The LNER Encyclopedia

Ay up!

Welcome to the first instalment of a new thread where I go through, step by step, various methods and skills needed to move on from RTR and start building.

Let me say right now that there is nothing wrong with RTR. If that's what you want, fine. But you will need to learn to solder to connect wires up, fitting skills are useful whether you make your own buildings from scratch or kit, or use ready to plant items.

I hope to teach some skills with this and pass on a few tips along the way.

Intitially I will be looking at loco chassis and their repair and maintenance.

See y'all!

I wonder BB, could we add snippets of various methods and processes to add to the whole 'helping beginners' theme?

i.e - I could give a run through of putting Hornby's 'Mallard' into preserved condition

Ay up!

Why not, Blackout!

In fact, why don't you go first while I sort out the 1st installment?

I'll get some photos ready

Here we go, the first 'Back to Basics' article;

Converting the Hornby 'OO' gauge R2339 LNER A4 4468 'Mallard' to preserved condition. All the changes are based off of close up examination of the locomotive and various photographs.

As far as I'm aware, my Mallard is the only Hornby 'OO' gauge Mallard in this condition, so it would be great to see some more! The great gathering range Mallard is still incorrect, it's only difference from the standard range model being printed record plates on the boilerside.

The plates:

The model is supplied with printed nameplates on plastic backing, which are easily prized off with a sharp craft knife. Be careful that you don't nick the paintwork with the blade. These were replaced with etched plates from 247 developments, which also included the record plates. Also purchased from 247 developments were Doncaster works plates.

To attach these, I used regular loctite superglue. If used 'straight out the bottle' it sets too quickly. I leave my tube of superglue on my windowsill behind a closed blind to perish for a little bit to make it tacky. This causes it to take around a minute to set when applied. Alternatively and much more recommended, you can use varnish to attach plates, which is a much safer method.

The paint:

I used Humbrol metal 56 to paint the wheel tyres, lamp irons, handrails and trailing truck axle boxes, all applied with a thin brush. Revell 94 bronze was used to paint the cab spectacle plates (forward window frames) to put them into the correct bronze condition. Use a small brush and lightly dab the paint on, using tissue paper to remove any excess.

The gloss:

The highly tempermental Humbrol 49 matt varnish was used on my loco, and was applied thinly to the whole locomotive - this emulates the highly polished sheen of the real locomotive. If like me, you intend to run the loco, do not varnish the wheels. Ensure that you use a brnad new pot of the varnish and brand new brushes. Mix the varnish well and throughly wash the new brush before use.

These alterations will cost around £15 to do.
Using these instructions and refrencing these photos, you should end up with an almost perfect preserved Mallard

I am sorry to say this but my straight out of the box untouched Mallard looks much nicer!

If it works - don't fix it!

Keep an open mind an all....

A lot of work has gone into this loco. Even have a look at this comparison photo (taken before I noticed the trailing truck axle boxes needed painting)

Blackout60800 wrote:Using these instructions and refrencing these photos, you should end up with a perfect preserved Mallard

Not forgetting, of course, to remove the motor...

Nah, just need to put a crack in the motor's casing

Saint Johnstoun wrote:I am sorry to say this but my straight out of the box untouched Mallard looks much nicer!

I think we have an illustration here of why these "how to" threads, started with an honest objective, can be hi-jacked by one persons contrary opinion, and decent people will soon give up.

Can we all see a photo of this "much nicer" Mallard and make up our own minds please?

Or will your subjective decision be final?

Remember, close up camera views can be very harsh to the critical eye - especially when flash is used, or badly set up lighting. I doubt that anyone is actually going to be getting the same image in reality.

Saint Johnstoun wrote:I am sorry to say this but my straight out of the box untouched Mallard looks much nicer!

Whether or not it looks 'nicer' is irrelevant. Blackout has chosen to depict Mallard in a particular condition, rather than being happy with a generic out-of-the-box product. This approach is entirely consistent with the aims of this thread, as set out in the OP.

If the only purpose of a model is to look 'nice', then why do so many people go to great lengths to make them look 'mucky'?

As a complete novice on matters relating to how to go railway modelling, any contribution is very useful to me, even the differences of opinion expressed are useful. It's all part of the growing "free" encyclopedia of knowledge on this site.

I leave it to the personal choice of the locomotive owner, but why mutilate a Mallard with brush applied varnish when the out of the box product is fine? Apart from the Commemorative Plates (not accurate for loco in 1938 condition) what else can one improve on?

Presumably the answer would be - to make it look more like the real thing:-

http://www.flickr.com/photos/82887550@N00/6026101312/

Saint Johnstoun wrote:but why mutilate a Mallard with brush applied varnish

That is because thinned varnish sprayed on would not create an accurate effect of the condition of the real locomotive's casing, which is much less than perfectly smooth