I deliberately left a couple of pipe runs off the K4, thinking that I would add these more easily after doing the lining, if I could then be bothered. As I started to apply transfers I spotted a couple of other points, and I'm slightly surprised that nobody else has been vigilant enough and bold enough to pull me up. No front loco steps, no overlapping coping plate around the upper sides of the tender . Coping now added, steps will follow.
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Progress towards a livery for Loch Long, despite the world's best endeavours to steal my time and sap my willpower....
Still some defects to remedy, and no front steps, and no lining to cab front, cab window frames, cab steps and tender u/frame, but I think these two pictures give the general flavour - although they are not very well lit I'm afraid.
Once this is done I really MUST turn my attention in earnest to the completion of a couple of jobs for other modellers
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Thanks Mick - so far all lining is from Modelmaster sheet No 4000. Can be very neat but also very slow/fiddly to coax into place and annoyingly non-adherent to even fairly shiny surfaces, until sealed down with varnish. At least those slow fiddly adjustments do give you time to get it exactly where you want it, which sometimes can be a challenge with HMRS Pressfix as you are judging alignment of that whilst looking through a not very translucent backing paper! With Modelmaster it is just the transfer and its perfectly tranparent carrier film. In some ways I'd rather do the panels, steps, running plate edges etc with a bow pen, for speed, and just use the transfers for boiler bands or places where the pen won't go.
The letters and numbers are Pressfix.
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Graeme
I have never got on with their transfers I find them far too wide , perhaps they have upgraded them because your look finer? I also found they dont like laying down too.
I have started on my D20 today and have finally succeded in getting my Bob Moore pen too work after many attempts in the past. I have done one side and both axlebox areas on the Tender in about a hour and very pleased with the results. I will use HMRS for the boiler bands and main tender and loco footplate straight lining areas ( I am not that brave !!) in due course.
No new photos until I set up some decent lighting, but I have at last finished the lining on the K4, made and fitted front steps, and following a belated decision I've managed to lower the boiler a little more. I think the lattter has significantly improved the appearance, but it was a labour intensive (and thought intensive) process. Not only did I have to trim a little more off the base of the firebox, I had to internally thin its lower sides a little more, also ease the slot under the boiler barrel and the square hole under the smokebox, file a bit more off the intact piece of boiler-bottom just behind the smokebox, trim off all projections below the safety valves and whistle, then finally re-locate the motor leads so that the firebox top could sit virtually in contact with the motor. The leads had originally passed over the top of the motor, but I found them just long enough to be tucked and taped into the recess between motor and cradle (along the bottom and front edges of the motor) so that they neither take up space above the motor nor snag on the firebox sides during body fitting/removal.
Last edited by Atlantic 3279 on Fri Aug 27, 2010 5:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Atlantic 3279 wrote: but I found them just long enough to be tucked and taped into the recess between motor and cradle (along the bottom and front edges of the motor) so that they neither take up space above the motor nor snag on the firebox sides during body fitting/removal.
I love it when a plan comes together.
Looking good as always Graeme. I promise I'll have my modelling gear out just as soon as I have somewhere set up. Moving house is apparently disruptive to the creative process.
What do you get when you cut an avocado into 6.022 x10^23 pieces?
I was glad to find on studying the best available photo of a green liveried K4 in the genuine LNER period that the cab front lining was not additionally complicated by lining around the spectacles and the cab-boiler joint, as I'm sure it was on some classes! I've therefore followed that slightly simplified plan for the lined black livery on Loch Long, as revealed in my third image below. Virtually all of the superstructure lining was completed with bits and pieces of the Modelmaster sheet. Footsteps, cab side windows, and tender underframe have been tackled with bow-pen. Only the intense close-up scrutiny possible in these photos taken in strong light reveals the mismatch between the definitely red paint used in the bow-pen, and the slighly orangey red of the Modelmaster + residual Bachmann lining.
The nameplates are more of my home-printed stuff, as on the 4-8-2.
As you may be able to see, I still have to add some front main guard irons, coupling and vacuum pipe, plus do a final tidy-up and varnish.
And in case Mistahjim doesn't fancy doing that fantasy 2-8-2 Bulleid loco after all, and would rather build an LNER might-have-been, here's an imaginary early Gresley re-build as a "simple" of the large-atlantic derived 2-6-2 compound fast goods loco that Ivatt considered for the GNR in 1907
Edited 14:00 to replace format-disrupting over-size original K4 images (much nicer and clearer as they were) and to add missing drawing.
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No new photos until I set up some decent lighting,
I take mine outdoors....best light around!
The K4 looks pretty dam good. I recommend you practice with your lining pen, as it will serve you better than messing around with transfers. Plain decal paper can be bought from the USA. It is useful for making your own custom lining then cutting it out to fit those awkward parts where a pen won't reach, like cab fronts.
Why is there so much fuss about using transfers in some camps?? They work well and are usually easy to use and give consistent results.
Why flaff about with bow pens when its already made. They are are a pain in the proverbial for me and probably most others.
I have Bob Moore lining pen which is handy for curves on occasions. However it it does not provide consitent lines no matter how much I have tried !!!!
My preference for pen or transfers does fluctuate. If I were a full-time painter I think I would settle on the pen, as the continuous practice in its use would give me consistency of, and confidence in, results. At present I still cannot produce such thin and even lines by pen as I can with transfers, unless mood, materials and working conditions are all fully on my side, so I often default to transfers for the most visible parts of the lining.
Today I've sorted out the missing fittings on and below the buffer beam, and tidied up minor mishaps with the lining. I've also tackled one job that I noticed needed doing a couple of days ago but hadn't revealed to you all: To my horror, only when nicely painted up could I see that the straps on the smokebox door weren't quite level, and initially all careful attempts to pop it out of the barrel were solidly resisted by the bead of epoxy with which I had stuck it in place. This morning, after I had scraped and peeled away some of the epoxy from the inside of the joint, it finally showed willingness to part, and the door came out without detroying details or large amounts of paintwork. It is now back in, straight, and a quick repaint of the rim of the door and the front ring of the smokebox has concealed my sins!
I've also replaced the brake pull rods for the tender with some 0.7mm brass wire. As I had more or less expected, the re-joined plastic ones had not resisted much handling.
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Why is there so much fuss about using transfers in some camps?? They work well and are usually easy to use and give consistent results. Why flaff about with bow pens when its already made.
I wonder if it is only the British that decry skills as if it were a virtue....
Larry
Decry wasnt the message, I have nothing against whatever method people use to create their models.
I was simply saying why use a method ,when there is something simpler , generally more effective, consistent and cheaper too for most modellers.
While I am here I had a change of plan re the D20, as the HMRS Lining was too fine in this case, I have also used the Modelmaster Decals . They have laid down nicely with a sealing layer of Games Workshop Satin Varnish. Once its all put back together , I will post some pics on my LNER Model thread. I found some D20 pictures in a book I recomended LNER Locos in Colour 1936-1948 by White and Johnston. This shows the Red Lining as very prominent and appears much wider than the 1/4 inch wide lining I had believed the LNER used on their locos.
Whilst neither the illumination nor the permissible image size for this forum fully reveals the result, the lining debate prompts me to re-post this image of my K3/1, completed about two and half years ago. Save for the boiler bands this has ALL bow-pen lining. Whilst it does preve that I CAN do it to a reasonable standard in the right circumstances*, the lining isn't quite as fine and as even as transfers on those long runs that can be critically scrutinised, such as the horizontals on the tender sides. I think it becomes perfectly acceptable on a lightly weathered loco, but wouldn't quite do as a so called ex-works finish.
*In this case the "right circumstances" weren't quite what one would normally think of, as the last quarter of an hour or so of work was done whilst my brother-in-law sat waiting, slightly impatiently, for me to go and play snooker with him! I can hardly imagine that in general I work better when I have less time to worry about my results!!!
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. Coping now added, steps will follow.
