Hornby LNER Pacifics Discussion

[S.A.C. Martin]

I feel like you have largely missed the point of the question.

I'm only 20, very soon to be 21, with nowhere near the skill level other users on this forum have, for that matter my total number of usable LNER locos comes to 1, and that's just an N2. The most I feel confident with my current skill level in doing is fitting a double chimney (if the single is removable) and smoke deflectors. I don't feel confident that I can totally disassemble the bodyshell from a model that currently sells brand new for £160 with the promise that it will look better than when it was fresh out the box.

What I need is a hornby A3 that, mould/assembly issues aside, represents an A3 in it's final condition. I'm not fussed over whether the running board is totally straight or if the boiler is a perfect fit.

the point is will people look at the finished post-war LNER green livery model regardless of defects and go "that's a BR A3 in apple green"?

furthermore, can the models I linked above be modified with the above stated fitting of double chimney and smoke deflectors, to represent an A3 in its final form?

that was what I originally asked. not whether the bodyshell is perfectly moulded.

I would hardly call myself a good modeller, but the Railroad Flying Scotsman represents an excellent starting point for young modellers to try out their skills on. I used it to create no.97 Humorist as a prototype for the fleet of A10s and A3s I have been making.





Humorist

ECML Pacifics

An alternative, should you wish it. The odds and sods which I bought to create these models added up to around £30 across the eight Pacifics. I have finished four of them now - three wartime black, and Humorist in apple green. The last four are in the final stages before painting, more or less.

[Nova]

I feel like you have largely missed the point of the question.

I'm only 20, very soon to be 21, with nowhere near the skill level other users on this forum have, for that matter my total number of usable LNER locos comes to 1, and that's just an N2. The most I feel confident with my current skill level in doing is fitting a double chimney (if the single is removable) and smoke deflectors. I don't feel confident that I can totally disassemble the bodyshell from a model that currently sells brand new for £160 with the promise that it will look better than when it was fresh out the box.

What I need is a hornby A3 that, mould/assembly issues aside, represents an A3 in it's final condition. I'm not fussed over whether the running board is totally straight or if the boiler is a perfect fit.

the point is will people look at the finished post-war LNER green livery model regardless of defects and go "that's a BR A3 in apple green"?

furthermore, can the models I linked above be modified with the above stated fitting of double chimney and smoke deflectors, to represent an A3 in its final form?

that was what I originally asked. not whether the bodyshell is perfectly moulded.

I would hardly call myself a good modeller, but the Railroad Flying Scotsman represents an excellent starting point for young modellers to try out their skills on. I used it to create no.97 Humorist as a prototype for the fleet of A10s and A3s I have been making.





Humorist

ECML Pacifics

An alternative, should you wish it. The odds and sods which I bought to create these models added up to around £30 across the eight Pacifics. I have finished four of them now - three wartime black, and Humorist in apple green. The last four are in the final stages before painting, more or less.

I'll attempt such a conversion at some point, but I'd rather have my first A3 be one of the glorious super detail models that only require the addition of a double chimney and smoke deflectors (plus brassmasters details) and a new coat of paint, rather than a serious conversion job in the case of the railroad model.


besides, I'll now be getting a Bachmann A2 in LNER livery, makes things simpler in the short run. the A3 can come at a later date

[LNER4489]

I am looking for advice on an A1 to A3 conversion I am working on.
I was about to place the very nice Graeme King resin superheater header covers.
Only then did I realise the A1 hand rail knob obstructs the correct position of the cover.

Here it is just resting loosely. A Hornby right hand drive as built A3 behind.
It is hard to see in the small photo but clearer in the expanded version.

Looking at photos of the real thing it seems that the the hand rail knob was moved a few inches forwards on the A1s converted to A3s, to a similar position to where it is on the as built A3s.

I am a bit reluctant to try to extract the existing hand rail knob, make a new hole exactly in line with the others, and fill the old hole and paint.
So I was considering one of two compromises and am wondering which might look more acceptable; either positioning the covers slightly too high, or filing a small notch in the edge of the resin casting and hoping the notch disappears in the shadows and visual "noise" of the hand rail, and also hoping I dont crack the resin casting while filing !

I wondered if any one had considered either kluge and what the advice may be.

Also are there any good solutions for adding the extra upper wash out plug on each side of the firebox for the higher pressure boiler ?
I dont want to do a repaint as I would never get close to as good as the Hornby finish and lining.

Many thanks, Tom

[nzpaul]

If I was going to do that, I'd try to shift the handrail knob. Try a bit of tape either side of the knob and get in there with some needle nose pliers and see if it will come out without too much force. Then drill and relocate. If it snaps off, slide it forward and put a spot of glue on it to keep it still. With the cover properly located, I'm not sure that there's going to be much of a hole to fill and the handrail will still be secured by the first and third knobs. If you try to fudge it, you'll just kick yourself later. If it turns to custard.......I had nothing to do with it.

Paul

[Atlantic 3279]

I don't think I had noticed that difference in the position of the handrail knobs, but it's a long time since I studied the details.

The handrail knobs in some RTR models seem to be brittle cast metal rather then turned from something malleable/ductile. For removal of factory-fitted, glued-in, tight fit handrail knobs from plastic bodies without running high risk of breaking them off, there's a method that I have used. For safety, the first thing is to put a cut in a small square of thin card at right-angles to one of its edges. This cut allows the piece of card to be slid behind the handrail and around the stalk of the handrail knob, shielding the area of the plastic body around the knob. A slim tool with a forked end, such as needle nosed pliers or a slotted screwdriver can then be slid between the card and the handrail, with its forked ends lying closely each side of the knob. Rather than trying to forcefully lever the knob out of its hole immediately (taking care not to lever the tool down onto breakable features of the model), I then find it very helpful to apply the hot bit of a soldering iron to the outer end of the knob while simultaneous levering very gently on the chosen tool. It is usually very easy to feel the moment when the knob begins to "give", at which point one obviously removes the hot iron and completes the pull.

[LNER4489]

Many thanks Paul and Graeme for the advice and suggestions,
I will see how brave I feel at the weekend !

[LNER4489]

The hand rail knob has now been moved forwards about 6 mm on each side so the superheater header cover can go in the right place.
And no custard ! Thanks for the encouragment Paul. (I had not heard that phrase before).

Graeme, your trick with the soldering iron on the metal hand rail knob worked a treat.
Do you think it softens the plastic or weakens the super glue ?
And thank you for the superheater header castings.

Incidentally Graeme do you think you have any more of the etches that included the narrow smoke defelctors for the A2s ?
Many thanks, Tom

[nzpaul]

Nice job , you'd never know it didn't look like that to start with.

Paul

[Atlantic 3279]

I believe I still have some of the etches that include A2/2 type smokebox top wing plate deflectors, together with full plates for A2/1, A2/3, and Great Northern rebuild, along with R&L hand grate levers. If you want more info Tom, best to send me aPM so that I notice your message.