Yes, 0.66mm too high is correct. I thought 4mm was your scale, but decided to use real numbers, just in case.
I would offer to turn you one, but Graeme will be here in less than a week and it would take me longer than that to clear the bench and set up the lathe. The widest part is the base at 2ft 3in. therefore 9mm, which is similar to the B16, as is the lip etc.
nzpaul wrote: ↑Sat Mar 31, 2018 4:08 am
If any chimney is floating about and could end up at said show in the hands of Jonathan Weallans or John Smart who Graeme is hopefully catching up with, that would be very helpful.(not to mention proof of miracles) Payment can be sorted via paypal of Graeme will hand over required cash if a chimney does crop up. Horrendous long shot I know but no harm in asking
As I am the second person named in Paul's message above, I will be happy to pass on a chimney to Graeme at ScaleFour North, via the LNER Society stand, if one is available?
Thanks very much John, I probably should have asked first, but I figured that since Jonathan and yourself would be there anyway it would be ok. I`m not really expecting a chimney to arrive on your door step so I doubt you`ll need to deal with it.
I shall have to follow your method for the footplate, as it seems to work and stay together. My railway room is full of other junk as I'm decorating at the moment. When I finish, I shall have to restart the A2/2.
I was extremely lucky with the DJH A2, as I paid £140 (+15%) at auction, and a SEF K3 with a spare chassis was included in the lot.
As you said there have been models of varying quality on EBay, with some having cylinders outside the footplate. I shudder to think how someone could pay a lot of money for the kit and then build it so badly.
Thanks EN, kind of you to say. You can thank Mr King for the method of footplate frame, inspired by his P1 with its brass running plate construction.
12ba taps have arrived at last too, so more P2 progress coming up. Not this weekend though, I'm taking part in a small show in Bulls (no...really, town called Bulls). Taking all of my kits, chop jobs and scratch build to display ,as well as my sound fitted Dapol/Hornby DCC Deltic to entertain the kids. I have set up the DCC to work with a tablet so kids can have a go without touching anything expensive or breakable.
Hi All
Back to work on the P2 at last. I've built up the valve gear today and it was.....fun .
I wouldn't say that I've used Tony Writes method of making up the gear,I don't think I'd be fooling anybody, but I have used his suggestion of soldered pins again and it really is easier and less trouble than trying to rivet the parts. Everything is moving as it should so fingers crossed it will go well once in position on the frames.
If anyone is interested in putting a face to the name, here's a link to a YouTube clip that I've inadvertently appeared in.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EM5cU01FbMQ . I appear just after 5 minutes into it, thankfully it's only a glimpse . I don't remember anyone there with a camera to capture my ugly mug, but I was busy messing about with my Deltic at the time. I did post my own clip of the show but this one is probably a bit better anyway.
Hi All
At last, from a slightly confusing box of bits (with no instructions) emerges a recognizable loco. This is my favorite part of building, when you finally put the major parts together and it still works properly (mostly/sometimes ). Metal kits do look quite nice before they get painted, not as "flash" as a Japanese or Korean brass loco but more pleasing in that it's your own work.
The valve gear did cause me some stress for a while due to some very close tolerances between connecting rods and expansion link but once resolved all ran quite sweetly.
I think that 2002 in its original condition without the smoke deflectors is one of the best looking ever steam locomotives.
I have the kit to build, at some date, so I am interested in the thread.
I have built the basic chassis and fitted a Mashima 1830 motor driving through a High level gearbox, which should give it plenty of brute power like the original.
Thank you kind sirs, I couldn't agree more . The original "Earl M" is without doubt the best looking of all P2s and also surprised that it hasn't been replicated by the folks at Hornby. Having said that I think once I've finished this one I'd not trade it for a mass manufactured version.
After saying that I find it best to finish a project before moving on somewhere earlier in the thread....I've gone and broken my own rules. This model probably wont find much in the way of admiration on this forum (should it at all?) but, having collected masses of odd bits and pieces over the years I thought I'd make this thing for a laugh. It's the marriage of an old and broken Bachmann N&W J 4-8-4 to a Mehano 4-6-2 chassis. Why?????? because I can I guess.
Work involved shortening the body by about 25mm and also using the 4 wheel trailing truck to create a 4-6-4. Building up a fairing around the truck to give the firebox area a bit of mass and repaint to black/blue/silver. Colouring was inspired by our local rugby teams strip, known as the butchers apron.
The loco and tender are filled with electronic wizardry so it makes all manner of noises and the lights can turn on and off and blink/strobe.
So a freelance 4-6-4 streamliner made out of junk (kitbashing I think it's called). It runs remarkably well, as do most of the Mehano models I've come across. I just have to find an appropriate name in true freelance style, I was thinking "The Blue Racer" ... even my train buff mates look at me like I'm weird sometimes.
Thank you gentlemen, I think believable is the best that can be hoped for with such a project. In a way it's not really any different to the teak coaches I've built from the old Hornby ones, they're not much more than an impression of what they're supposed to be.
Next time I have my Broadway Ltd N&W J out I'll take a photo of them together, it'll be rather cruel as the BLI one makes even the new Bachmann one look like rubbish let alone this old and now severely butchered one. All good fun though.
Hi All
Very little has been done in the way of Loco or rolling stock construction of late, apart from another non-LNER related 4-6-4.
I've been spending my time making a start on my layout. The room has been completed for about a year or so now so I thought it was about time to get cracking. So, this is the result of quite a few weekends work, it's 3 levels of what will be a 5 tier helix that trains will climb/descend between the two around the walls shelf levels. So far I've used up 1 and a bit boxes of Peco track and loads of time. I'm being quite fussy with track joints as derailment inside this lot would be something of a pain.
I'll have to find more time in the evenings o carry on with the P2 and A2.....among other things.
Radius of outer up track is 725mm and inner down is around 660mm, give or take a mm here and there
I've been using the P1 2-8-2 to test each circuit as I build it, if that loco is happy, all others will be fine. Rise per circuit is 90mm giving a gradient of around 1/50. The P1 should take 25 to 30 wagons up this before the tender falls over. All of my A3s and A4s have an extra 50grams added to them so the can take 8 coach trains up . I've tested these on our local club layout which has slightly steeper grades but not quite so severe curves. Other locos will be adjusted as required once the layout is useable.
.
. I don't remember anyone there with a camera to capture my ugly mug, but I was busy messing about with my Deltic at the time. I did post my own clip of the show but this one is probably a bit better anyway.
). Metal kits do look quite nice before they get painted, not as "flash" as a Japanese or Korean brass loco but more pleasing in that it's your own work. 
even my train buff mates look at me like I'm weird sometimes.
