Atlantic's works: Portable layout - Scenic details next

[Atlantic 3279]

Thanks 3801, I did a similar colour image manipulation exercise myself but I never got around to posting the result up on here. You've saved me the trouble!

[69843]

No, thank YOU for inspiring me to manipulate loco's this way.

Hint: Next one is big, slow and powerful + A4

see if you can figure this out

3801

[69843]

AND HERE IT IS!!!


3801

[Bill Bedford]

AND HERE IT IS!!!

I really don't think you have understood how a garratt works............

[69843]

Hi bill.

This is what I call a "fun" piece of artwork. It serves no real purpose, apart from fun and a very far fetched might have been unlike the Bullied 2-8-2.

Speaking of the above here is the updated version

[Atlantic 3279]

I assumed that the Bulleid bruiser would have to have a more compact coupled wheelbase to stand any hope of taking to the tracks, especially (I gather) on the approaches to Waterloo or Dover Marine:

Should we return to matters LNER now?

[69843]

Here are some nice sounding REAL concepts for the LNER.

"...a Gresley "Cock-o' the North" Pacific.....and a Gresley 4-8-2 depicted in BR blue (surely Thompson would have converted into something smaller before the change of livery).

The locomotives illustrated include a Gresley design for a 2-8-2T to work in the Nottinghamshire coalfield which it can be stated categorically originated in a paper by Spencer presented to a meeting of the Institution of Locomotive Engineers in 1947, although Barnes quotes the excellent RCTS series on LNER locomotives as his source. Other designs, such as an articulated 2-6-4-4 developed from the K3 2-6-0 and a Pacific derived from Cock o' the North, complete with rotary cam valve gear, definitely stem from the same primary source. In relation to the many pitfalls which beset the amateur commentator Barnes cannot be faulted. Most of his paintings do achieve an impression of what the locomotives might have looked like in service."

These are from the Robin Barnes book Locomotives that never were: some 20th century British projects.

If you want the full list and review, go to this site:
http://www.steamindex.com/library/barnes.htm

unfortunatally this has no pictures on the page (but found one of the pacific somewhere else)

My favourite sounding has to be the C'otN Pacific. Wouldn't it have been nice to see these come down the line.....

3801

[Atlantic 3279]

You've not yet found my model of that might-have-been P10 2-8-2T further back in these pages then? One of our number, "Saint Johnstoun" has put together some nicely detailed drawings that put flesh on the bones of the basic outline diagrams of many of the LNER's projected but never built locos. These include the articulated super-K3 and the rotary valve-gear pacific that you mention.
Will I ever see a Peppercorn 4-8-4 in model form, or perhaps a layout running convincing, well-researched interpretations of the twin-unit diesels that the LNER would have had on the main line in the late 1940s but for nationalisation?

[69843]

Found the P10 a while back, showed a friend, and he said "so what, it's a standard Hornby loco"

Didn't he turn red when I showed him the build pictures!!!

Found Saint Johnstoun and his work, can't believe these aren't real. will have to try and make these ( or maybe get you to make them! )

take care, and good luck modelling.

[Saint Johnstoun]

I've never seen any details of the proposed LNER diesels or indeed the proposed railcars suggested after the loan of one of the EWR ones. IF there were some I could soon rattle up some graphics.

[Atlantic 3279]

Loch Long again, but at last with cylinder drains and a completed livery job. What a horror when I first sprayed on a full "unifying" coat of very thoroughly stirred, shaken, and adequately thinned Humbrol satin varnish - it dried leaving loco and tender covered in a rough rash of raised pimples of flatting agent that hadn't dispersed into the film of paint! The whole thing looked dreadful in bright light and felt like the side of a matchbox! Job done in warm, dry, clean conditions with a decent quality airbrush too . Once it was hard-dry I lightly scraped the whole surface with the edge of a piece of plastikard, cleaned off the particles, then went over the lot with a light coat of thinned satin varnish applied by brush, which "worked the flatting agent into the coat" or so I presume.....
The day was saved, but I've told "the Boss" at Hornby of my dismay at the performance of the Humbrol varnish, and of my latest tin of satin black which is still soft and slightly sticky a full 24 hours after brush application, again despite good application and drying conditions!

[coachmann]

Glad you were able to save the situation after all the work you put into the K4. I don't trust Humbrol varnish at all, not that I'd ever use it, but a friend had similar experiences to you with matt varnish and had to look for something more reliable in the end.

[Atlantic 3279]

A bit of a late reply to the above remark, but thanks for the thought. I was somewhat relieved to have pulled the fat out the fire, to say the least.

Just to show that I haven't been resting on my posterior and merely gossipping instead of model making for the last three weeks, here (even if this theme is now "old hat") are the underpinnings of another pair of W1 conversions. Super detail based version nearest, Railroad equivalent to the rear. These are both being built to negotiate trainset track, hence the flangeless wheels in the rear end of the rear bogie, which isn't in fact suspended like a bogie at all. In a nutshell it is a pony or bissel truck but with two axles, a "proper" one with flanged wheels at the front, and those dummies at the rear where the demand for sideways displacement is greater than the amount available within the outside frames. On trial, this arrangement does a reasonable cosmetic job of keeping the flangeless rear wheels more-or-less on the rail heads both on straights and curves.

[mick b]

Graeme
Where have you sourced the flangeless wheels from please. I need some for my Wills W1 despite numerous attempts I have never succeded in getting the rear truck to go round curves.

thanks Mick

[Atlantic 3279]

I used some "plain" rather than Nickel-tyred Romford/Markits 12mm spoked bogie wheels, pulled one wheel off and mounted the axle plus remaining wheel in my electric drill (suitably clamped in the workbench) and turned the flange off by LIGHTLY applying a file. Too much vigour either heats the wheel and melts the insulating bush, or pulls it loose so that it spins uselessly on the axle. One side done, I then reversed the arrangement and turned off the other flange. I also slightly rounded the shoulders of the tyre to ease the passage of the flangeless wheel over any slightly raised oblique rails in crossings etc.

I've no idea if you can do it to a Nickel tyred wheel. Only way to find out is to try.

I suppose you could be more thorough / careful and rather than risk the bush by turning the wheel on the axle, press out both the axle and the bush and then turn the wheel on a suitable mandrel.