Woodcock29 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 15, 2018 1:33 am... not sure what make of wheels you're talking about above in reference to LNER 6'8" and Midland 6'6" you might note that Markits LNER 6'8" wheels are in fact only 26mm ie 6'6"(actually 25.9mm over rim measured with my digital callipers). Presumably this is because of the closeness on LNER pacifics and the overscale flanges.....
AGW. For P4 purposes, it's a toss up between the correct diameter but flat-faced, or slightly smaller (0.6mm) with more correct flared spokes and shorter throw.
I'll try the Midland 2P drivers first and see how they look.
The long-dead Sharman range would probably have had an even more suitable wheel, but unfortunately the phoenix failed to rise from the ashes on that one and anyway the built-in crankpins weren't always the best.
Woodcock29 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 15, 2018 1:33 am
Horsetan
Although I'm not sure what make of wheels you're talking about above in reference to LNER 6'8" and Midland 6'6" you might note that Markits LNER 6'8" wheels are in fact only 26mm ie 6'6"(actually 25.9mm over rim measured with my digital callipers). Presumably this is because of the closeness on LNER pacifics and the overscale flanges.
For what it's worth, the Markits wheels Andrew refers to are what I have used on the prototype build. I appreciate however that building in P4 brings with it different considerations. It will certainly be interesting to see an example built up for operation on P4.
I imagine most people don't have a lathe, I don't. Also the balance weights on the Hornby driving wheels wouldn't be correct for the 4 cylinder B3. Also I expect the main crankpins would be too long but they could probably be shortened with a file.
Andrew
I have no lathe but I've been able to buy 3mm top-hat bearings in recent years, Markits I think, although I don't know if they are available at this very moment. If you were really stuck with no lathe and no commercially available turned top-hat bearings you could simply use short pieces of 3mm bore brass tube, nesting this in a larger size of tube if necessary to get the desired outside diameter. Plain tube is cheaper than turned bearings anyway.
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
On my kit-bashed Valour I suspended the brakes on the centre driving wheels from below! ie there is no pivot point at the top, they are just sitting on the brake rigging at the bottom - they haven't fallen off yet. They are also marginally slimmer than those on the leading and trailing driving wheels. I also did this on a Ks B2.
john coffin wrote: ↑Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:58 am
what I am interested to see is how you have overcome the problem of the brakes between the driving wheels!!!!!!!
looking good
Paul
Aha - we thought of that.
The frame etches include a non-prototypical lug that hangs down between the leading and centre driving wheels. The lower hole corresponds with the pivot point between the hanger and the brakeblocks so the assembled brake blocks can be attached at that point. In fact, a slight joggle is required in the supporting wire but, once fitted, the supporting lug is invisible from all normal viewing angles.
Woodcock29 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 18, 2018 7:07 am
On my kit-bashed Valour I suspended the brakes on the centre driving wheels from below! ie there is no pivot point at the top, they are just sitting on the brake rigging at the bottom - they haven't fallen off yet. They are also marginally slimmer than those on the leading and trailing driving wheels. I also did this on a Ks B2.
Andrew
Andrew, that's a really nice looking model of Valour. I know it is a really tricky job but lining the wheel rims would raise it another level but I completely understand why you maybe haven't had a go at it. Anyway, well done.
, but I'd imagine it could be awkward if your usual bushes are 1/8" diameter.