3D printed Y7
Moderators: 52D, Tom F, Rlangham, Atlantic 3279, Blink Bonny, Saint Johnstoun, richard
Re: 3D printed Y7
instructions: http://brackmodels.weebly.com/lner-y7-in-4mm-scale.html (most of it has been documented on here, but the cab handrail dodge hasn't been mentioned yet)
Re: 3D printed Y7
Well done .
A couple of minor points re instructions .
Handrail wire should be 0.45mm not 0.5mm as this will not fit the handrail knobs without drilling the holes out.
I would use thin Brass strip for the cab surround. Paper has zero stength overtime with use it will fail.
A couple of minor points re instructions .
Handrail wire should be 0.45mm not 0.5mm as this will not fit the handrail knobs without drilling the holes out.
I would use thin Brass strip for the cab surround. Paper has zero stength overtime with use it will fail.
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Atlantic 3279
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
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Re: 3D printed Y7
This looks altogether excellent so far. It will be interesting to see whether any of the layering of the body structure re-appears in a couple of months as the paint coats sink.
That motor/gear combination could be very handy. I know somebody who goes to some cost and trouble to build ultra-low ratio drive systems for shunters. Maybe he could save himself some time and money now.
That motor/gear combination could be very handy. I know somebody who goes to some cost and trouble to build ultra-low ratio drive systems for shunters. Maybe he could save himself some time and money now.
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Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Re: 3D printed Y7
Thanks for all the kind words
the instructions are only what I used (hence I won't put something on sale without having made one first) - my handrails are 0.5mm, and fitted the knobs fine without drilling out. Finer wire would look better, but I didn't have any (not straight stuff at least). I'll change the recommendation to 0.45mm though.
For the cab surround, annealed brass strip would certainly work, but paper impregnated with superglue is very strong (I've seen G scale rolling stock built from it - surprised me!) they're rock solid (I did some vigourous finger poking to test!).
I'll certainly add those as options to the instructions though, so thanks for the suggestions (please don't think I'm just ignoring them/contradicting you - all feedback/comments are helpful)
As regards the layering becoming more visible over time, I only taught myself CAD last easter, so my oldest models are over a year old and do not show any sign of the layering effect - since most of it is removed by sanding, rather than just filling, I'm not too worried. Should any layering become visible I'll just fill and repaint.
The motor/gearbox is a little noisy, but very slow! (having seen the real Y7s shunting somewhat speedily last year, I can testify that my model isn't capable of reaching the prototype speeds. kind of the reverse of the usual scale speed issues) at £6 for two of them, and £2.20 a pair of bevel gears, its certainly worth an experiment, and they offer several different ratios but all within the same overall dimensions. The motionco website has the information on the axle centre distances etc. for the bevel gears.
In fairness my initial worries about the noise was after a test run (piece of track on keyboard shelf or balanced on a box file) and without weight. Once weighted things improved, and on a ballasted layout with foam underlay it was better again, still a little loud, but not terrible. Everyone has their own opinion on what is an acceptable level of noise, so thats up to them. It's quieter than a built to order 9mm gauge chassis I had (I sold that as it was much too noisy. ran beautifully, but very loud) certainly the noise level doesn't make me want to sell it!
Anyway, back to some narrow gauge for now, I have a pair of 3D printed tortoises to finish painting (7mm scale) and an 18" gauge version of the Groudle Glen Railway's Annie (Bagnall 042T).
I hope that perhaps I've shown that 3D printing has a place/use for modelling, certainly the loco opened a few people's eyes yesterday who'd previously only seen poorly finished examples.
The big question - Whereabouts can I find J79 drawings?
the instructions are only what I used (hence I won't put something on sale without having made one first) - my handrails are 0.5mm, and fitted the knobs fine without drilling out. Finer wire would look better, but I didn't have any (not straight stuff at least). I'll change the recommendation to 0.45mm though.
For the cab surround, annealed brass strip would certainly work, but paper impregnated with superglue is very strong (I've seen G scale rolling stock built from it - surprised me!) they're rock solid (I did some vigourous finger poking to test!).
I'll certainly add those as options to the instructions though, so thanks for the suggestions (please don't think I'm just ignoring them/contradicting you - all feedback/comments are helpful)
As regards the layering becoming more visible over time, I only taught myself CAD last easter, so my oldest models are over a year old and do not show any sign of the layering effect - since most of it is removed by sanding, rather than just filling, I'm not too worried. Should any layering become visible I'll just fill and repaint.
The motor/gearbox is a little noisy, but very slow! (having seen the real Y7s shunting somewhat speedily last year, I can testify that my model isn't capable of reaching the prototype speeds. kind of the reverse of the usual scale speed issues) at £6 for two of them, and £2.20 a pair of bevel gears, its certainly worth an experiment, and they offer several different ratios but all within the same overall dimensions. The motionco website has the information on the axle centre distances etc. for the bevel gears.
In fairness my initial worries about the noise was after a test run (piece of track on keyboard shelf or balanced on a box file) and without weight. Once weighted things improved, and on a ballasted layout with foam underlay it was better again, still a little loud, but not terrible. Everyone has their own opinion on what is an acceptable level of noise, so thats up to them. It's quieter than a built to order 9mm gauge chassis I had (I sold that as it was much too noisy. ran beautifully, but very loud) certainly the noise level doesn't make me want to sell it!
Anyway, back to some narrow gauge for now, I have a pair of 3D printed tortoises to finish painting (7mm scale) and an 18" gauge version of the Groudle Glen Railway's Annie (Bagnall 042T).
I hope that perhaps I've shown that 3D printing has a place/use for modelling, certainly the loco opened a few people's eyes yesterday who'd previously only seen poorly finished examples.
The big question - Whereabouts can I find J79 drawings?
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auldreekie
- GER D14 4-4-0 'Claud Hamilton'
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- Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2012 1:42 pm
Re: 3D printed Y7
I REALLY like this, not least for your positive conclusion. The moral, as with all flash new techniques, appears to be that familiarisation is necessary, learn the limitations, and practice can make perfect....
I could even be tempted to try my hand. But not yet, Oh Lord...
auldreekie
I could even be tempted to try my hand. But not yet, Oh Lord...
auldreekie
Re: 3D printed Y7
finally someone bought one of these today! by all means keep us updated if its someone on here. I'm afraid I've been busy(ish) with my 18" gauge 7mm/ft stuff and some Irish outline things in 4mm/ft. If anyone wants an EM version (and actually intends to buy one), please let me know and I'll do one, I'd just need to know the width across the frames of an EM chassis, then it'd take 10 minutes to change and upload it to shapeways (give or take 30 mins running checks etc with a couple fo programs first to avoid rejections).