The LNER Encyclopedia

This is my first attemtpt at modelling wagons, I bought an LNER 20 ton hopper from slaters wagon kits and found there were no couplings supplied, I contacted slaters, who said that tension lock couplings are not available only three link couplings, can any body advise me on fitting couplings to this model bearing in mind that under side floor of the wagon is recessed and not flush with the solebar
Regards Mick

I assume this is 4mm?

Please can everyone explicitly say what scale they are talking about. For example Slaters make stuff in multiple scales and produce the NER 20 ton hoppers in two scales. Thanks.


Richard

Sorry yes it is 4mm

mickmatty wrote:This is my first attemtpt at modelling wagons, I bought an LNER 20 ton hopper from slaters wagon kits and found there were no couplings supplied, I contacted slaters, who said that tension lock couplings are not available only three link couplings, can any body advise me on fitting couplings to this model bearing in mind that under side floor of the wagon is recessed and not flush with the solebar

What's wrong with 3 link couplings? they are after all prototypical.

I recently completed a train of 12 of these, which I'd had sitting around for near enough twenty years. Years ago I settled on metal tension lock couplings from Hornby but unfortunately these are no longer made so for these wagons I used their plastic version, from one of the on line suppliers.

I usually make a plinth for the coupling out of layers of scrap plasticard sheet glued together and then use a self tapper to retain the coupling on that plus a drop of UHU to stop it moving.

For the hoppers I used some 2.5mm bolts through the base of the wagon and locked the coupling at the right height with a couple of nuts. As the wagons are loaded the screw head in the floor didn't matter too much. The newer plastic couplings have to be at exactly the correct height because you cannot bend them like the metal ones. I found that the locking bar of the coupling fouled the wooden end stanchions on some of my wagons in certain positions so these were chopped off below the buffer beams, which is what happened in real life anyway.

I really enjoy plastic wagon kits, usually built to my own (not too high!) standards and enjoy the challenge of getting them to run as well as the RTR offerings from Hornby etc. The unfortunate thing is that the makers can't cater for every type of coupling or even wheelsets that are around and sometimes it's a bit of a challenge to get it right.
Hope that's clear and helps a bit!

Steve

Thanks Steve I look foreward to having a go at that, not having done any modelling before it`s all a bit daunting, Bill mentioned using the prototypiccl three link, I would preferred to have done that but could not see how the links would couple up to the conventional couplings any thoughts on this?
Mick

You might not like the answer, but the usual solution to mixing couplings is to have a "conversion wagon" with different couplers on each end. This is my solution in N scale when I need to (rarely) couple knuckle coupler stock to rapido stock. Actually I only usually need to do this when I'm cleaning track.

(for 7mm I'm still on 3 link couplers, but will probably switch everything to an autocoupler like the Dingham)


Richard

Hi Mick,
3 link couplings are great on the real thing and look superb on models but they are not very practical unless you have very large radius curves and want to run your railway like the real thing. I prefer to play trains (thinks: if I ever get the layout finished). Don't get confused by all the coupling terminology, stick with the Hornby type tension lock (if that's what is on your other wagons) until it becomes a bit clearer, it's fairly straightforward to fit 3 links at a later time if you decide to go that way.
If the bug really bites you'll be fitting sprung buffers, etched brake gear, compensation units (suspension) and spending undisclosable amounts (time and money) on each wagon, then showing them off on here and making me jealous!

Steve

Buy some NEM Pockets from Parkside and some Hornby or Bachmann NEM couplings either shop or internet. Take a couple of mintutes to fix on.
Or 3 link if you are heading that way

Mick

Thanks gents I shall take all this on board.
Mick