Don't forget to reduce the 4-pane door lights to 2 vertical panes What will you do about the verandah outer ends, which had horizontal planking? I don't think a couple of millimetres is going to make a big difference but, in this conversion, the thought did occur to me that you might actually have been better off (in some ways) by starting with the old Rovex/Triang NE Brake Van....
Here's a close up of the underframe. I've sliced off most of the upper lip of the channel solebars and "plated" over the moulded details within with plain plastic. At the same time I cut away the channel like parts of the ends of the headstocks, cleaned moulding seams from their faces, and put a "bottom corner chamfer" onto the ends of the remaining plain beams. Faces of the axlebox covers have been pared off ready for adding a more suitable shape of overlay. One support for the footboards has been cut away - it appeared only on one side of the moulding and I suspect it was a misinterpretation of the brake piston rod in any case.......
Body side with moulded handrails cleaned off, holes for new wire ones drilled, planking scribed in where originally left plain for application of numerals or where handrails had been removed, and the pressed steel style ducket removed. This was far too solid to yield quickly to a coarse file or razor saw, so I drilled linked holes near its edges and then gouged it out with side-cutters before tidying up with a file.
End after removal of lamp brackets and seam on headstock:
Last edited by Atlantic 3279 on Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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65447 wrote:Don't forget to reduce the 4-pane door lights to 2 vertical panes What will you do about the verandah outer ends, which had horizontal planking? I don't think a couple of millimetres is going to make a big difference but, in this conversion, the thought did occur to me that you might actually have been better off (in some ways) by starting with the old Rovex/Triang NE Brake Van....
Fortunately an image in Mr Tatlow's book shows a van with vertical planking on the outer faces of the outer ends, so added stanchions, correctly arranged lamp irons, and proper pattern buffers should suffice.
Isn't the Rovex moulding somewhat large?
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Yes, those changes to the door panes must be remembered when I do the inner ends and the roof, next on my list but who knows when. There may be a Christmas social event to attend this evening.
Last edited by Atlantic 3279 on Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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I was surprised to read, in a borrowed copy of Ian Sadler's "Northe Eastern Railway Brake Vans" that the V4 van underframes were steel channel. They really don't look like steel channel in the main photo that I have been working from, as there's definitely no botton lip visible. Maybe the channels were turned inwards rather than outwards??? It makes no difference to the structural conversion of the model, thank goodness, but it may affect the question of what colour to paint the solebars. I think they look body-colour in Tatlow's LNER period photos, but that could just be due to muck, as steel underframes should be all black . Mr Sadler doesn't mention LNER painting, and he doesn't nail his colours to the mast on the amtter of North Eastern solebar colour as far as I can so far see. He talks about "above the solebar" and "below the solebar", but stays silent on the solebar itself.
Anyway...... work has progressed somewhat today. I'm too weary and have too little time at present to describe methods blow by blow, so pictures will have to do (below). I'll add methods or answer specific questions later. Some of the limitations are beginning to reveal themselves in the model now, but I think in the end the result is likely to be good enough:
Last edited by Atlantic 3279 on Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Filing the roof to thin the egdes and increase the curvature
With thin roof overlay, duckets and basic unshaped stanchions added, plus one or two other bits. Well on the way to a V4. The unwanted extra length shows up more than I hoped because I failed to realise that with the roof edges thinned down the height to the roof edge would then be less than scale. I hope the overall proportions will improve a bit if I change the wheels to correct, larger, spoked ones.
Bye for now and Merry Christmas all.
Last edited by Atlantic 3279 on Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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I hope I'm not breaking any rules or flying in the face of site convention if I just mention that if anybody wants my spare, mint, Bachmann O4 loco body with cylinders etc and box, a look at a well known auction site may now be advisable.
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I'm still trying to decide whether my attempt at a V4 brake van is going to look short enough, and whether the extra effort involved in taking out 2mm amidships would be justified. As an illustration of what would be achieved, I've shortened the broadside image of the van and posted it below for comparison with the original full length image, which I have transplanted from my earlier posting.
Does it make a big or crucial difference?
Original length:
Shorter:
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What will you do about the verandah outer ends, which had horizontal planking? I don't think a couple of millimetres is going to make a big difference but, in this conversion, the thought did occur to me that you might actually have been better off (in some ways) by starting with the old Rovex/Triang NE Brake Van.... 
! ) to a plastic body!