The LNER Encyclopedia

Evening all,

I'm starting a new thread to show progress on my next project. A Raven A2 Pacific built from a DJH kit. This weekend the tender has been built. Photos below. No real problems and as usual the DJH castings are brilliant. The tender axle boxes, buffer beam and handrails have been left off deliberately until after painting and lining. This is going to be fun as it will be the first time I've tried full LNER green livery.

cheers.....Morgan

So you are one of these disciplined and professional "tender first" merchants!I have never had the willpower! Seriously though,lovely looking job and very useful top me as I contemplate getting started in a few months.I must try to post a photo of my A2 "as is" for comparison purposes!Thanks for these Morgan.

They look excellent! I wish I had the patience to build locomotives, instead I'm going to try my hand at coach building.

Regards

Karl

where did you find the kit? I didn't know DJH made those anymore.

Hi Bass,

You're right DJH only released it as a limited edition of 175 kits, IIRC, back in late 80's early 90's. The example I'm building was picked up at an exhibition bring and buy stall. It certainly wasn't cheap but given it's rarity probably about right.

Hi Rob,

Only tender first because this looked like one I could get done in a weekend. A Bradwell GS tender, on the other hand, is a totally different kettle of fish. Would be interested to see your Raven before you get on with rescuing it. Maybe this thread will see you itching to get started?

Cheers....Morgan

Hello Morgan,I will try to get photos of my example posted before too long.I need a nice sunny day though.......!Lookl forward to more from your side!

Hello again,

Here are some progress pictures of the A2. Frames have been erected and the basic parts of the running plate and cab are together. If there is any criticism of the kit it is the etched parts. My experience of most DJH kits is first class castings but sometimes iffy etchings. Most fold lines need to be opened up with a file and in some cases a lot of forethought is required when holding parts for soldering due to the lack of tabs or self jigging features in the etch design. It really makes you appreciate the designers art in some of the more modern kits.

Cheers....Morgan

Morgan,
Looks great, and I agree with your point re the etchings from DJH,some very "chunky" as well, I think they reflect the period they were developed in, possibly modellers used to gigantic whitemetal castings needed reassurance that this etched stuff was strong enough! What always surprised me was that these kits did not eventually join the regular range, given the obvious effort which went into them. The biggest problem with my sample is that the footplate is really distorted and it seems to be a building error,the chap who found it for me thinks the saddle could be in the wrong way round-again I will be studying your photos carefully, please try to remember what you are doing!
The kit was built to run around set track I think-the cylinders are packed out and the centre wheels are flangeless-I must try to source a pair of the old Romfords if possible.
The way this is built is the exact opposite to my usual approach-fully detailed,lampirons,cab doors,fallplate,brakegear,but all added to a very warped basic assembly-pretty awful job,but oddly it runs well!The red lining is well done too-professional paint job on an amateurish build?
Seeing your progress tempts me to start,despite all the plywood and 2x1 delivered last Sat,which should be my priority!You will of course be held responsible if I start to dismantle the A2,becoming obsessively absorbed...........

Hi Rob,

Some interesting pictures of your A2. I can see what you mean about the distorted running plate. I'm not sure the shape of the smokebox saddle is the problem because this part is symmetrical. However it could be too tall. When I offered up the saddle and boiler to the running plate assembly last night it looked like the boiler was sloping down slightly towards the cab front. Removing a bit of material from the underside should sort it out. I am planning to make the boiler and saddle a sub assembly that can be unbolted for painting.

Some other possible reasons for the distorted running plate could be,

1. The joint between the front and rear running plate castings in between the frames around the leading splashers. This needed quite a bit of fettling to get the parts to sit together squarely.

2. The top of the cylinders pushing up the front running plate. I have had to remove a bit of material underneath the running plate with a dental burr.

There are a couple of other points I should have mentioned in the last posting. The cab etching needed a bit of fettling at the front where the sandbox extensions fit into the rear running plate step. Once I was happy with this I soldered the cab in place (rather than bolting as per the instructions). With a bit of luck you might be able to just unscrew some of your loco.

Positively it looks like the chassis has been built up OK and, I guess, this accounts for the good running. You are right about the cylinders being spaced out. There is an option for adding some extra whitemetal spacing washer in the kit. However if you use these you can't fit the front footsteps because the slidebars get in the way. I noticed your A2 hasn't got any front footsteps.

It certainly looks like a worthwhile project to do a rescue job on and I can live with the burden of responsibility if you can't resist the distraction. As they say over your way.... go on, go on, go on......

Cheers....Morgan

Hi
Very nice pictures. A A2 has just sold for £200 on Ebay so well worth rescuing!!
The built loco isnt too well?, I noticed that the roof is out of shape as well. It hasnt been dropped at some time?
I have a A2/3 which also had some problems with fit. On this one the front frames ended uo with a huge gap between them and the bogie. I ended up making a false plastic frame to hide the gap. It may be a common DJH problem?
Anyway they are better than the dire Wills rebuilt W1 I am building at present. Dire castings and nothing fitted without much filing fettling etc etc
I will post some W1 in due course. I have just cocked up the smokebox curve transfer and am awating a new one from Fox transfers so its in the corner in disgrace!!!

regards Mick

I've just offered up the cast roof to the cab sides and it is at least 1mm too wide. Look at the overhang on the right hand side. That's not easy to rectify as you would have to remove the cast detail from the top before trimming and then have to put it all back on. I think I'll make a new one out of brass.

Look forward to seeing the W1.

Morgan,
Thanks for the clear and detailed advice on the saddle etc,thats exactly what I'm after,I will look out for all these points.I hate having to rout out solid footplates,but if thats what it takes!I will be using this thread alongside the instructions thats for sure.
I do get the impression that construction is not too robust,hopefully involves a lot of glue,but the safety valves and dome are soldered with what looks like electrical solder,so there might be some unpleasant surprises hidden elsewhere-there usually are!
The cylinders are spaced with what look like 2 6BA washers which probably explains the footsteps left off-I will see if I can reinstate them but I think I will still be pushing the cyls out a bit for my radius' so it may not work.What the photos don't highlight is the bends in the connecting rods to make them fit!They are quite distorted and will need some tlc.
Mick,I think the roof was a postal! It stems from the cab sides being bent in quite badly around the windows-this arrived as job with some old GEM C10's in odd boxes and it may have got crushed.Or perhaps it was one mans way of solving the ill-fitting roof-bend the rest of the thing until the roof fits!-you haven't consider that solution yet Morgan?:twisted: I must admit I've been close to it with some kits in the past!
Disappointing to hear the Wills W1 was ill-fitting,they are usually top-notch in all respects.I have built the somewhat archaic A1/A3 kit with the excellent etched chassis and found the castings fitted very well despite their elderly origins.I have an A4 to go,hope it won't present the same issues but as its from the same era as the A1 I expect it should fit well.The W1 should be well worth the effort though-a most handsome machine,love to see photos, Garter Blue or Brunswick Green?

Hi
The W1 is in Garter Blue post war condition. She will have no valances and Stainless Steel Letters and Numbers.
I was caught out when I first built her as I was naive to think it all fitted!! The worst part is the cab sides to roof / boiler. They werent even close much bending and the problem solved. I was lucky to have a old etched front window surrounds to work too. Thses made reshaping the castings much easier. I dont know if anyone still makes them?
You will also have to be careful with the smokebox area not much better , but nothing that cannot be solved!!
On the plus side the etched chassis is a easy build and she runs very well. I will post some pictures over weekend.

Mick

W1 so far





Bogies are not fixed in photos. Needs lettering ,buffers, drain cocks and satin varnish to finish.
I have added replacement lamp irons, etched tender rear steps, mudhole covers/inspection covers (kits are shapeless blobs) and some other details. Body colour is darker in real life.

Mick

Hi Mick,
That's a really nice looking model. It should look fantastic when the lettering etc... is on.
Morgan