A suitably impressive result Mick . A very neat and tidy finish.
I take it that the wheel quartering is actually spot-on. How much clearance between crankpins and holes in the rods do you have? I assume this to be the reason for the inclined coupling rod. Having seen this on other four-coupled models, or locos with jointed rods, I've always assumed that I should try to avoid opening up clearances beyond the absolute minimum on my locos. To my great relief, when I've had to go further than I really wanted I seem to have been lucky enough to get away with it (so far) without finishing up with significant tilting, see-sawing or snaking motion of the rods
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Well spotted the gears have stripped/jammed and I await delievery of a new a High Level Gear Box and a Mashima to replace the worn out 20 year old Romford gears (they have lost a couple of teeth) and a D11.
Should be a very simple change as only the front wheels need to come off to change to a new modern set up. Rods are jammed in picture, I wont strip chassis until i have built the new Gearbox.
Looks better on this side
cheers
Mick
Last edited by mick b on Sat Sep 04, 2010 11:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hoppers done . I have added light weathering as they would have been fairly new when in LNER Ownership.Has anyone seen a photo in LNER days I have only found ex works pictures.
Full Bradwell underframe version
Other with minor details the Bradwell etch provides
PGBerrie wrote:Nice photograph of the insides -I just finished three in N gauge, but could not find a photograph of the insides, so I left them grimy grey.
Peter
There is some grey on the insides of mine too. I wouldnt think it would have lasted long once in use
mick b wrote:Splashers are from Bill Bedford as a Brass etching accesory.
I missed that when you first posted it - and there was I, even more deeply impressed by the thought that you had very patiently and carefully cut and filed, or otherwise cleverly formed the beadings from sheet or strip. Still very nice, no matter how they were achieved.
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
If you look at my model of Ravens LNER A2 I did!! I formed them from Brass wire shaped into curves and then hammered flat with a Pin Hammer. A light clean up with a needle file to finish. It was surprisingly easy to do .
I recomend the etch as it has numerous radius theron and is cheap too !!
IAK wrote:Nice "Dapwells" mon
How fiddly is the full underframe?
I've a round half dozen pulling tongues at me frae a box in the workshop...................
One word VERY !!
Its a very good etch and the Hopper Body fitted first time. The instructions caught me out a couple of times but I got there in the end.
IAK wrote:Nice "Dapwells" mon
How fiddly is the full underframe?
I've a round half dozen pulling tongues at me frae a box in the workshop...................
One word VERY !!
Its a very good etch and the Hopper Body fitted first time. The instructions caught me out a couple of times but I got there in the end.
Ahem...
So I'd better get the burn-eze ready then... And read the instructions with care
Five Dapols and a Parkside to play with, PS108 of course.
It always seems a shame to make Dave Bradwells stuff mind, the etches are works of art
and then the last of my Silver Jubilee Coaches the Kitchen Triplet Set.
I have also just made a new chassis for my old Geo Norton G5 (now LRM which maybe different/updated). I have never managed to get the thing to run with its compensated chassis. I bought a Alexander chassis etch with a simple one spring supporting the rear end between the bogie and frame. Result perfect running!! I model OO , so I as many others say compensation isnt needed. I think this proves my viewpoint on that.
I had to cut the top of the chassis level as the G5 has a cab floor to get it to fit, this was a two minute job. I presume the Alexander version of the G5 either doesnt have a cab floor or its a different shape from the Norton kit. I havent posted pictures as didnt think it would be of interest?
. A very neat and tidy finish.
