Overhauling an old A3 and B12

[Mersey508138]

Hi Jim

Your locos paint job is far better than anything I have done recently and top notch on the lining.

Regarding the drilling out of the triang chassis, that could be done with either a bench drill I think its called or by complete stripping the chassis down and mounting the chassis block in a vice although the bench drill would be the best way or dare I say it, an old manual drill with the chassis clamped in place to keep it straight and level but if you're happy with how the locos are running then to be honest I wouldn't worry about it unless the wheels wobble so much that they short out the power.

I noticed in 1 of your photos a H&M Duette power controller and I can definitely say the 2 that I have been using since about 2003 or 2004 have been the best controllers I have ever used on my railway.

[Jim de Griz]

Thanks Mersey

The Duette was original my uncle's and is a good bit older than myself, it has proven itself to be gloriously tough, reliable and flexible.

Steady progress being made now, only a few jobs left to do.

Aside from the white lining on the buffer beam, the lining is pretty much done. For the black around the windows and the red on the frames I resorted to hand painting, but for the rest I used HRMS pressfix.

The brass lining worked better than I expected, certainly makes the B12 look distinctive. One of the things I've enjoyed about this project is the research that has gone with it and all the little details I now notice that I hadn't seen before. From the brass round the splashers, to the double lining on the tender. I also didn't realise that while the buffer beam is red, the buffer mountings are black! I've stood next to both Flying Scotsman and the NYMR B12 and I never noticed that before. (That is still to be corrected on the A3)

The tender frames have had the red lining painted on as best I could as well. It will be interesting to see how visible it is when running. I going to remove the large tension locks and replace them with non-magnetic ones to future proof them for when I finally get round to fitting an auto uncoupling system.

From here there is a bit of neatening up, white lining to add and the numbers on the buffer beams, then its add crew, lamps and reunite body shells with frames. Then onto test running!

Jim de Griz

[Jim de Griz]

A little more progress.

I struggled to get the transfers for the white lining to work, so resorted to hand painting. Its not as neat, but to the naked eye it does the job.

Its the first time I've got the numbers to fit on the buffer plate, more successfully on the A3 than the B12, but still a step in the right direction. To be honest, the numbering is small enough that even with my magnifying glass I'm struggling to make them out.

I'm hoping that once vacuum gear etc is added any imperfections in the lining or numbers will be obscured.

Jim de Griz

[Jim de Griz]

B12 is nearing completion, need to do a full up test before doing the last few painting jobs.

Quite pleased with the results, if I do say so myself.

Jim de Griz

[Atlantic 3279]

Tidy Jim, but your rods are on upside down. I imagine they just need swapping to opposite sides of the loco.

[Mersey508138]

Hi Jim

Well done, a far better job than anything I could do with any of my locos

[Jim de Griz]

Thank you both

And thank you for catching the upside down coupling rods. To be honest, I didn't know they could be upside down, so I would never have caught that mistake. Now corrected!

After some last minute soldering the Flying Scotsman is also ready for her all up test (scheduled for tomorrow)

I had hoped to fit black name plates rather than red, but unfortunately the molded name plate that is part of the chassis is a touch too big for the newer replacements I brought, so for the time being atleast she has kept the 'classic' red plates.

Jim de Griz

[john coffin]

Nice work Jim,
for a future reminder, the block on top of each connecting rod centre is to replicate the oil box, and its cork, so obviously it needs to be so that the cork cannot fall out.

Paul

[Jim de Griz]

Thanks Paul, knowing why will definitely help me remember to check in the future!

All up tests are successful, both happily pull their designated train without issues, the B12 in particular is now a very hot ship and needs a careful hand on the controller!

The local spotters have a new number to put in their books.


One of the drivers for this project was how relatively tawdry my two 'prestige' engines looked compared to the new locomotives I have in lined black. That is no longer an issue.

Thank you everyone who has offered advice, guidance and feedback on this threat. It has definitely helped turn this into a successful project!

Jim de Griz

[Mersey508138]

Hi Jim

Happy to help and ready for more, helping you through your projects was a massive help to calm my mind and focus on your questions and for that I thank you too

[Mercator II]

Great finish

May I ask which brand of applegreen you used and application method?

[Jim de Griz]

Glad to have been any help at all Mersey.

Hi Mercator, no problem at all.

I used two layers of Phoenix Precision Paints P50 G.N.R / L.N.E.R. Loco Green (Doncaster Shade) & Coach Green [Tourist Stock] applied from a spray can, touched up in places with a brush and then covered by two layers of Humbrol satin varnish sprayed over the top.

I like Phoenix Paints to be honest, the colour looks right and after the second coat the coverage is excellent, but they need more careful preparation than an equivalent can/tin of Humbrol paint. The spray can calls for at least 5 minutes of shaking before an application and to allow 24hrs of hardening before the second coat. I can attest that sticking to those timings is very important.

Jim de Griz