Atlantic's works: Portable layout - Scenic details next

[LNER4489]

It's even possible it was also built by another King. My grandfather King worked at Paxman's, and was involved in the building of 3 of the RH&DR locos. I know one of them was a 4-6-2, as my brother had one set of the original drawings, which he has since given to the RH&DR. Whether this 8 coupled one was also from Paxman's I don't know, but fitting for Atlantic to know of a King connection.

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all
The Ravenglass is a railway that I've never visited, but it must be good walking country and real ale country pubs add to the attraction. However, I've seen Hercules many times on the RHDR, so I'm reluctant to travel to the north west to see something that is often nearer home.
I think the chime whistle on Cock 'o the North came from the Romney, Hythe & Dymchrch railway.

Earlswood nob

[Flying Fox 34F]

I just had to find my old Bachmann V2 (one for three oo gauge locos I still own) and all I can say about all these improvements is wow! You've really captured the look of the V2 here Graeme and I'm sure that many other modellers in 4mm are very happy that you're prepared to make your work available for the benefit of others!

Top marks here!

I'm yet to tackle valve gear in N gauge but the time is fast approaching where I won't be able to. How easy is it to assemble valve gear? Do you solder the pins (and if so how do you get working clearances?) or do you use rivets?

Many thanks

Steve,
Some assemble valve gear with rivets, others use wire and solder and occasional some use screws.
For a running fit use a piece of oiled paper between the two rods you wish to join. It stops the solder making it a solid joint. You can just tear it away afterwards
Paul 4475

[Atlantic 3279]

In case anyone is wondering, I haven't given up actual railway model making! I'm getting on quietly as and when possible with castings for loads of those hopper wagons, making moulds for additional GN brake van parts and for inside-bearing chassis for small LNER tenders, PLUS I've started trying to investigate and prepare for a Walschaerts valve gear conversion on a Cock o' the North chassis. Oh, and I'm trying to make a mould for some cylinders to suit that too, Geoff Brewin having sadly left this world curtailing availability of Comet parts for the time being at least.
I'll endeavour to produce picture updates when I can. Lots of other stuff going on outside the controllable world of model railways at present too.

[mick b]

Graeme
As I have missed out for now on the P2 what are your impressions ?. Other than pictures of a modified Railroad version on the other side their has been very little to read about the actual loco other than " I have got one" which means zip !!

[notascoobie]

In case anyone is wondering, I haven't given up actual railway model making! I'm getting on quietly as and when possible with castings for loads of those hopper wagons, making moulds for additional GN brake van parts and for inside-bearing chassis for small LNER tenders, PLUS I've started trying to investigate and prepare for a Walschaerts valve gear conversion on a Cock o' the North chassis. Oh, and I'm trying to make a mould for some cylinders to suit that too, Geoff Brewin having sadly left this world curtailing availability of Comet parts for the time being at least.
I'll endeavour to produce picture updates when I can. Lots of other stuff going on outside the controllable world of model railways at present too.

Graeme,

The stuff you brought along to EXPO North last weekend reflecets what you've posted above. Looking forward to seeing a long long train of A-F hoppers!

Vernon

[will5210]

In case anyone is wondering, I haven't given up actual railway model making! I'm getting on quietly as and when possible with castings for loads of those hopper wagons, making moulds for additional GN brake van parts and for inside-bearing chassis for small LNER tenders, PLUS I've started trying to investigate and prepare for a Walschaerts valve gear conversion on a Cock o' the North chassis. Oh, and I'm trying to make a mould for some cylinders to suit that too, Geoff Brewin having sadly left this world curtailing availability of Comet parts for the time being at least.
I'll endeavour to produce picture updates when I can. Lots of other stuff going on outside the controllable world of model railways at present too.

I'd be interested in suitable tender chassis for the 3500 gallon tenders as I'll need a few of those. I have a master for the body almost ready, but my efforts with the chassis leave a bit to be desired.

Will

[Atlantic 3279]

Graeme
As I have missed out for now on the P2 what are your impressions ?. Other than pictures of a modified Railroad version on the other side their has been very little to read about the actual loco other than " I have got one" which means zip !!

Hi Mick,

Time permitting, I'll post up some notes on the P2 thread later today, unless Simon has already managed to cover all points in his promised review. I won't be able to address every detail, but I might have some useful things to say, probably a few useless remarks too - NOT that the model is useless in any way. It's very good. Smart but simple.

I wish car manufacturers would learn something from Hornby on this one, and offer versions of not just their smallest cars but also their bigger ones that still look the part and go properly, but which are free of all of the costly complications, electronics, un-necessary gimmick features, assisters for the lazy (like power windows, power mirror tweakers and power seat adjusters), multi-strategy "safety" equipment (which we may not want if we drive competently and attentively and don't therefore crash), and which therefore appear on the market at a very affordable price rather than requiring a mortgage to buy them!

*P2 comments now posted in the relevant thread, as of 4-53pm.

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all

How I echo your comments GK.
My old vehicle has given up the struggle to keep going, and I'm looking for a replacement. I don't need loads of expensive gimmicks, put there to impress people. I just need a car that will start when I turn the key, and gets me from A to B, sometimes C.
It's the same with phones, they have many gadgets put there to impress people, but are seldom used. I have one that makes and receives phone calls (and occasional texts). My camera takes pics and my Ipod plays music, so why would I need a phone that does these things.
I feel the much same way about DCC. It's impressive, but the benefits are small compared to the cost involved. I would sooner spend the money that DCC costs, on new stock. I know I would get more enjoyment from the new stock, and I probably get more enjoyment operating switches to control power feeds to track, than I would operating a DCC controller.

End of rant

Earlswood nob

[S.A.C. Martin]

I have a review written up and ready to go but was waiting on the main range one to assess that and the Railroad model in one go. Hattons have promised delivery this week so time permitting it'll go up on Friday or Saturday next week. However please don't hold back Graeme - I'd love to read your comments and views too, particularly of interest in the walschaerts valve gear area. One thing I can say is that I'm not convinced Hornby designed 2001 to be used as a basis for any of the others aside from the obvious tender frames, die cast chassis, wheels and motor arrangement. Almost everything else including the body shell would need outright replacing for an RTR version of the streamlined ones - and then which one do you tool up…?

[teaky]

"... and then which one do you tool up…?"

Wolf Of Badenoch. That has to be the most marketable name of the remaining P2s.

[Atlantic 3279]

A couple of recent new pieces of resin casting, one of which should have been done a long while ago, i.e. inner ends, axleboxes, stepboards and brake shoes for a GNR brake van whose main outer shell I managed to cast in one piece some time back.....

White Toblerone? Or a basic inside frame for a tender?

Some cylinders. If you can guess the parentage that's fine - just don't tell anybody!

[S.A.C. Martin]

Looks like it's come off a certain Prairie arrangement locomotive of a Gresley variation…

Really nice work Graeme. Intrigued by the tender frames - what potential tender type/s are they for?

[Atlantic 3279]

On to something much more highly topical. The Hornby P2, or more specifically conversion of the chassis to P2/2 or P2/3 guise:

Firstly the chassis weight has to come off. This requires complete removal of the deeply recessed screws fore and aft of the DCC gubbins plate. The front of the weight will then lift and the tabs at its rear will unhook from the front of the gear/motor housing. Unless you disconnect the wires to the DCC gubbins you can only lay the weight aside rather than remove it entirely from the chassis, but that's not a problem either way.

The cylinders and Lentz gearboxes / shafts can then be removed. That's dead easy. The upper gearboxes need only be eased outward from the chassis sides until they pop off the cast outriggers, the crankpin screws in the big ends must be undone to release these from the wheels (take care to save the screws, the return cranks and the spacer rings), then the rear of the cylinder moulding can be lifted upwards (it will probably be quite tight and reluctant to release at first) thus unhooking the cylinder stretcher from its slot in the chassis top.

The bare top of the main chassis block sits to high to allow one of mine and Morgan's A2 motion brackets to fit directly. I found that 1.5mm square brass was ideal for the purposes of lowering the relevant parts of the bracket so as to fit snug below the running plate. Two strips of the brass soldered to the top of the original etched stretcher, just far enough apart to straddle the chassis block, a new piece of nickel silver sheet soldered across the middle, and then the central part of the original stretcher sawn away, creates this:

A near-likeness to the original Hornby cylinder stretcher can be made up from a couple of layers of 30 thou plasticard (for the transverse top piece). The side plates onto which the cylinders can be stuck need to be just far enough apart to straddle the wide part of the chassis block near the front of the loco, and for the cylinders that I used they needed to be 70 thou thick in order to space the cylinders out. the cylinders of course are the resin ones pictured in the previous post, simply sawn from their original stretcher. The butt joints at the corners of this new plastic stretcher gave me cause for concern (in principle) regarding strength. Although they seemed firm when the solvent had done its job, I was relieved to find that because the rear part of the stretcher fit over a narrower part of the chassis, a little bit of reinforcement can be sneaked into the internal angles of the stretcher joints towards its rear. A metal stretcher would be stronger still, but I think this may suffice.

The cylinders need to be bonded on so that they leave about 3mm clearance under the original Cock o' the North straight running plate, and of course they must be inclined to line up the drive onto the second coupled axle.

The exact fore/aft position for the motion bracket has yet to be determined. I've already cut out a section of the stretcher to clear the wiring in the chassis. If it has to move rearwards the fixing screw for the front of the chassis weight will also conflict with it. I'll sort that out as and when.....
At the moment, the stretcher is simply gripped in place when the weight is screwed down. The bottom of the weight may eventually be slotted to fit neatly over the stretcher.

[mick b]

Excellent work.