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questions about some modelling tools and materials

Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:35 pm
by Frazmataz
I have some questions about equipment/materials that I have seen railway modellers use all the time, but have never been able to source. Where can I find:

1. Plastikard. Also, how does the numbering system work to denote thickness/density?

2. Wet/Dry paper. What is this exactly? And how does its system of grades work?

3. Fibreglass pencils. These have always seemed to me to be very handy, especially at exhibitions to keep wheels clean, etc.

Re: questions about some modelling tools and materials

Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 2:00 pm
by Bullhead
Bass wrote:Where can I find Plastikard - also, how does the numbering system work to denote thickness/density?
http://www.slatersplastikard.com/Master ... erials.htm

The larger the number, the thicker the sheet.

Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 2:12 pm
by rob
Hello Bass,some quick thoughts on yous questions:
1Plasticard-as far as I know with Slaters-0110 etc,the 01indicates plain white sheet,the next two digits the thickness in thous.It is the material of the damned for me.I can build plastic kits but raw plasticard terrifys me,I cannot get a straight line and end up with a workbench full of scraps and dust.I am totally intimidated by those who can scratchbuild coaches and buildings!
2Wet and Dry-the higher the grade,ie 1000,the finer the finish.I use 400 for shaping and fettling whitemetal a lot,the higher grades for polishing and cleaning,the lower for scratching and gouging.Can be used dry or wet,even with white spirits as a lubricant.Try gluing it to a lollipop stick or similar as a sanding tool-it has a load of uses.
3Quite handy,but be prepared to spend time searching for the little bits that are stuck in your finger,surprisingly painful.I again use them quite a bit for cleaning metal when building,but would not use them on loco wheels-I think any abrasive cleaner on track and wheels builds up more trouble long term,the minute scratches gather more dirt,and then you don't want any bits of the fibreglass dust in the mech either.Try isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud and take your time with it.
Hope this is some help!

Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 2:27 pm
by Frazmataz
thanks for that, rob :D but what do you mean with the fibreglass pencil? does it actually shard into your fingers? :shock:

and what are 'thous'?

Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:00 pm
by Bullhead
Bass wrote:What are 'thous'?
Thousandths of an inch.

I've always found Plastikard very easy to work with and particularly like using it for buildings. Laminating it to build up really thick sections adds to the "heft", and also protects against warping.

Here's a picture of my unfinished 4mm model of Richmond station, built entirely of plain and embossed plastikard, with Milliput mouldings.

Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 7:47 pm
by Frazmataz
That's a very impressive model, Bullhead! :D

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:52 pm
by rob
Not so much shreds as tiny needle like bits which break off-use it over say a biscuit tin lid and dispose of the "dust" carefully.If it gets on workbench or where ever it will inevitably end up lodged in a finger!That said,it is an essential tool but where possible I will use a polishing mat or fine wet and dry instead.
Wonderful station building Bullhead,incredible in fact-please post some more as you paint it etc.Shows what brillant results can be obtained!

Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:05 pm
by Frazmataz
Thanks for the advice rob :D

Re: questions about some modelling tools and materials

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:26 am
by Stuart
Bass wrote:I have some questions about equipment/materials that I have seen railway modellers use all the time, but have never been able to source. Where can I find:

1. Plastikard. Also, how does the numbering system work to denote thickness/density?
2. Wet/Dry paper. What is this exactly? And how does its system of grades work?
3. Fibreglass pencils. These have always seemed to me to be very handy, especially at exhibitions to keep wheels clean, etc.
HI
>> The plastic sheet come in 5thou, 10, 20 30 40 60 80 100 120thou

>> Wet/dry paper is for sanding, you can put it in water which asks like a lubcant for sanding to get a fine finsh.. The higher the number the fine the grade of paper.

>> A fiberglass pencil is use to clear brass and N/S for soldering. BUT be careful as it will scratch the brass. I use one for building brass locos.

Hope this helps
Stuart in OZ

Re: questions about some modelling tools and materials

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 4:34 pm
by Frazmataz
Stuart wrote:
Bass wrote:I have some questions about equipment/materials that I have seen railway modellers use all the time, but have never been able to source. Where can I find:

1. Plastikard. Also, how does the numbering system work to denote thickness/density?
2. Wet/Dry paper. What is this exactly? And how does its system of grades work?
3. Fibreglass pencils. These have always seemed to me to be very handy, especially at exhibitions to keep wheels clean, etc.
HI
>> The plastic sheet come in 5thou, 10, 20 30 40 60 80 100 120thou

>> Wet/dry paper is for sanding, you can put it in water which asks like a lubcant for sanding to get a fine finsh.. The higher the number the fine the grade of paper.

>> A fiberglass pencil is use to clear brass and N/S for soldering. BUT be careful as it will scratch the brass. I use one for building brass locos.

Hope this helps
Stuart in OZ
it does :D thanks

Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 6:33 pm
by paul2001
One tip for the fibre pencil is give it a soak in pva/water mix (what you would use for Ballasting) this cuts down on the number of bits that come off.

Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 7:13 pm
by Frazmataz
paul2001 wrote:One tip for the fibre pencil is give it a soak in pva/water mix (what you would use for Ballasting) this cuts down on the number of bits that come off.
interesting advice :) is this a permanent solution or something you should do every time you use it?

Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 7:34 pm
by paul2001
Its a permanent solution you take your new refill dip it in the pva mix a couple of time letting it get a good soaking leave to dry for 24/48 hours and away you go. Its a tip i got from a connoisseur kit, and seems to work.

Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 7:44 pm
by Frazmataz
Interesting idea :D thanks for that!