Thanks to you both for moral support!
While the production of moulds for the tender tank/bunker, the tender soleplate, and the loco boiler simply invloved careful repetition of methods that I've used (and shown on here) previously (see the way I produced the boilers for the B3 for instance) the matter of the combined loco running plate, splashers and cab sides required some thought. I had considered most of it at a much earlier stage, and then gradually forgotten what I'd decided in the long interval between completion of the master model and the start of mould production! Anyway, I did remember that I had realised that the mould would require two separate core pieces, one to form the underside of the running plate and the spaces under the splashers, the other one to form the space inside the cab. This was because I had quite deliberately made the cab sides and splashers integral with running plate, eliminating the challenge of lining them up and bonding them on each future model, at the same time giving strength and stiffness to the whole structure of the rear of the loco body. The cab core piece needed to extend above the tops of the cab sides and to the rear of those, so that flat "waste" areas of the core piece would be in tight contact with the outer mould during the casting process, trapping the cab core piece in the correct position to produce cab sides, front and floor of correct thicknesses. The first requirement was some suitable shuttering added to the cab of the master model to create a suitable box into which the mould rubber could be poured. In order to ultimately get minimal thickness of resin flash around the cab edges, and to avoid unwanted thickening or damaging to the cab sides, I used only a layer of sellotape to bridge (internally) the cut-outs in the cab sides and to project beyond the cab edges. To those projections I stuck some thin plasticard, save for the piece closing off the rear of the box which was thicker material allowing me to create a strong joint with solvent where it met the sides of the shuttering.
I sealed the other joints as much as I could with plastic solvent and then with additional sellotape in some areas. Where I could see, or where I suspected awkward little gaps I used a little PVA glue to bridge and plug.
The silicone rubber pour went quite well, with minimal leakage in areas where it was easy to peel off once cured.
On removal off the plastic shuttering and careful trimming away of projecting remnants of sellotape with a really sharp blade (without disturbing the rubber core piece from its position), then trimming the edges of the rubber to get a bevel rather than the raised edge of the meniscus from the original liquid state, I had a good result and could move on to other parts of the job.