Atlantic's works: Portable layout - Scenic details next

[Atlantic 3279]

In case I've not mentioned it elsewhere, as it may be of interest to those looking at this at a later date, I've also made a start on re-bodying a Bachmann O4 using Bill Bedford's 3D acrylic print for an O4/5 body. That work is covered separately at :

http://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6919

In addition to dealing with some more image deletions later, I must try to post a fresh image to show progress on the second Great Northern. The cosmetic alterations to body and chassis, barring valve gear / reverse rod / parts of brake rigging / front steps / guard irons / AWS shield are all done and painted. Even the nameplates are on, although no cabside numbers yet as I've been sorting out the mess I made when straightening the sidesheets ten days ago. The loco looks a bit odd at the moment, an almost fully liveried pacific but with only coupling rods in evidence as opposed to the usual full outside motion.

A local acquaintance of mine, who is really a GWR/GCR afficianado, and obviously considers himself a bit of a "2751", asked if it was the LNER version of that "other company" loco 6202
The point of leaving the valve-gear etc to be done last on this one of course, is that the loco may act as a test bed for the A1/1 custom etched goodies that Mr Gilbert will be working on shortly (see page 4 of thread on Hornby Pacifics 2012 if this needs further explanation).

I'm pretty sure now that I know where I went wrong with my second application of my sidesheet heat-straightening method too. First time around I'd succeeed by applying my home-made straghtening device to the curved plastic "cold", then turning on the heat, watching for the plastic starting to straighten, and removing the tool very quickly as soon as the sheet looked almost straight. Second time around I tried to introduce the straightening tool when already heated up. Not recommended! Parts of the plastic, particularly the surface layers, get too hot too quickly. There is no time to watch out for the "softening point" and to remove the heat before damaging the surface, or shrinking the plastic, or getting the whole lot far too floppy and uncontrollable.

I suspect that had I tried the "cold start" for the second attempt, allowing heat to spread gently and evenly through the full thickness of the plastic as the tool heats up, I might also have been able to successfully demonstrate that the plastic can be heated mostly or wholly from the rear, i.e. without squashing the edge beading flat on the front surface in the process of heating and straightening the plastic. A little padding between the brass outer sheet and the surface would would probably allow this to be done, but a layer of something shiny and non-stick such as greaseproof paper is adviseable between the brass and the plastic on both faces anyway, otherwise the heated brass soon starts to show the urge to stick to the heated plastic. In the end however, loss of the beading is no great hardship as for genuine accuracy the edges of both the cab and the tender need to be trimmed somewhat, and it is easy enough to reinstate the beading by sticking plastic strip onto the trimmed edge.

[Atlantic 3279]

Here are the almost fully corrected sidesheets. My ham-fisted heating attempts had not only distorted the plastic in areas that I wanted to leave in the original flat state, it had caused shrinkage of part of the lower rear cabside here too, ruining the "trueness" of that corner of the rectangular lining panel. Further, more careful, use of heat, plus some cutting out of old material, letting in of new, filing and rubbing down got rid of the distorted surface but there was no way to save the lining. Hornby's lining is so fine, and appears so subdued in colour, that nothing I had in the way of transfers looked remotely like it. I didn't want to fully re-line the loco in much heavier and relatively gaudily coloured transfers, so I'm trying to get away with "conservative tratment". I've replaced only what was missing using Modelmasters lining transfers plus an RCTS "RA9", and I've toned down the orange lines by applying a well thinned mixture of dark green and brick red paint over the top. This has also dulled the central black line, which I hope to revive a bit in due course:

[Atso]

It never ceases to amaze me what you can do with some brass, plastic and in this case resin!

Simply awsome!

[Atlantic 3279]

Hooray! I've managed to trim my imageshack account back down to 500 images by deletion of those that in my opinion were not now so important. Now that the risk of loss of all of my early images has been avoided, I can get on with some uninterrupted modelling, and post up some more images using one of Baldric's cunning plans.

If anybody is desperate to see one of my now deleted images, I can still get back to the originals, stored on my own drives, in nearly every case.

[S.A.C. Martin]

Just catching up with your Great Northern build Graeme. Looking good - also looking forward to the turbo gaining some conventional valve gear!

I had a question regarding the donor model. Is Sandwich (which I what I think you used off the top of my head) the only donor model from Hornby suitable for the conversion (without major surgery to washout plugs and similar)?

Mixing and matching tenders is not a problem in my case, but I've decided to go for 60113 in apple green as per her form in 1949 prior to repainting in the blue. What should I be looking for along with the washout plugs to select the correct donor model, is there is a suitable one that is?

[2002EarlMarischal]

Good luck with the A1/1 Graeme - as you know I'm especially interested in this one!

I've been looking at the alternative Hornby A3 models to keep all options open in terms of donor engines with the right boiler - actually, there aren't many are there?

In the event that others are considering this conversion, I hope the following summary might help:

Single chimney A3s with 94A boiler - St Gatien, Windsor Lad
Double chimney A3 with 94A boiler - The White Knight, Galtee More
Single chimney A3 with 94HP boiler - Ladas
Single chimney A3 with 107 boiler - Aussie Flying Scotsman
Double chimney A3s with 107 boiler - Sandwich, Coronach, NRM Flying Scotsman, Brown Jack

Please put me right if I have made any mistakes or missed any from the list!

Sandwich certainly seems the best candidate as it comes with the right tender too. If a tender swap is possible then Brown Jack and Coronach come into play. However, it is likely to be tricky to find a Coronach at a sensible price with it being so new. The NRM Flying Scotsman also has the right boiler I believe, though bands are in a different position so more work involved at the firebox end - would you agree?

Simon - this was my posting back on page 84 of this thread if it helps partly answer your question!

[S.A.C. Martin]

Good luck with the A1/1 Graeme - as you know I'm especially interested in this one!

I've been looking at the alternative Hornby A3 models to keep all options open in terms of donor engines with the right boiler - actually, there aren't many are there?

In the event that others are considering this conversion, I hope the following summary might help:

Single chimney A3s with 94A boiler - St Gatien, Windsor Lad
Double chimney A3 with 94A boiler - The White Knight, Galtee More
Single chimney A3 with 94HP boiler - Ladas
Single chimney A3 with 107 boiler - Aussie Flying Scotsman
Double chimney A3s with 107 boiler - Sandwich, Coronach, NRM Flying Scotsman, Brown Jack

Please put me right if I have made any mistakes or missed any from the list!

Sandwich certainly seems the best candidate as it comes with the right tender too. If a tender swap is possible then Brown Jack and Coronach come into play. However, it is likely to be tricky to find a Coronach at a sensible price with it being so new. The NRM Flying Scotsman also has the right boiler I believe, though bands are in a different position so more work involved at the firebox end - would you agree?

Simon - this was my posting back on page 84 of this thread if it helps partly answer your question!

Aha - brilliant! Many thanks. Just goes to show, always read back through a thread

[Atlantic 3279]

Following a little more tidying up of the substitute lining, and application of some more of the free transfers that I received from a kind gentleman in the Colchester area, the cabside of GN "Turbo" (as Simon has now christened it) looks more presentable.

I've also managed to drag a bow pen along the valances, after taking the trouble to make a template for the smaller curves so as to get a smoother, steadier result than I would achieve by trying to follow the footplate curves by shaky use of close-set bow-pen compasses. The S-curve is easy to follow without a template because there's a lot of overhang of the top plating to guide the pen.

[Atlantic 3279]

I may have mentioned this before, but part of my reason for getting involving in modelling the Thompson mutant Pacifics derives from the fact that my mate John White is building an exhibition layout based on Leeds Central and I thought he could do with a bit more variety than Hornby and Bachmann offer as standard in the big engine department. He doesn't build locos himself any more - he has too much sense to get involved in all the agony!
As he wanted some valances for the platform canopies, nothing spot-on for pattern appeared to be already available commercially, and even if it were, the laser cut stuff was going to cost him about £55 for the 5 meters that he'd reckoned up that needed, I decided to be kind to him. I've made a master in plastikard and started casting copies in resin, in pieces about 19cm long. I am hopeful that the one mould will remain in good shape for just long enough to produce the 27 or so strips that will be needed. This first effort has a broken top corner, but I've eliminated the feature that caused the breakage so subsequent castings have been perfect:

[Robpulham]

That's a nice bit of casting Graeme, you really have it down to a fine art these days.

[davidwest]

You're at it again! Excellent stuff

[manna]

G'Day Gents

Very nice casting, as seeing that 90% of stations have valance's, there not that easy to find, I'm lucky Edgware only has about 15' of canopy and valance, which I already have,

But the big question is........is somebody actually going to sit there and drill out all those holes

manna

[Atlantic 3279]

Well Manna, I hadn't thought of doing that, but if you're suggesting it that surely makes it your job? You will cut all the gaps between the boards below the holes as well, won't you? We don't want a job half-done, after all, do we?

On a more sensible note I was going to suggest that some grime worked into the relief in the surface would suffice, but I suppose in truth, in 1950s/60s Leeds, the colour of the whole valance would be obscured by a thick layer of sooty mess, as would every piece of brickwork, sandstone, iron and many innaccesible window frames throughout the city........

Does anybody have any ideas on what the hidden colour of any surviving paintwork on these valances is likely to have been in that period?

I must try to get John to let me take and post-up some pictures of his progress so far. His work relies on ready-to-use items and adaptations of kits to a great extent, but he has a way of making it look realistic.

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

As far as I am aware, cream was used for canopy valences. A singularly poor choice of colour on the steam railway. Nearly as bad as white for coach roofs.....

[2002EarlMarischal]

Ay up!

As far as I am aware, cream was used for canopy valences. A singularly poor choice of colour on the steam railway. Nearly as bad as white for coach roofs.....

Were all LNER coach rooves white, at least to start with?