Paul's workbench
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- nzpaul
- LNER Thompson B1 4-6-0 'Antelope'
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Re: Paul's workbench
Thank you gentlemen, I have to say I'm fairly pleased with how it's turned out.
One last Photo before I move on to the tender, remaining parts fitted such as buffers, whistle and lubricator. Red lining to running plate and rear axle boxes with white lining on the buffer beam. I've done my best to get a front 3/4 shot but my camera never does a good job of these, always out of focus at one end or the other even with macro switched on. Also a photo of Abbotsford showing the lubricator drive I'll need to fabricate myself as the kit doesn't have that part. Great photo, I'd provide credit if I knew where it came from, it isn't in any of the books that I've got.
I'm not sure why but the kit doesn't quite capture the massive nature of the real thing, they weren't particularly large engines but somehow the model misses the point a bit, dimensionally it's very close to the Beattie drawing but just not quite there. Cheers
Paul
One last Photo before I move on to the tender, remaining parts fitted such as buffers, whistle and lubricator. Red lining to running plate and rear axle boxes with white lining on the buffer beam. I've done my best to get a front 3/4 shot but my camera never does a good job of these, always out of focus at one end or the other even with macro switched on. Also a photo of Abbotsford showing the lubricator drive I'll need to fabricate myself as the kit doesn't have that part. Great photo, I'd provide credit if I knew where it came from, it isn't in any of the books that I've got.
I'm not sure why but the kit doesn't quite capture the massive nature of the real thing, they weren't particularly large engines but somehow the model misses the point a bit, dimensionally it's very close to the Beattie drawing but just not quite there. Cheers
Paul
- kimballthurlow
- GCR D11 4-4-0 'Improved Director'
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Re: Paul's workbench
Hi Paul,
Thanks for showing your lovely model, one that is not seen often.
I am sure that from the perspective of rail level, it would appear just as massive as the real one.
Overhead views just don't do it.
regards
Kimball
Thanks for showing your lovely model, one that is not seen often.
I am sure that from the perspective of rail level, it would appear just as massive as the real one.
Overhead views just don't do it.
regards
Kimball
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- GER D14 4-4-0 'Claud Hamilton'
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Re: Paul's workbench
for some reason the one in the photo looks a bit longer and compared to the shorter and taller looking model, possibly just my imagination but it could be what the problem is
Coalby and Marblethorpe, my vision of an un-nationalised Great Britain in the 50s and 60s: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11905
36C Studeos, kits in 4MM scale: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11947
36C Studeos, kits in 4MM scale: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11947
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- NBR D34 4-4-0 'Glen'
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Re: Paul's workbench
To my way of thinking, kimballthurlow makes an excellent point about the photographer's position. As it happens, there's a picture of Midlothian taken from a similar viewpoint as that in your 1:32 a.m. post at page 27 in Locomotives Illustrated No. 62, and the resemblance of your model is striking.
The picture of Abbotsford is a beauty. I can't add anything as to the photographer's identity, but I am confident that the picture was taken at St Margarets, with the corner of the turners' shop visible on the right hand side of the picture.
The trackwork nerd in me can't resist the urge to comment on the rail joint visible below Abbotsford's cab footstep, with no corresponding joint in the opposite rail. Staggered joint track or a convenient place at which to make use of a spare length of rail?
The picture of Abbotsford is a beauty. I can't add anything as to the photographer's identity, but I am confident that the picture was taken at St Margarets, with the corner of the turners' shop visible on the right hand side of the picture.
The trackwork nerd in me can't resist the urge to comment on the rail joint visible below Abbotsford's cab footstep, with no corresponding joint in the opposite rail. Staggered joint track or a convenient place at which to make use of a spare length of rail?
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- GER D14 4-4-0 'Claud Hamilton'
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Re: Paul's workbench
I heard of rivet counters, but fishplate counters? whatever will happen nextJohn Palmer wrote: ↑Sun Apr 23, 2017 5:35 pm The trackwork nerd in me can't resist the urge to comment on the rail joint visible below Abbotsford's cab footstep, with no corresponding joint in the opposite rail. Staggered joint track or a convenient place at which to make use of a spare length of rail?
at least you keep the rest of us on our toes
Coalby and Marblethorpe, my vision of an un-nationalised Great Britain in the 50s and 60s: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11905
36C Studeos, kits in 4MM scale: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11947
36C Studeos, kits in 4MM scale: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11947
- nzpaul
- LNER Thompson B1 4-6-0 'Antelope'
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Re: Paul's workbench
Hi All
It's been a while but I've finally managed to spare some time to carry on with the C11's tender. I think the pictures pretty much tell the story of how I've gone about making the wrap around coal rails and cage. All made fro 0.8mm brass rod and plastic sheet. I have a copy of the relevant "Locomotives Illustrated" but photos of the cage details are a bit scarce so the whole thing is a pretty much guess work. As you can imagine, I managed to cause quite some pain to my thumb and index finger holding things together while soldering bits (who needs clamps???? ) There is still some tidy up work to do but I wanted to get the pictures taken before the light disappeared. Cheers
paul
It's been a while but I've finally managed to spare some time to carry on with the C11's tender. I think the pictures pretty much tell the story of how I've gone about making the wrap around coal rails and cage. All made fro 0.8mm brass rod and plastic sheet. I have a copy of the relevant "Locomotives Illustrated" but photos of the cage details are a bit scarce so the whole thing is a pretty much guess work. As you can imagine, I managed to cause quite some pain to my thumb and index finger holding things together while soldering bits (who needs clamps???? ) There is still some tidy up work to do but I wanted to get the pictures taken before the light disappeared. Cheers
paul
- Atlantic 3279
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Re: Paul's workbench
No pain = no gain.
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
- nzpaul
- LNER Thompson B1 4-6-0 'Antelope'
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Re: Paul's workbench
haha, yep, thanks Graeme. If i can quote TW from his Wright Writes thread on RMW....."don't be a wimp, just hold on and solder it" or something to that effect.
- nzpaul
- LNER Thompson B1 4-6-0 'Antelope'
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Re: Paul's workbench
Hi All
Given that this kit was manufactured in a fairly old fashioned way, its tender has no internal chassis but relies on the axles running in the frames, I have been agonizing over how to fit pickups into the tender but keep the thing serviceable. The solution I've arrived at looks like this: I've soldered the frames solid on one side but made the other side removable by soldering a piece of brass angle to act as fixing near the front and a countersunk screw retaining the back end. The end result will mean a visible screw but by the time it's painted it should be fairly hard to spot. The tender is also very free rolling, making wonder if the internal chassis is really a superior way of doing things or not.
Also made up the lubricator drive on the loco, made from a scrap of round white metal and some bent up used guitar string, It's not exact but I didn't fancy trying to solder up something so small, so near enough will have to do.
Cheers
Paul
Given that this kit was manufactured in a fairly old fashioned way, its tender has no internal chassis but relies on the axles running in the frames, I have been agonizing over how to fit pickups into the tender but keep the thing serviceable. The solution I've arrived at looks like this: I've soldered the frames solid on one side but made the other side removable by soldering a piece of brass angle to act as fixing near the front and a countersunk screw retaining the back end. The end result will mean a visible screw but by the time it's painted it should be fairly hard to spot. The tender is also very free rolling, making wonder if the internal chassis is really a superior way of doing things or not.
Also made up the lubricator drive on the loco, made from a scrap of round white metal and some bent up used guitar string, It's not exact but I didn't fancy trying to solder up something so small, so near enough will have to do.
Cheers
Paul
- nzpaul
- LNER Thompson B1 4-6-0 'Antelope'
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Re: Paul's workbench
Hi All
Not quite the completed article yet, but here's a picture of the nearly finished C11. Despite having lowered the loco as much as comfort would allow, there is still a discrepancy in height between the loco and tender. I wouldn't be surprised if the tender is too low as well as the loco being "jacked up" . It's not completely awful but I'm tempted to keep trying to resolve the ride height. Once again I've tried to get a descent low angle shot, I'm no photographer is the only conclusion I come to.....
Cheers
Paul
Not quite the completed article yet, but here's a picture of the nearly finished C11. Despite having lowered the loco as much as comfort would allow, there is still a discrepancy in height between the loco and tender. I wouldn't be surprised if the tender is too low as well as the loco being "jacked up" . It's not completely awful but I'm tempted to keep trying to resolve the ride height. Once again I've tried to get a descent low angle shot, I'm no photographer is the only conclusion I come to.....
Cheers
Paul
Re: Paul's workbench
It might not be the completed article yet Paul but it does look very very good!
Steve
- Atlantic 3279
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Re: Paul's workbench
Always nice to see a neatly built loco rather than one out of the box. The preservation of service access to the tender running gear seems a sound idea. Now you have it that way, you'll never need it of course .
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
- nzpaul
- LNER Thompson B1 4-6-0 'Antelope'
- Posts: 615
- Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2011 11:48 am
- Location: New Zealand
Re: Paul's workbench
Thanks Steve and Graeme, I'll take all the compliments I can get. Although I'm under no illusion that I'm not as good a model maker as either of you. I'm always blown away at the finish of your models, I just don't have the chops to get the bow pen to do what you both achieve, still, practice makes perfect....eventually.
Further to the ride height issue, I think I'm pretty much stuck with the loco how it is, the running plate is resting on the cylinder tops as it is and the loco sits level so that's all there is, bottomed out if you like.....oh well, once it's running on a layout it wont be that noticeable.
Cheers
Paul
Further to the ride height issue, I think I'm pretty much stuck with the loco how it is, the running plate is resting on the cylinder tops as it is and the loco sits level so that's all there is, bottomed out if you like.....oh well, once it's running on a layout it wont be that noticeable.
Cheers
Paul
Re: Paul's workbench
Paul,nzpaul wrote: ↑Wed Aug 30, 2017 4:15 am Thanks Steve and Graeme, I'll take all the compliments I can get. Although I'm under no illusion that I'm not as good a model maker as either of you. I'm always blown away at the finish of your models, I just don't have the chops to get the bow pen to do what you both achieve, still, practice makes perfect....eventually.
Please do not sell yourself short. Your C11 is very very good and it doesn't matter what method you use to do your lining - my D49 uses both pen and transfer work (especially the later on the tender) to use the lining. Besides, I'm very much a bodger in my own work and if I get stuck (or think something I'm trying is just too crazy), I just read Graeme's, Jonathon's, Rob's or half a dozen other people's threads and try and copy what they do!
Keep up the great work, you've got a corker of a model going there!
Steve