Signalling

[chaz harrison]

Thanks for your comments, Eddy.

The layout you describe sounds like a lot of fun, a proper railway with realistic operating practices! However I'm not sure I would want to let sand get anywhere near my models.

I work in 7mm for myself but I have made working signals in 2mm, 3mm (and 16mm!) for others. When I built a two arm lattice post in 3mm I found that many of the problems and techniques were the same as 7mm - the chief difference (obviously) being the size and delicacy. For instance I used 0.3mm wire for the pull wires, rather than my usual 0.5mm and had to be very careful opening out the holes in the arms to take this, there is so little metal in the etched arms. I had to use 4mm lattice posts as the 3mm Society had run out of etches. I compared a 4mm etch with a 3mm and found very little difference in size. They are both very delicate and easy to distort. Even filing off the tabs presents quite a challenge.

I got "bitten by the bug" making signals. Once I had made my first working signal (the GNR somersault attached) I really wanted to do more. So my layout has 12 semaphore arms and 3 ground dollies. There are also 9 "virtual signals". These are not modelled as they would be standing on a hinged sector plate which is part of the fiddle yard. Their indications are "repeated" on a panel above the layout as they might have been in a signal box.

There are very few moves on my layout which are not signalled. Because I can't see the point in signalling to myself, the layout is only operated when a second operator visits. One is signalman, the other is driver. Whilst there is a lot of banter and good natured joshing, the signals are used, as on the prototype, to control the movement of trains. Woe betide a driver who does a SPAD or a signalman who forgets to pull off the "board"!

Chaz

[Boris]

I don't think the signal at Loughbrough was left without an arm because of clearance.
There was a multi armed signal at the end of the platform at Guide Bridge towards Manchaster which had very short arms but was still a proper signal.
If my [very old] memory serves me right I thing the spectacles were in the centre of the short arms.

[chaz harrison]

I don't think the signal at Loughbrough was left without an arm because of clearance.
There was a multi armed signal at the end of the platform at Guide Bridge towards Manchaster which had very short arms but was still a proper signal.
If my [very old] memory serves me right I thing the spectacles were in the centre of the short arms.

Boris, yes, on reflection I'm sure you are right! And your memory is still good - see attached snap (copied from an H C Casserley album).

What a superb model those signals would make. Any takers?

Come to think of it there was a small group of signals under a wide road bridge on the LSWR in the London area (Wimbledon?). It was so dark under the bridge the S & T dept hadn't bothered to put the arms on, drivers would only see the illuminated spectacles.

Chaz

[Boris]

Wow, my memory was right, not bad after 52 years.

[TonyM]

Thank you all for your helpful replies. I am going to attempt to make some colour light signals using micro LEDs and see how they turn out. I am also experimenting with fibre optics but they are fragile and do not like sharp bends.
I always have tail lamps on all my trains and nearly always have the correct head lamp code. Some of my locos have had the lamps fixed with super glue. I am trying to make the lamps interchangeable by using fine wire fixed through the footplate/buffer beam and drilling the base if the lamps and fixing with tacky glue so that they are removable and transferable but as I am working in N and my sight is failing it does not always work as planned but I am persevering. Working semaphore signals have got me beat so I shall go with the LEDs. It may cause some anachronisms but hey its my railway. Again thanks for the comments and help.
TonyM

[chaz harrison]

tonyM,

Good for you. Any signals are better than none!

Can I suggest when you have your first working signal you do an experiment with some different value series resistors for your LEds? Colour light signals can look good but the ones I see at exhibitions are often far too bright. I would suggest starting with 1K0 and increasing the value until you get a convincing brightness. I am assuming a 12v supply. Resistors are so cheap you could buy a few values to check out the effect. You could also set up a variable resistor to adjust the value but it would be best to put a fixed resistor (say 470R) in series with it so that you don't accidentally take the value too low, which might destroy the LED.

Chaz

[redtoon1892]

Not L.N.E.R. but may be of interest. these are at Llandudno.

[chaz harrison]

Useful pics, redtoon.

That gantry is quite definitely LMS, and nothing like my ex-GNR style model. Nice though.

[redtoon1892]

This site of 11 pages is a L.N.E.R. modellers dream.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=47199