The neat result you always seem to achieve Rob!
Years ago, when I formed up the running plate from scratch for my OO P1, I firstly formed two pieces of square brass bar to match a drawing for the full lengths of the valances. I then decided, for the top platform, to side-step the problem of getting the distances between the various bends right, so that I could concentrate on simply getting the shapes of the bends correct. I did that by adding the top platform as a series of separate pieces, curves and flats, with bridging pieces underneath the joints. I doubt that such a method would be popular in a kit, but it gave me the freedom to adjust and trim until everything was just so, without the risk of having to throw away a terminally distorted entire top sheet.
GNR/LNER D2 7mm Scale Test Build
Moderators: 52D, Tom F, Rlangham, Atlantic 3279, Blink Bonny, Saint Johnstoun, richard
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Atlantic 3279
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Re: GNR/LNER D2 7mm Scale Test Build
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
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Robpulham
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Re: GNR/LNER D2 7mm Scale Test Build
Hi Graeme,
I have that joy to come at some point. Like you I plan on scratch building a P1 using a Hachette FS boiler and cab as the basis.
I have that joy to come at some point. Like you I plan on scratch building a P1 using a Hachette FS boiler and cab as the basis.
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Robpulham
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 1721
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:54 pm
- Location: Lower Wensleydale
- Contact:
Re: GNR/LNER D2 7mm Scale Test Build
I did the sub assembly a bit out of sequence to the instructions, purely because I am fitting this in between a couple of other builds and I wanted to deal with what I perceived might be the more challenging bits first. So next I had a look at the splashers (Part 79). Both splashers come together on one etch with a couple of other parts in the middle.
When bending the splashers down you need to make a really tight bend in order that the splasher tops line up. I managed to get this right on the second side. Although I understand why it's been done as one piece, personally I would have preferred the splasher tops as separate items to suit my way of working.
Nothing wrong with it as one piece and it does make it easier to hold, but it's quite tricky to get the second top curved properly when both sides are folded down. As you may have noted I really like to have the folds/bends a good fit before I go anywhere near them with solder. I have found in the past that joints soldered under tension, have a tendency to pull apart later...
I have to say that so far despite there being some interesting bends to make, the etches are going together as easy as anything that I have built to date. A testament to Paul's design skills.
When bending the splashers down you need to make a really tight bend in order that the splasher tops line up. I managed to get this right on the second side. Although I understand why it's been done as one piece, personally I would have preferred the splasher tops as separate items to suit my way of working.
Nothing wrong with it as one piece and it does make it easier to hold, but it's quite tricky to get the second top curved properly when both sides are folded down. As you may have noted I really like to have the folds/bends a good fit before I go anywhere near them with solder. I have found in the past that joints soldered under tension, have a tendency to pull apart later...