Atlantic's works: Portable layout - Scenic details next

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

I had ignored the reversing lever connection and merely measured the links. This showed that the P1, P2, and O2 have the same linkage dimensions.

The Comet D49 valve gear has some suitable length rods, but the motion bracket differs, and it would be expensive to buy the D49 gear for the rods/slidebars, and then the V2 gear for the motion bracket.

Earlswood nob

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

I now know that my Kays P2, has the wrong valve gear.

I will put on my to-do list, it's replacement by a more accurate version.

I will attempt to salvage some of the original rods, and use the Comet V2 valve gear which has better slidebars and motion bracket.

Earlswood nob

[LNER4489]

Well..... If you right click 'quote this post' on one of your posts, then it will show the URL of the image. If you copy and paste this in to your browser, it will show the image. A bit long winded but they haven't gone forever

I am trying to retrieve some of Graeme's missing image shack pictures. I have followed Corbs' advice from page 270 and right clicked the quote button.
That gets me more details of the old image shack link, in a new tab, like this for instance

" 5. Cast clerestory loosely fitted to coach.
"

But if I copy and paste that old link into my browser I just get sent to a generic image shack page. I have tried deleting the [img] ahead of the http: and the same thing happens.

What am I doing wrong ? Any advice welcome.
Thanks Tom

[LNER4489]

Well the link description i tried to post above also got replaced.
I will try to show it again with spaces to try to stop it being replaced
[img] http: // image shack . us/a/img543/1679/mf6j.jpg[/img]
... and see what happens ...
Tom

[jwealleans]

If Graeme (or Imageshack) have removed an image then even doing what you do won't locate it.

[Atlantic 3279]

Blame Imageshack. They've done the removing, despite an undertaking not to remove images already being hosted when they discontinued free hosting of new images....

I actually had a much longer post partly prepared, with some new images, but before I had finished, that free hosting mess that is Photobucket froze up and by the time I had extracted myself from its grip, my efforts to escape had destroyed my unfinished draft for this forum too. You get what you pay for, and as I won't pay, I get rubbish....

[Atlantic 3279]

Quick second attempt to post new info, reverting to direct image uploads, and somewhat abbreviated text as time does not now permit what I intended:

The comparison of pony truck freedom of movement, correctly shaped metal cylinder drains at top versus Hornby's dead-straight plastic ones below. A subject raised a elsewhere recently.

Cock o' the North with the bits out of the packets in the box fitted, at long last, plus an attempt to make the rims of Hornby's coupled wheels look like "as new condition" burnished steel. Humbrol 53 metallic doesn't thoroughly match real steel on the Gibson pony wheels in many lights, nor from many angles....

Does anybody have a recommendation regarding a superior paint finish to emulate shiny steel?

2001 vs 2002.

[Atlantic 3279]

Meanwhile, an attempt is underway to make a mould for the front of Lord President without having to go to the trouble of cutting the master model's body in half, as I did when dealing with Earl Marischal. If this works, I'll save a lot of time and trouble. Obviously, the loco body will need some temporary skirts to act as shuttering prior to pouring the rubber for the outer mould. The box will also need a base, and the profile piece that goes around the body amidships will have to be sealed to the body temporarily. Plasticine will probably suffice.

[Mercator II]

Looking forward to seeing how you get on with the LP mould, with no chimney, would this mould also be usable for WoB? I see me asking for 2!!

Your EM is just amazing, it deserves a prize, as do you, and I thank you for taking the time and effort to do & share with us lesser mortals

[AdamOrmorod4468]

2002 looks fantastic, and I am excited to see what your streamlined version looks like when it's finished! I like the way you have done the fronts of the cylinder draincocks, but I've never noticed the bend near the cylinders on a prototype photo. Is the bend accurate or just to give the model's front wheels more room?

[Nova]

Does anybody have a recommendation regarding a superior paint finish to emulate shiny steel?

Speaking only from what I've seen on the interwebs

I would recommend Artists oils.

they are starting to be widely used by armour and aircraft modellers, they can be thinned down and sprayed through an airbrush but can produce great results with a brush as long as you make sure that after applying the initial brush coat you go back with a dry large-soft brush like a makeup brush and blend the brushstrokes together, they also retain the "wet" shade unlike acrylic and enamel paints which tend to experience some amount of tonal-fade as they dry

even applying a light weathering wash as weak as 95% thinner can improve the appearance of the model as seen in this article:
http://www.panzermania.com/tipps/weathering_en1.html

The specific photos that I feel make the case are these:

Before. Airbrushed with Revell enamel paints, then transferred and matte varnished:
http://www.panzermania.com/tipps/resiml ... ring/1.JPG

After. Brushed with washes comprised of Yellow Ochre, Natural Umber, Burnt Sienna and a Dark Grey similar to WW2 German Military Grey:
http://www.panzermania.com/tipps/resiml ... ring/8.JPG.


for base colours you'll have to do quite a bit of experimentation, but I have done a bit of research as I was intending to do some experimenting once my workbench is set up.

keep in mind this is only from looking at pictures online, so the tones might be a little off and you may have to play about by adding some extra colours to shift the tones this way or that. for all of the mentioned colours refer to the "Winsor & Newton" range, which to my understanding is widely available online and in most artist shops

Doncaster green: "Cadmium green pale"

Darlington Green: "Cadmium green pale" and "Permanent green light", a possible mixing of the two, to my rather colour tone blind eyes it looked like the latter could be added to the former to alter its hue to closer replicate the North Eastern's shade of green.

Garter blue: "Cobalt Turquoise" or "Cobalt Turquoise Light" these two are very close, so it would be a case of trying both and seeing which you feel is closer, or using both for different locos to represent subtle real life inconsistencies.

Black could be replicated by pretty much any brand of black oil-paint.

Grey would be a case of looking through the million and one different shades out there and picking what matches best

for fitted frieght oxide I'm afraid you'll be on your own in terms of looking for a suitable colour, if the worst comes to the worst it can be stripped, painted over or weathered to hide any mistakes

replicating teak has already been well talked about and efforts by one member who's name escapes my has shown that it may have a superior appearance to Hornby and Dapol rather costly attempts

[Atlantic 3279]

The additional bend in the cylinder drains, just ahead of the cylinders, is supported by plenty of photographic evidence as far as the P2s are concerned. I haven't looked for it on other locos yet. I've probably exaggerated it a little in the model, but as the front of the pipes rather than the rear part has greatest effect on limiting pony truck movement, I don't imagine I've gained much space from that exaggeration.

Use of artist's oils is always an option, but beyond the unavoidable multi-pot, multi-layer teak finish for coaches, I'm not at all keen to start time consuming experimentation and application of artistic effects on relatively tiny areas such as wheel rims. A paint finish that comes out of a single pot, is genuinely the right colour for brightly burnished steel, has the correct lustre when seen from different angles, and has the metallic flakes small enough to no longer be individually visible to the human eye is the kind of thing that is called for - a metallic paint that actually looks like metal, not a metallic paint that looks like metallic paint.

A full replacement set of Gibson coupled wheels would do the trick of course, but that means spending considerably more money and overcoming the potential problems of axle size, crankpin size and type, making and fitting of balance weights, quartering and securing, more painting, lining out of bosses etc.

It's a shame that the production models of Cock o' the North don't appear to have quite the same wheels as the pre-production model portrayed in the picture of the box of the super-detail model. In the picture, the revealed bright edges of the steel tyres appear to be quite thick, probably thick enough to more or less represent the loco's brand new, ex-works appearance. To my eyes the tyre edges on the production models are thinner

[Atlantic 3279]

All necessary shuttering now in place, with gaps and holes sealed. These pictures taken just before sealing the floor, rear wall and model into the rest of the moulding box with plenty of sellotape.

[Dave]

I agree metallic paint is poor, if I want worn areas of exposed steel I use a 6B pencil or graphite stick.
I've not tried it on wheel edges, it may look ok, but on tank tracks and steel road wheels it is fine.

Keep up the good work bud .

[Atlantic 3279]

Bud??? I can tell you've been reading things in the other place....