Thank you.
No, you haven't missed anything. The kit was second hand and not in its original box so I don't know who manufactured it. It needed quite a bit of cleaning up and there are a few holes that need filling if that sheds any light on it.
I've googled pictures of both kits and there's not much to tell them apart when they're finished, nothing I can see that distinguishes one from the other.
Perhaps someone with first hand knowledge of both could tell from the pics.
Hi All
A slight change of pace over the last few weeks. I had the pleasure of a visit from Graeme L and he asked if I'd be willing to assemble a Judith Edge EB1 Electric Loco kit for him. Most of my own builds are waiting for paint at the moment and the weather has been too cold, so I cracked open the EB1 box and made a start.
At first the kit seemed pretty intimidating but after reading through the instructions and clearing up a few foggy issues with Michael Edge himself I got busy and, one piece at a time, I've arrived here.
I have to hold up for a while as I'm awaiting a power bogie and wheels to arrive and don't want to close the body in until I figure out how all that is going to go together.
Thus far it has been quite pleasant to work on, fiddly bits here and there but all fitting together as it's supposed to.
Not sure if these pics should go here but this post is by way of a thank you for your earlier posts on cutting and shutting Hornby Margate/Railroad Gresley coaches. Though I'm an LMS rather than an LNE modeller, I have a modest collection of Hornby Dublo 3-rail which includes some "basket case" engines I've aquired over the years and repaired, refurbished and repainted. I was looking for some coaches to run behind an A4 in post-war blue with "British Railways" on the tender - a kind of modern equivalent of the pre- and immediate post-war Hornby Dublo tinplate coaches in LNE teak.
An on-line search turned up your posts of a few years ago and, suitably encouraged, I repainted some Margate coaches picked up for small money and then had a crack at an articulated sleeper. It is, of course, like no known prototype but, with the short Hornby coaches in the consist, looks perfectly acceptable for a vintage Dublo layout.
As I didn't shorten them as much as you did with your articulated coaches I was able to retain the original truss rods in situ, but cleared the rest of the underframe detail and rebuilt it to something more plausible for an LNE coach. The original undersized wheels were replaced with 14mm Hornby coach wheels. This change by itself adds considerably to the appearance and "sit" of the vehicles. The teak finish is by the method described by Mike Trice on RMWeb.
I believe you're in Wanganui Paul. I'm south of you on the Kapiti Coast.
Thanks again for the inspiration.
Mike W
Last edited by MikeCW on Sat Aug 31, 2019 1:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
Sincere apologies Mike, I seem to have snobed you unintentionally. I concur with others comments, nice job on those coaches.
If you've got nothing better to do this weekend the Wanganui club is holding a show at the City College hall, it's not that far away from Kapiti, you could come and say hello, I'll be easy to find as I'm the organiser.
No worries at all Paul. Rest assured that I wasn't angling for an ego boost. I just wanted to acknowledge your contribution to a small project that worked out pretty well.
I may look in at City College on Saturday morning. And if I do, I'll ask for "Paul the Organiser".
Hi All
Now that our local Model Railway show is over and done (MikeCW did indeed show up and introduce himself, Nice to meet you Mike) I can get back to doing the stuff I enjoy.
First job back on the workbench is Graeme's EB1 and it's starting to get a bit serious, it actually moves.. . I've sorted out the bogie mounting for both ends and also built up the bogie frame for the powered end but not fitted that yet. It took some mucking about with spacers to set the powered end as I've used a Hanazono bogie but the loco now sitting level.
I've also included a short video of it's first movement, bogie seems to run quite well thankfully. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeA_yXRDMrY
(Chance this may be a 'duplicate' as my original reply disappeared as I was typing it).
The EB1 definitely looks the goods and your post answers a question I was going to put after getting your PM. You indeed do have the motor (being away for 5 weeks I was out of touch) and the video shows just how well it is performing. I will have to get my act together on replicating suitable 1920s/30s style overhead wiring/catenary for the big day when it finds its way north but I'm in no hurry to do that and same for the kit. Many thanks for posting - rapt with your progress.
And another Kiwi on the Forum (and close to my old home of Plimmerton)? Looks as though Mike is (like you and many others) streets ahead of me in improving/adapting/assembling both kits and other items that need some more than average skills.
Hi All
After reading Tim Watson's thread, in particular the construction of his B3 ,one part struck me as worth trying for my stalled A2 build. Tim's freehand cut chimney got me thinking that maybe I could do something similar, but using a piece of plastic tube instead of brass. So, into the shed with plastic tube and electric drill mounted in the vise and an oval shaped file that closely matched the shape I needed. After about 10 minutes of fluffing about and I couldn't quite believe what I'd ended up with. One chimney, that's not even a bad representation of the real thing, well I like it.....
Sorry about the first photo, the camera said it was in focus, but you get the idea I'm sure.
Funny how the chimney brings the whole thing to life, it actually looks like I'm trying to build an A2 .
Graeme's EB1 is all in bits again at the moment, some of it getting paint, more on that soon.
Glad to see you've had a go at a low-tech hand turned chimney. I've found that with care and patience, such things are possible. They don't bite if you're nice to them.
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Thanks Graeme, yes it's certainly low-tech, but very satisfying to solve the chimney problem myself with the help of Tim's idea. It's the kind of thing you learn that makes belonging to a forum like this very worthwhile.
Hi All
I've put some work into my train set for the first time in ages, so I thought a YouTube clip was the best way to show off to anyone who might be interested
I've completed the spiral/helix and done some testing with some of my fussy engines, all good so far, time to start thinking about what the rest will look like I suppose.
Hi All
I've continued running locos up and down the helix and all was going well until I tried the A2. I already had an idea that the A2 might not be very flexible but even the outer 760mm radius circuit caused trouble for the front bogie. A quick investigation found that the front wheels were rubbing on the cylinder fronts and the rear wheel were catching the cross head intermittently, so at a guess the minimum radius as it was would have been around 1 metre or so.
To stop the cross head interference I've moved the slide bars outboard by about 1mm each, not a fun job but thankfully the cylinders are fat enough that it isn't that noticeable.
Having recently had a Marklin BR03 in bits I had noticed the way the bogie is arranged to move forward as is swings side to side to maintain the wheels distance from the cylinders, that looked do-able so out with the files and soldering iron and a nothing to loose attitude. Came out like this.(mine's the top one...just saying)
And it works, not the 360mm radius flexibility of a Marklin Pacific but at least it'll go around my train set.
More lateral thinking from you Paul - I'm sure some of the other technical forum members will find your 'discovery' very helpful. As for me; well I know a couple of guys who get me out of this sort of hole if/when needed!
Graeme
. I've sorted out the bogie mounting for both ends and also built up the bogie frame for the powered end but not fitted that yet. It took some mucking about with spacers to set the powered end as I've used a Hanazono bogie but the loco now sitting level. 