That reminds me of a job I keep meaning to do on my own A2/3 . As the image I sent you last night shows, I did add some "flanges" to fill the gap where the pipe covers would join the smokebox on Simon's loco. I suppose a clearance at the end of the pipe does at least ensure that the smokebox immediately sits down fully into the saddle, saving you the trouble of looking for, and filing off, a possible cause of a tight fitmick b wrote:Only part to need any slight work was the steam pipes both falling short a layer of shaped plastikard soon took up the gap.
Micks 4mm LNER Models
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Re: LNER Models
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Re: LNER Models
Not a problem to cure either way
Re: LNER Models
It is literally the only thing holding me back from ordering the parts from you Graeme, and doing an A2/2 myself - the valve gear. The whole process of making the valve gear and attaching it to the chassis absolutely terrifies me I reckon I could do the body, and the running plate, but the chassis mods are beyond my skills I fear.
I think Bachmann may have missed a trick in not making the A2 chassis more capable of simply plugging in different cylinders and a different valve gear set, along with body/cab and running plate. The A2/3s that have been made really look the part, and I think when it's done, Mick, 60506 will do too!
I think Bachmann may have missed a trick in not making the A2 chassis more capable of simply plugging in different cylinders and a different valve gear set, along with body/cab and running plate. The A2/3s that have been made really look the part, and I think when it's done, Mick, 60506 will do too!
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Re: LNER Models
G'Day Gents
Looking good Mick, and now that you've removed the smoke deflectors, really starting to look like the 'Wolf'.
Always liked the look of these Pacifics, with there long smokeboxes and tiny wind/wing/smoke deflectors.
manna
Looking good Mick, and now that you've removed the smoke deflectors, really starting to look like the 'Wolf'.
Always liked the look of these Pacifics, with there long smokeboxes and tiny wind/wing/smoke deflectors.
manna
EDGWARE GN, Steam in the Suburbs.
Re: LNER Models
506 please none of that BR 60 suffix nonsense here
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Re: LNER Models
No sooner said than done. My steam pipes no longer end in mid-air.....Atlantic 3279 wrote:That reminds me of a job I keep meaning to do on my own A2/3
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Re: LNER Models
I wonder if they ever envisaged even making an A2 when they did the A1? I thought it highly unlikely that they'd make one at the time. Had they seen / planned that far ahead, they could have saved themselves some later work there too. I suppose that as a "general" model railway manufacturer they are hardly likely to be on a planned, step by step mission to produce all of the post-1943 LNER Pacifics (even if some of us wish they were) so they won't be thinking about it with the clarity that we might as an LNER dedicated group.S.A.C. Martin wrote:I think Bachmann may have missed a trick in not making the A2 chassis more capable of simply plugging in different cylinders and a different valve gear set, along with body/cab and running plate.
It was only when Blink Bonny opened my eyes to the possibility that I realised the scope for doing the A1/1 using some of the A2/3 parts and ideas, so I can't criticise Bachmann for not seeing (or not catering for) all of the options.
I'll clear off Mick's space now.........
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Re: LNER Models
Fair enough Mick!mick b wrote:506 please none of that BR 60 suffix nonsense here
Re: LNER Models
The Wolf ready for paint. Nothing is screwed down just been tested to ensure it goes around curves, which I am please it does first time The resin front frames can now be fitted and the Footplate Oil Lubricators.
Valve Gear was much easier than expected.
Due to my clumsiness I managed to break one return crank which has now been replaced. This was due to a rivet being too short. I also never made the new cut in the wheel boss wide enough to alow the crank to face left. As a result the tiny pins on the rear of the crank broke off when the retaining screw was tightened.
Cylinders
Ensure you slot the top of the slidebar deep enough. I didnt as a result the Cylinders wouldnt lay correctly. Once filed deep enough no problem.
Valve Gear was much easier than expected.
Due to my clumsiness I managed to break one return crank which has now been replaced. This was due to a rivet being too short. I also never made the new cut in the wheel boss wide enough to alow the crank to face left. As a result the tiny pins on the rear of the crank broke off when the retaining screw was tightened.
Cylinders
Ensure you slot the top of the slidebar deep enough. I didnt as a result the Cylinders wouldnt lay correctly. Once filed deep enough no problem.
Last edited by mick b on Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: LNER Models
Bachmann A H Peppercorn now with correctly painted Handrails and Sand fillers. Etched work plates added and finished in Satin Varnish to get rid of the awful original shiny finish.
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Re: LNER Models
Ay up!
They're looking good. Looking forward to seeing the Wolf in Apple Green clothing!
They're looking good. Looking forward to seeing the Wolf in Apple Green clothing!
If I ain't here, I'm in Bilston, scoffing decent chips at last!!!!
Re: LNER Models
Looking terrific Mick. Looking forward to seeing the wolf complete.
Just one question - how have you done your new washout plugs?
Just one question - how have you done your new washout plugs?
Re: LNER Models
Martin Finney etches available as spares
Re: LNER Models
Thanks Mick, much appreciated.mick b wrote:Martin Finney etches available as spares
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Re: LNER Models
As I posted in my own thread, before looking here:
"Aha! Good, you got the wing-plate smoke deflectors to go on successfully. The improved sides to the visible saddle look good too. Do I even spy small grab-loop handrails down near the front of the running plate? Drilled lifting holes in the frames, anti-carboniser and pipework represented on smokebox, sand fillers in the correct new places. Pretty thorough!"
Yes, it is essential to get a deep enough notch in the top rear corner of the original slidebars, otherwise you get too much cylinder inclination, and the con-rods knock against the too-low rear ends of the slidebars.
DMR also do good etched oval covers on the firebox, sold as separate spares, not only in the full kits.
"Aha! Good, you got the wing-plate smoke deflectors to go on successfully. The improved sides to the visible saddle look good too. Do I even spy small grab-loop handrails down near the front of the running plate? Drilled lifting holes in the frames, anti-carboniser and pipework represented on smokebox, sand fillers in the correct new places. Pretty thorough!"
Yes, it is essential to get a deep enough notch in the top rear corner of the original slidebars, otherwise you get too much cylinder inclination, and the con-rods knock against the too-low rear ends of the slidebars.
DMR also do good etched oval covers on the firebox, sold as separate spares, not only in the full kits.
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.