0" Fox bogie for the D113, all as for D10C

[Dave]

Just needs painting.... they run sweet as a nut.

I must have the hang of building them now.

[Dave]

D10C - Battery box repositioned

[MikeTrice]

You are doing a brilliant job. Nice to see the process so detailed. Keep up the good work.