Y7 Progress + Chaldron

[richard]

I haven't posted any modelling progress for a while, so I think it is time for a couple more pictures.

The Y7 progresses. It might not look like I've made much more progress, but in reality a lot has happened. The smokebox has been assembled and attached to the body along with the boiler and side tanks. The chassis also rolls and has the motor attached and working.
Next are the brake parts on the chassis, the whitemetal parts, steps, and buffers. Extras include smokebox valves (to be fitted next) and dumb buffers. The Connoisseur whitemetal buffers are being replaced with Fourtrack sprung ones, but I shall probably have to turn these down slightly so that they fit the small buffer beam on the Y7.

I've also just "completed" an NER P1 Chaldron. Yes a lot smaller than the other kind of P1 which has been discussed in the modelling forum recently . This is the Gladiator model. Going by discussions on the 7mm listserver, it sounds like this is a kit which has been passed around the different manufacturers. Gladiator also sell a similar "General Purpose" chaldron - I have yet to find a prototype that matches it.
The chaldron is whitemetal. This was the first whitemetal soldering that I've attempted - and I would recommend this kit for anyone else wanting to try their hand at whitemetal soldering.

Paint was etch primer spray, followed by "Engine Black" spray. This is far too plain. I should have brushed the black on - perhaps I'll brush humbol matt black next time I build one. It needs decals. Chaldrons were very simple with a colliery mark (often just a single letter) and number. As this is for the Aberford stuff - I'll go for a large serif "G" (for Gascoigne - the owners). The picture of what are probably P2s at Aberford look to be marked with a large "C" or "G" and I can't think what "C" would stand for!
Then the chaldron needs to be really duffed up. Suggestions for serious chaldron weathering appreciated. I have grey charcoals, paints, washes, etc. I guess like a lot of weathering, it is easy to fix mistakes.

The other wagon is another Slaters 20 ton NER hopper. This time there are outside W-irons - these really have to be assembled with solder. CA doesn't hack it. I think I rushed the body and base as there's a slight wobble when on the track.

Richard

[Atso]

Hi Richard, I'd noticed it'd been awhile since you'd posted on this forum - gad to see you're still modelling!

The models are looking really good, are you still pursuing n gauge or is it just 7mm now?

[wehf100]

so this is what you've been up to!

I love those chaldrons, and although they were used in the very early days all across the country, I think NER was the only one using them by the 20th century, so I cannot really justify a rake. Nice models, do you need special inside bearing wheels?

Will

[mick b]

Hi
Coming on nicely. I strongly recomend you stick with spraying the models and then weather to taste afterwards. You will get a much better base colour than by brush painting ( in my opinion!!)

Mick

[richard]

Atso: Yes I'm still in the local N club. Just more RTR these days. After saying that I've just bought some tiny Japanese Pro Models motor chassis for things like my Toby/Y6 and perhaps a new Sentinel...

Mick: Definitely agree for most things. But even for chaldrons? These were painted with tar, so brush strokes should be visible! lol
I'll see how I can weather them down.

Some chaldrons survived to the 1960s at Seaham Harbour, so there's an excuse. The problem is that they were banned on public railways from about 1914 due to their dumb buffers.


Richard

[richard]

Will: No, they're standard Slaters "split spoke" wheels. You simply pull the wheels off the axle, and then cut the ends off the axle with a Dremel or similar rotary tool.

From what I've seen, chaldrons used a wide range of cast wheel types, but the split spokes are the closest to what is probably the most common design on NER P1s.

I don't have any bearings, but I'll probably put some grease or oil on the axles.


Richard

[richard]

Here's the latest progress on the body.

The chassis hasn't made an visible progress. Sanding gear and brakes still need to be attached.
The body needs the handrail to be attached, as well as the cab interior. The cab interior is waiting until after painting. I shall also be adding dumb buffers.

Other custom modifications include a removable cab roof, smokebox valves, working sprung buffers, and a different kind of handrail knob.

Photo taken outside in natural sunlight filtered through the outer band of Hurricane Ike


Richard

[Rlangham]

Fantastic - that Y7 is gorgeous! Is it the Coinnosseur one? I've noticed from their website they don't seem to make 4mm models any more. I'm still planning at some point to make an NER layout, and would love a Y7 and an ES1 - problem is, Y7 only seems to be available in 3mm, and ES1 in 4mm! (And no, 7mm is waaay too large!)

[richard]

Thanks!
My first brass kit

Yes this is the Connoisseur 7mm model.

A layout for a Y7 doesn't have to be very big. My current board is 4ft x 2ft6 and I plan to add an extension. Still don't know quite what I'm doing yet, but the total length will probably be in the 8-10ft range.

Can't think of an excuse for an ES1. Probably next year will be a Connoisseur G5 or one of the Agenoria large MW 0-6-0STs (painted as one of the EWYUR examples although Agenoria don't have an exact match). Really my source of inspiration ran MW Class H and 'New I' 0-4-0STs. Smaller. Options are Springside or Slaters. The Slaters looks better but doesn't have a motor option and is not for beginners. So next is something with more axles for practice! I'm also taking quite a liking to early Fletcher & Bouch NER designs - so if I see a kit for something like a '1001', I wouldn't need much persuading!


Richard

[wehf100]

looking very nice. I really miss my boxed up 7mil stuff as 'my' workroom is in use for other things!

I haven't seen the Slaters M-W 0-4-0, or heard anything of it's complexity. I must admit I have really fancied one, I believe it is mainly etched brass and presumably slaters could point one in the direction of a suitable motor? I'd be interested to see what others think,

I also believe, whilst were talking about Manning Wardle, that S&D mouldings produces an I and K class. Given everything else they make I assume this is whitemetal? anyone know ANYTHING about them?!

Will

[industrial]

The S&D web site is http://www.sanddmodels.co.uk and they are now cast in lead-free pewter.

[richard]

Thanks for the link.

Sorry - I meant "Class H" rather than "Class K".

H & "New I" were both 0-4-0STs. K and "Old I" were 0-6-0STs.


Richard