The LNER Encyclopedia

Hello,
I have got to the final stages of a GNR 20 ton brake van build in OO, thanks to "Diagram3D.com" etched timber modelling kit. I purchased 2 of these (horizontal and vertical planked versions W001 and W002) before the vendor provided underfame parts. So anyone buying these kits now will get underframe, axle boxes and running steps in the kit. I have also suggested to the vendor that the instructions need to specify additions of weight to the interior at an early build stage before full enclosure. Sheet lead or lumps of plasticine would be ideal, before the model is enclosed. Of course I learned all this by mistake as usual.
I managed to fabricate an underframe from an Airfix brake van kit, and this gave me the foundation for suitable couplers. UNfortunately, it means that I used a steel underfame which is likely not according to the real van back in the day. And of course the axle boxes and springs are probably not true either. Anyway much of that is hidden under as they say. But there you have it.
Now I am at the stage where I need to add the handrails and I have 0.5mm brass wire for this task.
I am asking those of you who are well versed in this sort of thing how you might go about soldering up said wire into the correct shapes.
The reception holes are already etched into the sides, and I am of a mind to produce a wooden block of the same size as a jig - with holes into which I can locate the bent-to-size wire as a bed for soldering up. I am not sure that cross jointing or butt jointing this size wire for soldering is effective, and thus thinking that I might be better to use silver solder, which I can do.
Using such a block jig brings to mind that the kit vendor should have provided me with a paper template for same, though I suppose I can make my own template with paper and pin.
Any comment or help will be appreciated.

Diagram3D build


Märklin O gauge example


Real photos


Kimball

Adding handrails in nickel silver wire to the Parkside LNER B and a conversion to make an LNER E, I made a jig exactly as you propose and soft soldered, and it is all still together getting on twenty years later on both models. Silver solder will be more robust yet, so you have a superior option.

The Marklin model is rather good in the body department...

I have also managed to butt-joint nickel silver 0.45mm handrails by soft soldering. No template needed in fact, I found it could be done on the model itself, using card spacers to lift the rails off the side and support the T-joint in correct alignment, as well as to some extent insulating the van side from the heat of the iron. Yes, you might have guessed it, I did it on a plastic van body. Made in situ, there's no risk of breaking the joint when handling the rails as you try to fit them to the model. Make sure the wire is trimmed to exact length, properly cleaned up, fluxed in the right place, and the fully hot bit of the iron clean save for the little bit of solder that you are carrying to the joint. Also, obviously, don't dwell excessively with the iron. I had several attempts at some of the joints before I was satisfied, some not being quite truly aligned, some being laden with too much solder or unevenly soldered and then breaking as I tried to clean them up.
It may help to separately tin the wires in just the vicinity of the intended joint before trying to make that joint.

Thank you Hatfield Shed and Graeme for those insights.
I would prefer the in-situ method as less likely to damage in transfer to the model, but I will publish my results.

One more question.
Would the colour of the oil lamps on the upper sides be red, white or black?
The Märklin is black and I am inclined to go with that as being practical in real life not ever having to be cleaned.

regards
Kimball

Slaters ex NER Brake van with soldered Handrails all painted at the same time, much easier than afterwards.

kimballthurlow wrote: ↑Wed May 31, 2023 12:14 am ...Would the colour of the oil lamps on the upper sides be red, white or black?

They are not white in either of the photographs so it's a big choice of darker tones. Red would have been rendered very dark at that date, as truly panchromatic monochrome photographic emulsions had yet to be developed. Consulting the GNR Society might be the next step.

Thank you Mick and Hatfield Shed.
Yes the Slaters ex NER looks good.
I too have one of those Slaters kits to build (for pre 1920), so the GN hand-rails will be a good practice.

Kimball

Having checked my files and confirmed with a couple of other people
I am certain that the GNR goods brakes had different coloured lamp bodies and lenses
The left had one was white, when looking from the rear, and the right hand body was red.
The rear facing lenses were both red, and the forward facing ones white.

Obviously when the goods brake went back, the lamps were changed from side to side.

HTH

Paul

Thank you Paul.
That is a really interesting result on the lamps research - thank you.
Of course it raises questions of practicality for changing lamps at 1:76.
However I think it worthy to have one red and one white.
If the vehicle gets to run on a layout in public, I will be ready with answers to any questions.

Kimball