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Kit Building
Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 9:50 pm
by CVR1865
ok so heres the thing, i've been kit building for about three years, i've rattled off plenty of plasgtic coaches and wagons. I've even dabbled in the arts of white metal wagons, but i when it comes to brass, well i struggle.
I've bluffed my way through building a brake van and a 4 wheel coach but i want to build loco's, yet i don't have a clue. Right from the folding of various parts without them creasing to how you get two pieces of Brass to stay together. Help me please i don't want to make a mess of a very expensive loco kit.
Also this may help other modellers as i am sure (or atleast i hope) there are many out there who are equally stumped.
Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 10:05 pm
by richard
I think a lot of people use a resistance soldering iron.
I have a refurbished one (they're pretty pricey pieces of kit), but I've only really used it for track. I would definitely need some practice with pieces of fret before embarking on a kit.
Richard
Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 10:08 pm
by CVR1865
What do you mean by a resistance soldering iron. is that any different to a regular soldering iron?
Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 11:13 pm
by richard
Different to a normal thermal element soldering iron.
It has two electrodes in a 'plier' type arrangement. Clamp the electrodes either side of where you want your joint to be. Resistance in the metal causes it to heat up - quickly and localised. Touch the solder - and there you go!
Power is operated by a foot switch.
It could be that they're more popular here in the US than the UK - I know MicroMark (US mail order hobby tools) sell them. My refurbished one came from someone local who fixes them up.
Richard
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:58 pm
by 50A
Before you get too caught up with resistance soldering machines, you would be best advised to learn the basics of joining pieces of metal. There are several books on the subject that cover the techniques, but you will not beat one on one instruction with metal, flux, solder and an iron in front of you. It is far easier to demanstrate soldering than to try and explain it.
Are you a member of a model railway club? If so, ask around, someone will know how o solder and will prpbably be willing to show you. If you are not a member of a club, you may want to consider joining one - they are usually very willing to show you what to do.
If you are not looking to join a club, you could still search out your local model railway show. Most shows now have a demonstration section, with someone buiding brass coaches and locomotives - go along and ask all the questions you like, and don't think you will look stupid, we all have to learn sometime. (I was taught how to make circuit boards, and my instructor first told me that the soldering iron was very hot - you would be surprised how many people did not know that).
Lastly - best of luck with soldering - it is a skill that improves with practice, so start small and simple and build up to the fancy and intricate kits that look so superb in the model press.
Andy
Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 10:50 am
by daveinstoke
I would be tempted to get some sheet brass & have a go at making some of the shapes in the kit . Then practise soldering them. You will find your own tecnique that way. Plus you will not have the concerns about spoiling the kit at first.
Dave.
Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 3:06 pm
by bw1165
A good book on the subject is Etched Loco Construction by Iain Rice, which was published by Wild Swan. Not sure if it is in print, but if not you can get one second hand, no doubt.
A resistance soldering iron is an expensive investment, but I would not be without mine - however it is possible to manage without one, and the advice to join a club and find someone to tutor you is a sound alternative.
It is best to get hold of a good simple kit as a starting point. Good and simple don't necessarily mean cheap. Some makes of kit are really not for beginners, while others are just plain poorly designed.
If anyone wants a dead simple kit, not a loco, as a starting point, try the GCR brake van by D&S Models - it's O gauge, but I found it easier to put together than many a plastic brake van I have built!
Brian W