Micks 4mm LNER Models

[Tom F]

E Bay personally.
I am not aware of any retail stockists of the current high detail Hornby or Bachmann bodies/tenders.

I personally prefer the Hornby version as its already the streamlined version and is a excellent model in its own right.
The A2 is one the another non corridor versions, at a minimum you would have to remove all the rivets and build the front up.

Photographs I've been looking at just now of the A2/2s (60503-60506) seem to show in BR days the front of the streamlined top of the tender was reduced in height like that can be seen on the Peppercorn A1s....I guess it depends what era you are wanting to do then.....if BR with the lower front to the tender, I'd say a Flush Darlington Bachmann A1 tender would do.

[S.A.C. Martin]

E Bay personally.
I am not aware of any retail stockists of the current high detail Hornby or Bachmann bodies/tenders.

I personally prefer the Hornby version as its already the streamlined version and is a excellent model in its own right.
The A2 is one the another non corridor versions, at a minimum you would have to remove all the rivets and build the front up.

Thanks Mick, that's fair enough. Perhaps a Railroad A4 body will be the cheapest option. I'll think about the tender, should prove interesting!

[mick b]

I am not a fan of Railroad as said before on here. If you can find a superdetail version as you probably know , you get

Glazing
Working Cab ventilators
Handrails
Doors.

One part I have never looked on the Railroad version

A excellent well detailed Backhead and Cab seats.

No comparison IMHO.

[S.A.C. Martin]

I am not a fan of Railroad as said before on here. If you can find a superdetail version as you probably know , you get

Glazing
Working Cab ventilators
Handrails
Doors.

One part I have never looked on the Railroad version

A excellent well detailed Backhead and Cab seats.

No comparison IMHO.

All true chap, but cost is a factor, and I do already have a spare Railroad A4 bodyshell. The plot thickens...! Looking forward to seeing the second A2/2 finished.

[Tim79]

Looking good Mick! Shall be nice to see it when finished.

Simon: if it's any help, I've been using the original Bachmann backheads on the pair I'm working on at the moment, but heavily hacked at the front end to clear the front of the etched cab. As this mod only really applies to an A2/3, you'll probably have very little difficulty in using it untouched. Also helps that it doesn't cost a penny extra.....

HTH,
Tim

[mick b]

E Bay personally.
I am not aware of any retail stockists of the current high detail Hornby or Bachmann bodies/tenders.

I personally prefer the Hornby version as its already the streamlined version and is a excellent model in its own right.
The A2 is one the another non corridor versions, at a minimum you would have to remove all the rivets and build the front up.

Photographs I've been looking at just now of the A2/2s (60503-60506) seem to show in BR days the front of the streamlined top of the tender was reduced in height like that can be seen on the Peppercorn A1s....I guess it depends what era you are wanting to do then.....if BR with the lower front to the tender, I'd say a Flush Darlington Bachmann A1 tender would do.

It is the LNER version being built. Tenders were not cut down until 1948 even then only a scale 2mm

[Tom F]

E Bay personally.
I am not aware of any retail stockists of the current high detail Hornby or Bachmann bodies/tenders.

I personally prefer the Hornby version as its already the streamlined version and is a excellent model in its own right.
The A2 is one the another non corridor versions, at a minimum you would have to remove all the rivets and build the front up.

Photographs I've been looking at just now of the A2/2s (60503-60506) seem to show in BR days the front of the streamlined top of the tender was reduced in height like that can be seen on the Peppercorn A1s....I guess it depends what era you are wanting to do then.....if BR with the lower front to the tender, I'd say a Flush Darlington Bachmann A1 tender would do.

It is the LNER version being built. Tenders were not cut down until 1948 even then only a scale 2mm

I know yours is LNER Mick my response was more aimed at Simon as I guessed his would be a BR one.

Why exactly were they cut down?

Looking forward to another apple green A2 Mick!

[mick b]

Compaints of draughts by the crews

[mick b]

Brassmaster detail etches added to the Hornby A3 and A4 Locos

A4 very tight fit on the front only useable with Gibson or similar bogie wheels as the hornby wheels foul the Guard irons. Never used anymore of the sheet other then the large rear footplate supports see the A3 pics the smaller version projected out from the sides of the locos. The reversing road had no means of obvious fixing and the Ashpan lever was vitually id to the hornby version and not worth the hassle of fitting as where other minute parts IMHO on a working engine.
Photos have lightened to enable the parts to be more visible.

Inside view , instructions say glue this part in. didnt like that idea as had to be removed a number of times to ensure it fitted correctly. The mounting screws heads were turned down to allow them to fit.

[mick b]

A3

Ionly used the Reversing Lever on the correct side, as Hornby fitted to the wrong side, the rear footplate supports and the ashpan lever.
The front detail etches will not fit with the Hornby wheels and as they are lined much more important to me than background detail.
Again a number of tiny detail etches not used

[mick b]

Progress on Lord President. Tender is ready for lining.

[2002EarlMarischal]

Coming along really well Mick - thanks for posting more pics!

Interesting comments regarding the Brassmasters bits. When I picked the set up for Lord President it set me thinking about all my A1s, A3s and A4s, but I think I'll leave them be!

[S.A.C. Martin]

Silly question time (Sorry Mick!)

How do you get such an even cut out of the A4 bodyshells for the cabs?

[mick b]

Not a problem

First I built the bottom of the cab up square after removing the A4 footplate which leaves a missing triangle shape. Fill the gap with glued plastikard and file square once set . This must be correct or the cab will always be crooked.

Cut the cab off the A4 boiler leaving about 5mm in front of join between firebox and cab. Line up with A2 boiler which is fixed to the footplate. Just keep cutting/filing back both cab and boiler until you achieve the best possible join between the two parts.
Dont attempt to make a perfect match because they will never meet along the whole joint. Ensure cab is square and in line with the rear of the A2 footplate.
Once this is done glue both parts together at contact points. Hold Cab in place overnight using masking tape and allow to bond.
Next day beef up joint from inside with suitable size glued microstrip. Fill any gaps on the front with glued pieces of plastikard. Again leave overnight to set.
Then after filling gaps with filler (Squadron putty) start rubbing back with wet and dry until you get a goodish joint.
Then a light coat of primer to show any faults as per above pictures which are after the fill and rub down again stage.
Next another light coat of primer hopefully for the last rub down


Once happy all the detail parts etc can go on prior to top coat

Simples

For the first time I have timed the build of a model. So far Ten hours.

[S.A.C. Martin]

Thanks Mick for the tip. I'll have to look at my spare a4 bodyshells carefully. I can confirm the original tender drive bodyshell is much larger, but the Railroad body has the same basic dimensions of the super detail one, minus the detailing.