Hachette O gauge A1

[Blakey boy]

Points

I too am building this kit and have just joined the forum.

With ref to the boiler I use 0.7mm rivets from www.scalehardware.com its in the states but they do a vast range of cometic hardware bolts, nuts, washers etc etc. for a very reasonable price too.

I have ordered and recaived the said .7 plus i paid for the 0.5mm head and the 1mm head rivets. I have done the boiler and when I can I will post a piccie on the website.

Incidentally I tried using 0.5mm rivets in the boiler and some just fell through or sunk into the holes as the holes are aroound 0.4 - 0.45 mm across. But i will be using them elsewhere.

ATB

Bob

Blakey boy

[61650GTFC]

Heres a few pictures of my progress in coverting the Hachette A1 into an A3.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=16719

[Blakey boy]

Hi

I see you have gone for the Post 40's look in the cab as they were all converted to look like that after 1940/Pre-nationalisation.

Cheers

Bob

[61650GTFC]

Yes that is correct. As well as the cab I have converted it to left hand drive, banjo dome & double chimney for a late 1950's A3. I will be swapping the corridor tender for a non corridor one from an A4 kit I have too.

[Blakey boy]

One thing I did notice was the cab window frames as some of us on the Gauge O Guild website/forum have gone for putting the frames with the wider band on the inside of the cab. ie reverse of what you have done.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh12 ... CT0050.jpg

Although the above are not my photos, I will be posting some in the near future.

Cheers

Bob

[61650GTFC]

There was a big discussion on the RMWEB forum about the windows. Most people seemed to agree that the should be on the way I have put them but thinned down somewhat. I am still unsure. I may eventually take them off and replace them with some half round beading wire which looks more protoypical.

[Points]

Does anyone on here know the exact length of the Footplate on the actual 4472?

[Blakey boy]

From the Boiler Backhead or the front cab plate with the spectacle type windows?

Cheers

Bob

[Points]

I'm not quite sure what your talking about, it's the long plate item in issue 2 I'm on about which is the Footplate.

A right hotch-potch of a mess is this kit with problem after problem to sort out from day 1, wait until you find that the drive wheels foul with the footplate and the drive wheel spalsh guards don't centrally align with wheels!

I've read on another rail forum that there is to be some kind of a fix coming along in mag 52, it had better be a good one otherwise I'm dumping this half baked effort

[Blakey boy]

in that case i had better put it all on hold ufn.

cheers

bob

[Points]

A wise move, also be careful with the coupling rod drilling instructions, the mag tells you to drill them out to 2.6mm yet the drive wheel bushes the rods sit on are 2.4mm and the coupling rods fit theses bushes fine WITHOUT drilling out, if you do then you'll end up with seriously sloppy coupling rods only fit for the scrap bin

Have you seen the latest small print twist they've added into issue 44?

"Please note that the model is designed primarily for static display. The motor set provided is intended only to demonstrate movement of your model over the limited length of track as supplied and is not suitable for use on longer tracks or circuit."

[Blakey boy]

Points

I have already purchased and installed a Roxey Mouldings box and Mashima motor, Slaters sprung hornblocks & pickups, all wired for the princely sum of £50 inc p&p. It works well so far and has saved between £35 and £85 depending if you took up the special offer or not.

RA Penfold produced a Babini book on model railway electronics which i used for my controller and already have the track.

Funny how small print is overlooked. The next 4 parts 36 to 39 are due this week, so I may do a mock up on the rear end of the plate totry and evaluate/assess any fitting probs.

Cheers

Bob

[Points]

The small print look's suspicious like there trying to cover here backs, why would they suddenly insert it now at 44 weeks down the line?

Great to hear of the mod's your doing, I'm waiting for #52 to see what they have in mind to sort the footplate problems out

[Blakey boy]

Points

I have used rivets on the boiler from www.scalehardware.com. 0.7mm for the top and the front of the firebox wher it joins the boiler, 0.5mm rivets on the first band on the firebox from the cab end. I will later drill the chassis for some 1mm rivets.

I still have to get some measurements before I proceed.

I will keep one and all appraised as I progress.

Cheers

Bob

[Bill Bedford]

There was a big discussion on the RMWEB forum about the windows. Most people seemed to agree that the should be on the way I have put them but thinned down somewhat. I am still unsure. I may eventually take them off and replace them with some half round beading wire which looks more protoypical.

There was indeed a half round beading around the outside of the window cut outs. On the inside the rear light was in a sliding frame that past behind the forward light.