Pete, the problem these days is to be sure that the files have a proper finish on them, they are not the same as they used to be.
For the kind of draw filing you are likely to do, I would prefer 12 inch smooths of various shapes, but each to their own
I think the Swiss still make some decent stuff, but really not sure about some of our old erstwhile makers, how much of the
proper stuff do they now buy from China, and is it worth the money?
At least with cheap diamonds, you know they are not going to be too rough, or you could buy diamond polishing creams.
Three images of the finished inside connecting rod, well I say finished, I could keep filing polishing but you have to call it a day somewhere along the line, only thing left for me to do is fit a sprung lid to the oil cup that I have added to ensure better lubrication on a critical and difficult part to get too, well not too difficult with a small oil can with a very fine nozzle, hopefully....
I have laid the rod on the chassis to give an idea of it's size which IIRC is just over 10" in length...
Atlantic 3279 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2019 8:44 pm
It'll be a shame to hide all those lovely bits under a boiler and running plate....
True, but they all have a job to do and there are many more bits yet to be put between the frames which also will be hard to see. I've barely started...
Dave wrote: ↑Tue Nov 12, 2019 10:19 am
Just amazing work, I can't wait to see the finished loco, do you intend to make any teak carriages to go behind her.
Thanks, Dave, that's the plan sir, assuming I live long enough... In fact I have been looking at CNC routers for cutting the teak panels out and to be able to easily repeat. The plan is to start with a 3rd Brake which is the first in the 'Flying Scotsman' train and also one that's suitable for strengthening to hold the driver without sacrificing any of the detail/accuracies to scale. It will be a few years before I get to this but it's something that I'm seriously looking into and also to produce kit's as there's nothing out there in 'true scale' for Gresley teaks in 5" gauge. Mind you, I need to find works drawings first without having to spend a fortune.
I don't see much need for an apology about the paintwork. Even if there are imperfections that I'm not seeing, I think the rest of the workmanship earns you the right to a certain amount of latitude! How often did real locos have pristine finishes on running boards, even when prepared for exhibitions, and how long would such a finish last?
Most subjects, models and techniques covered in this thread are now listed in various categories on page1
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Thanks, atlantic... it's an eyesore to me... my own fault for trying to get paint on to her before taking her to a memorial that I have been invited to with the model in recent years. It was this summer when it got very hot, I got a good coat of paint on the frames and wheels, but by the time I got to the running boards and smokebox a few days later the temp where I was painting was close to 40c... enamel likes a much cooler climate...
Currently making the sand traps for the steam sandboxes, here are the boxes with the trap parts being made.. a fair bit of profiling left to do to the tab fronts and main body, rears are nearly done and then repeat for the other trap. Then the two parts that make up the sandtrap can be silver soldered together.
Thank's Nigel.... The sandtrap bodies are just about there, perhaps a little more fettling later but I have plenty of other bits to be getting on with for now...on to the shields next...
Your work continues to inspire respect and admiration.
Please may I ask about your operational standing systems:-
Will you need to use specially ground sand, or possibly some other abrasive granular material?
I was wondering about the problems of scale and grain size.
drmditch wrote: ↑Thu Dec 05, 2019 11:36 am
Your work continues to inspire respect and admiration.
Please may I ask about your operational standing systems:-
Will you need to use specially ground sand, or possibly some other abrasive granular material?
I was wondering about the problems of scale and grain size.
Thank you...
I'll be using 'silver sand' (play pit) which works very well, I have just videoed a short test using 1/8 thin-walled copper pipe which is the same as I'll use on the model.
