NZRedBaron's thread of questions

[NZRedBaron]

First van was completed a while ago, all that it's missing is couplings.

On a more goofy note, I had an idea for a complete "What-if" engine for my layout, more or less as a joke; there's a bloke on Shapeways who is selling HO-scale 3D-printed bodies (loco and tender) of the New Zealand Railways "Ja" class 4-8-2 of 1946; externally the Ja's were identical to the J class of 1939, which were all constructed by the North British Locomotive Company (as was a full 25% of all steam engines ever operated by NZR).

So, my idea is that, during the opening days of WWII, as the War Office was ordering large numbers of Stanier's 8F for military use, an enterprising draughtsman at NBL copied the plans of the NZR J class, resized them from Cape Gauge (3ft 6in) to Standard Gauge, and 'Brit-ified' them, intending to offer the design to the War Office as a potential supplement for the 8F's; the NZR J's are a bit heavier than the 8F's, but with their weight spread over a 4-8-2 wheel configuration, and their tender having bogie wheels, they'd might be more suited for high-speed, time-critical services, and have an axle loading somewhere between 12 and 15 tons, which, unless I have my sums mixed up, would potentially make them at least RA5, if not RA4 or even RA3, capable machines.

[Hatfield Shed]

It's a nice wartime romance, but I expect you realise that NB were sufficiently loaded with WD orders for Stanier and then subsequntly Riddles 'Austerity' 2-8-0's for the war effort, that no deviations were possible...

[NZRedBaron]

True enough, but then again, I'm operating on what Chris Eden-Green refers to as the Principle of "It's my flamin' railway, and I'll flamin' well do what I want with it.", as most modellers would agree with.

[NZRedBaron]

Something a little light-hearted now- years ago I picked up the old Hornby "Codename: STRIKEFORCE" set, and I'm going to repurpose the two Lowmacs and the 'supply van' from the set (might do the same with the engine, turn it into an industrial shunter of some sort); the lowmacs will be in the general duties pool, but I'm thinking to make the van a PO vehicle for one of the businesses in the town that my railway services- which will be a brewery.

Anyone want to take a punt and offer up a name for the brewery?

[NZRedBaron]

Thinking of some other things now; looking to pick up an old Hornby/Dapol Terrier, with an eye to using one of Thanet Loco Works' 3d prints to make it into a more appropriate tank engine for an inter-war LNER layout; intended to be the HEP for 'the branchline local' and the daily pick-up.

Only question is, which would be a better 'get' for that; the J67, J69, or a J68; I'm slightly leaning towards the J68, but I'd appreciate any considerations from the more knowledgeable here.

[Hatfield Shed]

...Only question is, which would be a better 'get' for that; the J67, J69, or a J68; I'm slightly leaning towards the J68, but I'd appreciate any considerations from the more knowledgeable here...

On the simple grounds of ubiquity, the J69 because there were far more of them, but the slightly taller cab of the J68 might help with accomodating the RTR mechanism.

[NZRedBaron]

Time for a change of name, I think.

So, to go with the name change, a simple question this time, aimed mainly towards fellow kiwi's; what do you use to remove tampos off your models? Things like running numbers, company heraldry/logos, and so on?

[nzpaul]

what do you use to remove tampos off your models? Things like running numbers, company heraldry/logos, and so on?

Gently attack the printing with a scalpel (honest, with much care it works...mostly) unfortunately it sometimes involves some touching up of the paint afterwards. I'd love to know where we can get the T-cut stuff that seems popular with our UK counterparts. Maybe there's an alternative product readily available here with a different name.
Perhaps the blokes in Austraya can wade in as well, given that we have similar availability of products.

Paul

[Atlantic 3279]

T-cut? Maybe have a chat with somebody reasonably "tame" and honest in the car-spraying trade and ask them what the finest grade of readily available mildly abrasive polishing compound is, and can you have a small amount to try out. If it is dry, or paste like, let it down to a thin cream by mixing it with some water, and try it out on a non-critical item first.

[nzpaul]

So T-cut is just an automotive cutting polish? I have some Turtlewax cutting polish in the shed already....watch this space

[Woodcock29]

I've bought T-cut at an auto shop here in Oz.
Andrew

[Atlantic 3279]

So T-cut is just an automotive cutting polish? I have some Turtlewax cutting polish in the shed already....watch this space

Yep. Nothing mysterious. It probably has a bit of "petroleum distillate" of one sort or another in it, to help to soften the paint surface and dissolve any sticky crud that might be present on old paintwork, but that's about it.

[mick b]

I have only used T cut once. It may have been the colour /, it was very good at turning Hornby Garter Blue a horrid shade of Green, as well as removing the numbers.
I use a new Swan Morton No 10 Curved edge Blade , gently brush the blade edge over the number/letter , you quickly see it removing the printing. Once gone move onto another area. The paint finish is very thin and you will be through to the plastic with anymore blade movements in that area .

[Atlantic 3279]

I also prefer to scrape / shave off the printed insignia, using very light trailing strokes of a very sharp edge, since that takes off the slightly raised unwanted markings without removing a similar depth of surrounding paintwork, thus leaving a flat surface and virtually full thickness original paint - if you've held the blade steadily and at the correct angle. The trailing angle at which the blade should be used helps to preventing it from digging-in or from "chattering" across the surface.
I've never tried T-cut myself, and was merely trying to translate the product name into recognizable NZ terminology. I'm convinced that any form of abrasion of the printed area with a cotton bud, flexible pad, or cloth is bound to erode the paintwork around the print to a significant extent, as well as taking off the print. I have also seen that T-cut used by others creates a slightly shiny area on previously matt finishes, which may be good for adhesion of new transfers, but it isn't convenient if you want to maintain the original matt finish rather than having to re-coat with matt varnish.

[Hatfield Shed]

Before any abrasives or scraping, simply try white spirit. That easily washes off Bachmann's printing with no effect on the body paint, and may well work on other brands, though not Hornby and Heljan ('scrape' off by dragging the blade as already well described above, ideally with a brand new blade so the edge is perfect, observing under magnification with a good light).

I have yet to have need to attack anything by other current makers, but it is only a matter of time.