Atlantic's works: Portable layout - Scenic details next

[Atso]

That K2 really has taken shape quite quickly. I guess that (as with CAD) the time will be taken up with the detailing.

I'm wondering how you will tackle the footplate over the cylinder in resin? At only 8 thou I would guess this would be difficult to get to settle in the mould.

My N gauge 3D printed K2 left that particular feature out. However, the body has a tendency to warp slightly around this area so I'm looking to redesign it with a representation of the cylinders as an integral piece (approximate 1mm thick). This is dependent on how much I can file off of the donor chassis's cylinder block to get everything to fit. If successful, I'm considering the same approach for the standard C1 as I've had similar problems on my previous attempts at this loco class as well.

[Atlantic 3279]

That thin area had made me think a bit too. Although I haven't done so yet, this chassis which lives under one of my K3s not being the one that I shall actually use, I think the answer is to file away the top of the cylinder moulding, all bar the outer edge (or take of the whole top then add a new taller wrapper) so that a thick piece of running plate can sit hidden behind the upper edge of the cylinder wrapper.

I haven't yet hacked the rear end off the chassis that I do intend to use, as I wanted to prove that the scheme for the K2 body was viable before killing off my V1.....

[davidwest]

Graeme, I have to ask, will the K2 be something you can sell in the future?

[Atso]

Hi Graeme,

That's an idea I'd not thought of... Most certainly this would work with my reconsidered donor chassis; the Farish B1 with it's underscale (5'10") wheels. Unfortunately for me such a dodge wouldn't be successful on a C1...

Back in my teens I modelled in OO and had a go at making a K3 out of a B17 body and V1 chassis. I don't remember parting with it so it may be possible that I've still got the V1 chassis, with the rear already hacked off. I'd hate to see you sacrifice your V1 needlessly so would be happy to have a look to is if I've still got it somewhere if you're interested...

[john coffin]

Graeme, whilst i understand the concern about your being able to undertake the work to complete a London Road Models K2, there is one idea you might be able to borrow from Malcolm Crawley. Why not put a slightly thicker metal plate over the cylinders between the plates. Actually just like the real thing, and it should be possible to cast it in with your resin surely?

Same thing could be applied to a C1, it seems to me. Even for 2mm. It seems illogical to not use other materials if they add to the overall picture and model. Understanding a little of the process of 3d printing, one could surely interrupt the process when up to the level of the cylinder tops, and then insert a metal plate of the requisite size and then build up around it again???

Paul

[Atlantic 3279]

A spare, ready chopped V1 chassis certainly wouldn't hurt.

I think we are all having ideas along similar lines here. I've already planned to borrow at least one idea from the LRM body structure in this area - the piston valve front extension covers will become part of the body structure, butting up tightly agains the fronts of the main cylinder bodies on the chassis. I'll certainly be aiming to cast in some metal (probably thick brass wire or thin rod, call it what you will) to strengthen critical parts of the area below the smokebox which will have to be thin in order to fit the chassis. As I need to actually be able to build the perilously thin area just under the front of the smokebox in such a way that it starts out straight and rigid as well as staying that way until completion of the master and during the mould making process, last night I spent some time sawing and filing out that part of the main frames from 15 thou nickel silver. I got them as I wanted them in the end, but there was a fair amount of quiet cursing as I broke several piercing saw blades, then as I was almost at the end of the sawing process the frames twisted free of the clamp holding them. They fell into the depths of the kitchen bin which I then had the pleasure of emptying in order to find them! I could have cut them out of plastic in a tenth of the time.....

[Atlantic 3279]

Graeme, I have to ask, will the K2 be something you can sell in the future?

Maybe, but the cab will have to change from being a straight copy of somebody else's product.....

[Atso]

Graeme, I've sent you a PM.

[Atlantic 3279]

Message received, will reply later.

A reward for digging those frame extensions out of the foulness of the kitchen bin, then spending much of last evening taking much care to solder more pieces up straight and square:

And after reversibly removing the valve chest extensions form my test chassis cylinders, then cutting a piece out of the lower front running plate for clearance:

TTFN

[S.A.C. Martin]

Another fantastic use of resources there Graeme. I am astounded at how the Bachmann V3 chassis can be used for this. I wonder if the new chassis (if it ever arrives) could be used for this too.

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

Great work, and brilliant for picking up new techniques.

Earlswood nob

[Atlantic 3279]

It is vastly easier to make quick progress now that completion of a sufficient metal skeleton has allowed me switch to filling in details with plasticard. Smokebox wrappers have been added and a straight bottom edge to the boiler re-established, allowing the old wheel cut-outs and other unwanted holes or divots in the boiler to be patched up with car body filler. I've constructed a smokebox saddle, with concave sides and have boxed in the area ahead of this between the frames. Shallow splashers and some additional material to hide the OO gauge wheel tops have been added to the running plate. The covers for the various operating rods on the lower parts of the firebox sides have been added too, these proving very handy as a means of hiding the former B17 wheel cut-outs in this area. The boiler still isn't attached to the running plate but the presence of the saddle, the long splashers and those covers for the operating rods now keys the two separate items together quite nicely. I feel this project is definitely on course now. I even managed to get my substantial spillage of super glue over something rather less valuable and vulnerable than this partly finished model....

[manna]

G'day Gents

A K2, yummmm, now that you've done the easy bit ........the valve gear, to me is the hard bit

Watching, eagerly, manna

[Atlantic 3279]

Up to and including that previous picture I had the K2 cab held in place on the running plate by a single tack-soldered joint. I needed it there to act as a datum or reference for setting up the position of the boiler. With the boiler now arranged to fit much as it should I was able to turn to the arrangements for making the cab suitable for separate duplication in resin and for simple, reliable re0-fitting to the running plate. It also needed a floor that would also serve as (or accommodate) splashers for the rear coupled wheels. With the boiler still in its proper position I began by holding the cab firmly in place, held square against the rear of the boiler, then scribed the running plate to show the correct position of the cab front. The cab was then detached and its inner faces covered with layers of plastikard, adding 30 thou to the thickness of the sides and 40 thou to the front. I also cut away the lower central part of the cab front to ensure adequate clearance over the chassis block. starting with the lowest, flat rear portion, a cab floor was then built up in plastic layers on the running plate. Wheel cut-outs were built in and the overall size and position of the cab floor arranged so that the cab would simply plug back in place:

Plastikard was then also used to build up the thickness of the front portion of the running plate on its underside, to thicken the buffer beam, to add the lower frame profiles and (where possible) to insert fillets in corners or angles where these were required either for appearance or for strength in a future resin duplicate. I haven't quite filled the full width of the void between the square bars forming the valances as I'll want to be able to slot some thin plastic in place immediately behind the valances at a later stage. That will allow me to arrange for mould halves to part along a line that will leave any casting flash in positions from which it can be removed easily. In due course I'll fill the space under the rest of the running plate in the same way, leaving similar slots just behind the valances.

The brass chimney that I was previously using for illustrative purposes was too tall for a 1930s K2, and not quite tall enough to be a GNR version. Whilst the whitemetal one now substituted isn't nearly so crisp, it is about the right 1930s height and is the right style. It might be a touch wide. I can't remember whether this is a Dave Alexander K4 chimney or one of the alternatives from a Little engines D10 kit. I have some chimneys and smokebox doors on order from Dave so I'll have a clearer idea when those arrive.

[LNER4479]

Wow - you've been busy. Looking good, Houston.

And congrats on 250 pages. No.251 to follow... (that number rings a bell...?)