Atlantic's works: Portable layout - Scenic details next

[Atlantic 3279]

It's an interesting point about the thickness of the lower edges of the sides, one that I've been having second thoughts about too. I was trying to get a move on with this project when I thickened the sides last night. I was also trying to cater for fitting the body to a Bachmann underframe if desired, but in trying to think about good provision for that, in a hurry, I suspect I've shot myself in both feet, as I've got things wrong for both kinds of underframe. That thick lower edge to the sides seemed like a good idea to facilitate the sticking on of strips to represent the edges of the soleplate to suit a Bachmann frame. BUT, I've subsequently realised that I'm going to have to at least put a rebate on the inboard edge to accommodate even the Bachmann frame! That rebate may as well threfore be great enough to go on the Hornby frame too.

[mick b]

It is actually the ballast weight that is a close (not tight) fit on the inside faces of the tender side. Clearance at the back edge is fine.

The weight can be removed by undoing 2 screws and either modifying the width of the weight or making something new like a plasticard tray with lead sheet glued on top.

Not on any of mine, the Tender sides clip over raised "steps" on the chassis frame on the sides and front and rear corners. The Tender body is very tight in the coal space area at the front hence the cut out in the tender weight.

[davidwest]

I thought that Wolf of Badenock has a streamlined A4 tender? A new tender top of any description may be useful.

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all
Wolf of Badenoch certainly had a streamlined tender as did 503-5, but it was mentioned earlier in the thread that the tender would be suitable for the first two which had high-sided non-streamlined tenders.
Perhaps Atlantic is going to produce add-ons to convert the tender into the streamlined variant.
Earlswood nob

[Atlantic 3279]

Although I alluded in the previous posts to the fact that I planned to modify the resin casting when ready to suit Wolf, I'll just repeat / clarify the plan here: I'll straighten the leading edges of the sidesheets, add the partial fairing over the front corners of the bunker (raising the front plate a little if appropraite at the same time) and clean off the beadings. As far as I can see at present that should do the job for the period I'll be modelling. Fuller fairings can be added from plastikard cut to shape if required, it's not a difficult operation.

I thought it most sensible at this stage to mould the body with the beading on, the side-sheets turned-in at the front, and the fairings off, as it seemed easier to adapt the resultant product TO the streamlined version than it would be to take a streamlined version and backdate it to 1928 style. Owing to the cost of the moulding rubber, and the time taken to prepare things, I don't want to make separate moulds for both versions unless there's a clear need to do that.

[will5210]

I'm very interested to see how the tender turns out, as I need a few 3500 gallon tenders so resin casting could be a real time saver.

cheers

Will

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all
Both South Eastern Finecast and Dave Alexander do white metal 3500 tenders. AFAIK they are both the slab sided version. There were 3500g tenders with stepped out coping fitted to the early J39/1's, but J38's and others had the slab sided version.
Earlswood nob

[Atlantic 3279]

Another point I forgot to emphasize regarding the decision to mould the 1928 version of the tender concerns the viability of single-piece moulding. Unless moulded as a "brim-full bunker only" style the fairings over the front corners of the bunker on a streamlined tender will create some very deep undercuts in a mould. Ensuring that these fill with resin, and then part from the mould without damage to either the casting or the mould, on a repeated basis, is not necessarily a task that I would relish!

[davidwest]

Although I alluded in the previous posts to the fact that I planned to modify the resin casting when ready to suit Wolf, I'll just repeat / clarify the plan here: I'll straighten the leading edges of the sidesheets, add the partial fairing over the front corners of the bunker (raising the front plate a little if appropraite at the same time) and clean off the beadings. As far as I can see at present that should do the job for the period I'll be modelling. Fuller fairings can be added from plastikard cut to shape if required, it's not a difficult operation.

I though it most sensible at this stage to mould the body with the beading on, the side-sheets turned-in at the front, and the fairings off, as it seemed easier to adapt the resultant product TO the streamlined version than it would be to take a streamlined version and backdate it to 1928 style. Owing to the cost of the moulding rubber, and the time taken to prepare things, I don't want to make separate moulds for both versions unless there's a clear need to do that.

Apologies - I'd not fully read the preceeding posts.

[Atlantic 3279]

In view of the doubts revealed by previous comments and questions, I though I'd better double check on the ways that Hornby and Bachmann versions of the 8 wheel tender go together:

Although that lip on the top edge of the side frames doesn't form the soleplate on the Bachmann version, it does protrude up inside the body.

[Atlantic 3279]

Here's the ex-factory Hornby arrangement, part of a tender in a proper livery

And here's a butchered one, with substitute lead-shot ballast inside the body. I seem to recall that if you want to build a tender from bits you can't buy the original Hornby weight anyway.

[Atlantic 3279]

Now some updates on the current mould preparation.

Here's the moulding box with tender body stuck to its base and totally covered by the first pour of rubber.

With the rubber set, here's the box inverted showing the flat plastikard base taped on.

[Atlantic 3279]

After removing the base with care so as to ensure that it unglued itself from the lower edges of the tender body rather than dragging that out of the rubber, I found it quite easy with the tender sides well supported by the firm rubber to run a knife several times along a line just over 1mm above the lower edge of the reinforcing layers of plastic, allowing me to then split a strip way from the true tender side. You can see the detached strips and the base of the box in the background in the picture below. This opened up the width within the critical lowest part of the body to just over 30mm, yet left enough material in the sides to help to provide strength and stability in a future resin casting. I daren't take out any more material, so although the body will now fit over either a Hornby or Bachmann underfame, whilst the Bachmann weights will fit a Hornby weight won't unless it is slimmed down.

With the necessary rebates formed I then peeled away any stray rubber that had crept onto the lower faces of the bricks forming the box, added another layer of bricks ready for the next pour of rubber, and applied vaseline to the exposed parts of the first pour of rubber to ensure separation of the two mould parts once the second pour has set. Now I can only twiddle my thumbs while I wait for a delivery of moulding rubber.

[Atlantic 3279]

Here's something entirely different that I was trying to describe to one or two forum users a few days ago....

I've seen simple wire couplings between vehicles to permit easy setting up of stock on layouts at shows, and equally easy eventual removal for packing away. The types I've seen have either been of the single-ended "hook on one vehicle, loop or bar on the next" type, which are no good if you want to turn stock around (and which mean that the vehicle with the hook has to go onto the track after the one with the bar, and then come off before the other vehicle when packing up), or hooks on both vehicles with ends turned downwards but "sloping across the end of the wagon" so that hooks on facing wagons always engage. Neither type of simple wire hook coupling provides any assistance with the avoidance of buffer lock when vehicles are propelled. Somebody suggested to me the in the single-ended design, the hook could have a double-bend in it so that it could both pull and PUSH against the next vehicle, to avoid buffer lock. I've decided to try combining his suggestion with the double-ended hook:

This allows for vehicles to rise or fall somewhat on uneven track, or for opposite overthrows of their ends on reverse curves, without restricting the free movements of the vehicles, whilst remaining coupled, is able to pull OR push, and allows either vehicle to be first onto, or first off the layout, either way round. I'll try this pair of brakevans out under heavy load at the front of long train in due course and check that my claims regarding the workings of these couplings are correct. There's also an element of springing to the coupling, which I've formed from piano wire.

[Atlantic 3279]

More mould prep. Bosses added to master to suit Bachmann U/F - cut 'em off for the Hornby one. Registration slots cut in mating face of first pour of mould rubber - these also help the core/lid of the mould to prevent splaying of the outer mould when it is full of resin.