On my workbench - it's a Sam Fay

[jwealleans]

I excavated my kit from the depths of the to do pile last night and confirmed that it is the same one. Lovely. I may save this one for my retirement. I do have one like yours, Rob, but not quite so far along the dismantling route. I also have a scratchbuilt one somewhere - I suppose if the scratchbuild is more accurate I could use the kit to improve it, if possible.

I shall be taking careful note of your progress, Morgan.

[45609]

Hi everyone,

A bit more progress to report on the Sam Fay in the photos below. To be honest it doesn't look like much has been done but a lot of work has gone into remaking the incorrect components.

Front frames and bogie have been made. With reference to the works and Issinglass drawing I sketched out the profile of the parts on a CAD program, printed off and then glued it two pieces of 0.015" thick brass sheet that had been tack soldered together. Bogie holes were drilled and the outlines cut out (carefully) with a jeweller's fret saw. After some cleaning up with a file the parts were separated and then assembled as shown in the second photo.

The cab sides were made from 0.010" brass in a similar manner. This time, however, I used the old, too short, cabsides as a template. First scribed the rear and top profile onto the new material to be cut out then slide it forward be a few millimetres and scribed the front and bottom profile. Fretted out and cleaned up paying careful attention that the fit of the bottom cab curve matches the running plate.

One of the other problems with this kit is that there are no real assembly aids (tabs, slots or half etch lines) which usually calls for some lateral thinking with the holding and lining up of parts for soldering. The high level gearbox was a welcome break from this. Well thought out design, good instructions and all fits together perfectly.

More soon......Morgan

P.S. JW if you want a copy of the outline drawing for the front frame and bogie send me a PM and I'll post you a copy.

[45609]

Hi everyone,

It has been a long time since I posted anything on this loco build. I got quite fed up with having to fix the various problems with the kit I had to have a break from it.

Before putting it away I assembled the boiler and firebox and there are a few points to note. Firstly the firebox wrapper is a bit short resulting in the circular cut outs for the wheels showing above the splasher tops. A small infill piece is needed on the firemans side. The drivers side will be covered by the reversing screw fairing. The second point is that the smokebox former when folded up is too tall and needs to be shortened to avoid a sloping boiler. In the end I made a complete new saddle and only retained the front portion of the smokebox, shortened at the bottom edge. Finally the smokebox wrapper should not be rolled and fitted right down the the level of the running plate. I did this and then found the front frame extensions sat too wide relative to the piece provided for the hinged piston valve cover. Had to remove it, trim to length and then refit. That was the last straw as I put it away and went on holiday!!!!!

Anyway this weekend has seen work recommence with the wheels, rods and brake gear put together ready for assembly. However before that the mainframes will have to be painted and on this subject I have a question to ask? My understanding of the GCR passenger livery was that the frames were painted claret red lined vermillion. This is certainly true for the tender frames but, from study of black and white photos, I'm struggling to see it on the loco frames. My only written reference of the livery (Dow's Great Central Vol III) is not very detailed in it's description and just states that the frames were reddish brown lined vermillion. Does anyone know of any other info, written or illustrated, on this livery please?

Cheers for now....Morgan

[Malcolm]

Morgan,

The only decent colour picture I know of a Great Central loco that shows the livery well is at:

http://just-postcards.picturebook.org.uk/p37743603.html

I don't know if anyone else knows of any books or colour plates.

Malcolm

[45609]

Hi Malcolm,

Thanks for that. A friend has also come up with a colour postcard similar to the one you linked. These maybe the best info that is available.

Cheers...Morgan

[Malcolm]

Good luck Morgan.
I'd like to see a picture when you finally finish the model.

Malcolm

[Bill Bedford]

The only decent colour picture I know of a Great Central loco that shows the livery well is at:

Though Sam Fay was turned out ex works in the green livery, all the others were turned out in black with red lining.

[45609]

Good evening,

Time for one of my rather infrequent updates. I'm still finding a distinct lack of enthusiam to get stuck into the loco body detailing but it might not be too far away now. Instead I broke a rule (well not really) and decided to try my hand at doing the livery on the tender. I have to say that I am pleased with the way it has come out. The painting process has followed my established standard as follows.

1. Clean as per the instructions on August 19th last year here. I also now have an ultrasonic cleaner which is really useful for getting crud out of all the blind corners.
2. Spray on 2 pack Precision etch primer. This is let down to 3 parts thinner to 1 part paint otherwise it won't go through the airbrush
3. Spray Halfords red oxide primer.
4. Spray main green body colour. This is mixed 1 part thinner to 1 part paint for spraying.
5. Mask up using Tamiya masking tape and spray claret frame colour.
6. Spray whole body with Ronseal Hardglaze gloss varnish. 1 to 1 mix again.
7. The lining was then carried out using a bow pen and compasses for the black/red edging. Black/white/black lining was done with modelmaster waterslide transfers.
8. The "Great Central" was from some custom transfers printed by Steam and Things in Australia. The crests are by Fox Transfers.
9. All the black and steel coloured areas were then cut in using fine sable brushes.
10. Finally a spray coat of Ronseal Ultratough satin varnish finsihed the job.

What progress I have made on the loco has seen the chassis and wheels painted. The next thing I have noticed that needs attending to is the ride height. It is currently sitting a bit low as a result of using slightly underscale wheels (for flange clearance).

More soon.....Morgan

[mick b]

Excellent work. How do you line the wheels? pictures would be excellent

Mick

[Robpulham]

I was wondering the sam thing for my D16

[rob]

Great to see an update on this project Morgan-I'm afraid I'm running out of superlatives,this is just magnificent!
One question-I've not used Ronseal on a model,and it has a very powerful solvent smell-has it ever affected model enamels or transfers on your models when sprayed?I know its used by a number of others and is usually described as giving a very tough finish so assume it causes no ill effects....
Rob

[Atso]

Hi, the tender looks great and I'm glad to see you're see making good progress on what I'm sure will be an excellent model (if not kit to work with...).

Rob, I've used Ronseal teak varnish on my Gresley coaches, while I can't speak for the clear verity the teak varnish is not solvent based but rather appears to be a water based varnish (at least mine mixes with water and nothing else!).

[45609]

Hi guys.....

First, thanks to everyone for their kind words. I'll now try to answer the questions.

Mick, Rob P, There are a few words on how I lined wheels on the Raven A2 I built a while ago. For convenience I have reposted them below. Next time I do some wheels I shall try to remember to take a few work in progress photos.

The lining of the wheels and some of the loco body lining has been done with spring bow compasses or bow pen and gloss humbrol enamels. A photo of the tools is attached.

To explain in a little more detail before painting the wheels have a centre dimple put on the axle ends to give the point of the compasses something to register into. When it comes to the lining the black circle is done first and then a minimum of 24 hours later the white line is done. The paint is used neat from the tin as it flows nicely but does not bleed.

On the loco, taking the red running plate line as an example , the straight lines have been done with the bow pen. Then the compasses are used to to do the curved portions. The point of the compasses is replaced with a piece of parallel brass wire that protrudes beyond the tip of the pen. Loaded with paint the pen tip is set very close to, but not touching, the brass wire. I then run the bottom edge of the brass wire along the bottom of the running plate whilst keeping the tip of the pen in contact with the model. All being well a nice smooth curved line results that follows the contour of the running plate.

I should add that all lining application is done onto a high gloss surface as it helps the paint flow continuously from the tip of the bow pen. Transfer application is also best done onto this surface as well to avoid air trapping and silvering of the transfer carrier film. Silvering usually only becomes apparent when you apply the overcoat of satin varnish by which time it is too late.

Rob B, I have never had any problems with sprayed Ronseal varnishes attacking enamels paint or transfers. I agree it has a rather pungent smell but it appears to be happy being thinned with Precision Varnish thinners. I use the varnish thinners because it has a slower drying time than normal Precision General Purpose thinners. The intent with this is to let the varnish hit the model quite wet and then let the slow evaporation of the thinners allow the varnish to flow and achieve a nice smooth finish. The skill is not to get the model too wet with varnish and form runs. It is just a case of practice on something beforehand to get your eye in. The combination to avoid at all costs is spraying cellulose based varnishes over enamel paint finishes. Cellulose solvent is so strong it just lifts the enamel and you end with a wrinkled gungy mess. I found this out to my cost once and once only.

Atso, It sounds like you are indeed using a water based varnish. The Ronseal I use is definitely solvent based. Having not used the water based versions I cannot really comment on what they are like to use. However it sounds like you have had some success with them.

That's all for now.....Morgan

[mick b]

Thanks for the tips, one long question with many points !! how do you get the pen to flow??.
I have a example with the handle. The only way I have got it to work is to hold it on its side and "drag" the pen along , its gives a line which is rather thick!! Do you use it like a normal pen with a nib ?also how large a gap do have at the end ? i have tried to draw it along in the "normal" writing position but nothing happens!!!!!!!!

Mick

[Robpulham]

Thanks Morgan for the painting tips very usefull I have a straight bow pen but need to look out for the compass type