nzpaul wrote: ↑Thu Jul 07, 2022 11:30 am
...this one (split chassis V2) has a FK130 can motor which I think has a 5 pole armature...
Just retrieved and posted off a copy of one of Iain Rice's 1990's practical 'how to' guides on RTR loco detailing, and on retrieval it obligingly fell open on a page where he states it's a five pole job. He names Graham Hubbard among those he thanks for assistance.
Whatever, it's a good motor, just my 'wannaknow' obsession kicking in. Hope the V2 runs reliably when put to the test.
Hi All
Long overdue for an update but only a couple of models moving forward at the moment. The V4, I'm hoping to have this finished by the end of the year and I'd claim to be on target at this stage. The valve gear is partially assembled but I've stripped the chassis of all waggly bits for painting. The tender is almost done, only a few more parts before priming.
Secondly, I'm attempting to produce a tourist twin set using old Triang Thompsons as donors. The cut and shut is complete and window frames started. They're only roughed out at this stage but promising I think. Inevitably, these will end up something of a compromise but at least they'll be cheap.
More V4:
Cab handrails and lubricators fitted. Motor/Gearbox and driving wheels installed and underside of the boiler trimmed to fit.
Tourist Twin:
Chassis made up using recycled generator and reservoirs from the original, with addition of Graeme King resin battery boxes and Plastruct angle for the stress bar frame. Now need to sort out the articulated bogie and get them leveled out. Doing my best to keep these very budget conscious.
The latest work on the tourist twin has been to remove all of the old detail from the roof and make it look more like it should.
I've use microstrip to add the rain strip and roof board brackets. Roof ventilators are a mix of left over Kirk and MJT parts. The 4 piece toplight frames are incorrect but I've perpetuated the error in the unfitted windows rather than cut all of the frames out and remake them with 3 panes. The frames were cut from Plastruct ladder, just a fluke that the ladder rung spacing matched the old Triang frames.
Quite a while ago I started on a second Raven A2 but the work stalled and it went into the roundtuit box as I wasn't happy with the drive. Returning to the project whilst sorting out something else for the V4, I've bitten the bullet and solved the drive line problem. Originally I'd used silicone sealant to secure the can motor to the chassis. It worked, but over time the silicone shrunk and caused the gear mesh to become tight. To fix it permanently I've made a mounting bracket that replicates the front of a X04 to positively locate the front of the motor. Silicone still secures the rear of the motor but any shrinkage will ease the mesh slightly, now it runs as intended.
Lastly, a couple of video links. First one is the V4 running on the rollers and on my spiral for testing. Mitsumi motor and High Level Road Runner gearbox. Excuse the noise in the video, my spiral works very well as an amplifier, it runs very quietly in person. There is no weight added yet and the loco is very light, pickup is still quite good despite this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nlxw9t80bQ
Second is the Bachmann split frame V2 fitted with Hornby B1 wheels. It's pulling a rather ugly train of old Hornby Pullmans but the 5 coaches are not taxing it too much. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsuFqAljaPA
Paul
Last edited by nzpaul on Thu Oct 13, 2022 10:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
Use of the Plastruct ladder to create the top-lights in the large windows is a handy idea. I wonder if that would work for simulation of GNR style top-lights in the large windows of Margate's old "not quite Gresley" carriages. Far easier than building up from strip, I imagine.
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Atlantic 3279 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 13, 2022 10:02 am
Use of the Plastruct ladder to create the top-lights in the large windows is a handy idea. I wonder if that would work for simulation of GNR style top-lights in the large windows of Margate's old "not quite Gresley" carriages. Far easier than building up from strip, I imagine.
I didn't think about that fully enough Paul. Where present in the large windows, GN top lights tended to be in tow long pieces only, although I suppose the ladders could still be used, with a couple of rungs trimmed off, to just provide the T-pieces necessary. They might be a little more use for anyone adventurous enough to cut Margate coaches into many pieces and rebuild them as LNER opens / end door stock, requiring four-toplights in some of the large windows, although with the Plastruct rungs pitched at 3.2mm (allegedly) they might not divide up the 16mm long Margate window frames evenly...
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HI All
I have been reminded via Skype this morning that I haven't shared any progress on the V4 for a while. It now has a 2-6-2 wheel arrangement and completed valve gear. The Judith Edge design required that the lubricator drive and valve gear reach rod to be mounted permanently to the chassis as opposed to the underside of the running plate where one would normally attach it. It all ends up looking rather lovely even if a little tricky to align and assemble. Also fitted the wash out plugs, as per 3402/61701 with two either side of the firebox cladding band. I've had to come up with a stealth arrangement for the front crank pins as there is very limited clearance to the connecting rods. I've copied the idea from one of my Japanese/Korean brass models and made countersunk head screws that sit almost completely flush with enlarged holes in the coupling rods. I must admit it was a bit heart in mouth as any mistake in the drilling could have cause serious damage to the rods or any other misjudgment could cause poor running, all went well as it turns out with no change in the running at all.
Here's how it looked on Sunday afternoon.
I have yet to try a countersunk crankpin fixing Paul, but I'm pleased to hear that you got a satisfactory result. I've seen examples of hand-made csk fixings in books etc, but it is handy to have confirmation from an independent witness that such things do work out.
One thing that concerns me is that a specified drill size or a mark on a long taper-reamer cannot be used to set the initial or final size of hole and hence the clearance. Did you produce the countersinking a little at a time until the the screw would only just tighten without nipping the rod?
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Atlantic 3279 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 19, 2022 10:57 am
I have yet to try a countersunk crankpin fixing Paul, but I'm pleased to hear that you got a satisfactory result. I've seen examples of hand-made csk fixings in books etc, but it is handy to have confirmation from an independent witness that such things do work out.
One thing that concerns me is that a specified drill size or a mark on a long taper-reamer cannot be used to set the initial or final size of hole and hence the clearance. Did you produce the countersinking a little at a time until the the screw would only just tighten without nipping the rod?
This one was quite a lesson and although successful it relies on thread lock to keep the screw in place. The 10ba screw required drilling the rod to 2mm for clearance, leaving very little metal left for tapering. Next time I have a go, I'll try to make a 10ba/12ba reducer to fit into the wheel then use a 12ba countersunk screw and smaller holes in the rods, I'm sure that proper tightening of the screw against the boss would then be possible. These ones will not come apart again without breaking the screw head, but I doubt it's owner will have a desire to pull it to pieces. Being Markits wheels they can be taken off with the rods left on anyway.
Thanks Dave, I heard a rumour that you might be able to see the V4 in person sometime......can't remember if that means you're coming over to visit Mike, or Mike's coming to visit you....either way, I hope you like it. Remember it's going to be black, so not as pretty as it could be perhaps. A green one would look out of place on Mike's layout I guess.
At present my life is rather in a state of flux, so I'm not in a position to comment from a practical experience. However, it may be possible to use a Gibson type crankpin in reverse to secure the coupling rod on the leading crank pin. This would of course require the hole in the coupling rod to be enlarged by about 0.5mm.
Tony Gee has recently mentioned the use of Gibson top-hat type crankpin bushes, inside-out, to secure rods on Romford pins, with the external projection after trimming being only a neat, small, shallow disc - less still I presume if one slightly countersinks or counterbores the rod first.
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The use of Gibson crank pins back to front might be worth further investigation. The only tricky part I can think of would be securing the 1mm nut to the back face of the wheel boss and ensure it stays put when the screw is removed. The bush could be trimmed to just clear the rod and the countersunk screw made to sit flush in the bush. Done properly that could be a very tidy way of doing things. I have the B3 to start on next year which will have Scalelink wheels so I might give that a go.
Just before I get stared on preparations for Christmas over eating, something deadly serious cropped up.
I had to do some repair work on Woolwinder. Admittedly not the best model of an A1 I've come across, but after a good clean and oil round, it's back to tip top operational condition. Not sure about the colour scheme either but it's not mine so as long as it goes...
