Daves C & W Works

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

Dave, the people will have to move to do this justice.

Wonderful work and an inspiration to us all. I'm going to have to pull my socks up re coaches!

[2002EarlMarischal]

The quality and detail just continues to impress and raise a smile Dave. Very well done.

Now, how many coaches do you need to complete to make up the sets you need? Between you and Graeme with his monster wagons, I hate to think how many "man years" of work are ahead for you both!

[Dave]

Thank you BB and EarlMarischal.
I have another to build after these 3...but I have no where to run them, so I can have as many or as few as I want. I daren't add up the hours.

On Friday I was bored at lunch time so I thought antimacassar or not to antimacassar.....here is the result. In the photo I found they were very prominent.
Thin paper again cut into 5 x 8 oblongs painted with Vallejo White Grey...as we all know white used on models is too bright, then lettered with a 0.3 HB pencil LN&E......I need to get a life.

[Atso]

Wow those are incredible! But... shouldn't you have painted the underneath of the chairs???

...I'll get my coat!

[MikeTrice]

I need to get a life.

Beats spending all day on the internet looking to see if someone has updated one of my favourite threads!

[Dave]

Atso - Due to the current economic climate I've had to sack some of the paint imps, so we're a bit short staffed. I've had a word with the late quality controller and had him shot. I can thoroughly recomend the management book "How to manage a company African Dictator style".
Mike - Sorry you had a wasted day yesterday I was busy modelling, mowing the lawn and next doors dog, oh and cooking, to post.

Well I'm bored with seats and tables as I'm sure you are, so a bit of a change.
D113 - I've put the vac pipe connection on the other D113, this has the straight pipe and not the kinked version like the other one which I don't think it should have. Whilst I was looking at it I saw I had not fitted the turnbuckle bolt plate.......where were they??, mad search and I found the fret in the scrap box.

[Dave]

I've neglected this D113 for some time, I put the panels on in a rush, so I've spent some considerable time over the weekend cleaning off excess solder, this is where the micro chisel and 1mm blade comes into it's own. I must be take more care.

[2002EarlMarischal]

...I was busy modelling, mowing the lawn and next doors dog, oh and cooking, to post....

Why were you "mowing next doors dog"? I am very fond of our Jack's long coat, and would be exceedingly concerned if my neighbour decided to copy your actions.

Please focus on your marvellous modelling and leave the "dogicure" to the local poodle parlour!

[Dave]

To teak or not to teak that is the question.

Up to now I have always painted my teak following Mike Trice's article - A question of teak pts 1 & 2 in the 1981 MRC mag. I know he has revised this to deal with too much yellow in certain lights, but so far I have not had this problem.

Sometime ago after I had primed the D113 in a red primer base coat I started to apply an experimental teak finish using acrylic paint, as I had always used Humbrol before.
I used Vellejo Bright Orange, Ochre Brown and Orange Brown, painting each panel individually in one of the colours which I thinned as I felt fit (with water, I have since got some Vallejo thinners and that's a lot better). Some of the panels are only partly painted with the full red base left to show through. I did not get very far as you can see and had a gut feeling that the red base might have been a mistake, I got on with other more important things. Then I went to the LNERCA AGM and got a pic of their base coat which is a deep cream...should I rethink, anyway I have done some more work since these pics were taken and I think for an aged teak look the red might be ok. I'm only working on one side at the moment. The colours in these pics are a lot redder than in reality you have to remember the base is Halfords red primer and not pillerbox red.

[mick b]

Maybe the pictures, looks far to red/orange for my tastes

[Dave]

I agree Mick.

But these pics are upto date with further combinations of colour base, as yet there is no top coat colour.
Plus I've started to spray the underframe.

[2512silverfox]

There are so many ways of doing this. My own undercoat tends to be slightly lighter and nearer to the prototype scumble undercoat, but like you I vary the individual panel colours so that the finished job looks more like a 'random' teak effect. The older the vehicle the more you can vary the individual panels, adn the darker you can make them. In the illustrated case the basic colours are what used to be Humbrol Africa Corps Desert Yellow and 8th Army Desert Yellow. The later is better for newer vehicles but mix and match with some panels an even darker or lighter hue.

The first picture is a Kirk Barke Third and the second a part of a scratchbuilt vehilce as finished.

[Dave]

Thank you Silverfox, the model and finish are exellent, for a newish look teak finish I do a base very much like yours. I'm trying to get a weather worn darkened grubby effect like the NRM pic Don 39-117 which some of you will know.

I was out last night and on site this morning so nothing to post on the model front.

[MikeTrice]

I'm trying to get a weather worn darkened grubby effect like the NRM pic Don 39-117 which some of you will know.

Do you mean like this?

[Phil Brighton]

I am messing around with teak at the moment trying to get that sort of weathered look.
I am pleased with the 'new teak' look I can get (sprayed mix of red oxide and railmatch teak, then brushed cream, teak and red oxide again but more teak this time, then ronseal teak stain) and am trying weathering powder on top of that to get the darker grubby look. Seems to be working so far but its early days.