Rustys workbench - builds and paints

[Rustynuts]

These are Markits latest crank pins and Eastern Region return cranks, they look fab but are just a bit too big:

[nzpaul]

Aha....dirty old solder, of course. I bought a pair of the original Markits cranks a while ago and used them on a re wheeled Hornby chassis, worked ok with the Hornby rods but I agree that they are very chunky.

Cheers
Paul

[Rustynuts]

Added the dome and axle boxes and it's now starting to look the part:

[Rustynuts]

Bit more work done, handrails, steam pipes etc now fitted as well as the smoke box door:



And a different angle:



Starting to look quite good, nice buffers from Kean Maygib.

[Rustynuts]

Swapped out the Chimney and the snifter for Brass versions looking a lot better:

[Woodcock29]

Hi

The A1 is looking good - but I have a query I was wondering why you have fitted the vacuum ejector pipe to the left hand side - surely all A1s were right hand drive and left hand drive was only introduced with new build A3s? A1s only getting left hand drive when converted to A3s and even then many remained right hand drive until sometime later. Knight of the Thistle being converted to A3 in 3/47 but not left hand drive until 12/52 according to RCTS.

Andrew Emmett

[JASd17]

Andrew is spot on.

If it is a right-hand drive A1 one must also think about when long-travel valves were fitted too?

John

[Rustynuts]

Simple answer is because this model is an early A3 "Felstead" (I sold the model on Page 1 so replacing it) in 4mm, the tender is for my 7mm model of "Knight of the Thistle.

Does that help, always willing to learn new things so thanks for the feedback.

Paul

[JASd17]

Therefore the superheater covers on the smokebox are yet to be fitted, which caused the confusion.

2743 did have a corridor tender but only until early 1929.

John

[Rustynuts]

Yep, ongoing work, rebuilding a craftsman C12 and finishing a build from a test etch my dad started 20+ years ago (LNWR Radial Tank).

Felstead will be as early as possible with the Corridor tender .

Thanks for the comments, keep them coming.

Paul

[Woodcock29]

Ah, yes that explains it - still to fit the A3 superheater header covers.

Interestingly I'm in the process of rebuilding a Craftsman A5 I got for a song from a deceased estate - not the easiest reworking these brass kits when they've been soldered with high melting point solder. I also have a Craftsman C12 to rebuild but that one is glued together so should be straightforward plus a part built one to finish - I need them for a layout based on Spilsby that a friend is going to build for which I'll be providing the stock. Those two will join my original Craftsman C12 built around 1980 - which was my first brass kit.

Andrew

[Rustynuts]

Yes the C12 I have was glued as well, epoxy, filler and superglue.

Broken it all down and have started to at least get back to the part finished state it was in will post some pics shortly.

[Rustynuts]

Here are some of the C12 before it got a good soak in cellulose thinners to soften the Glues and filler:

Back:


Side on:


Front:


3/4 view:

[Rustynuts]

And a couple after the start of the rebuild, the body has now been soldered and the chassis de-glued and rebuilt using solder, the wheels will be replaced with the latest Markits versions as soon as I can and I will replace the leading and trailing wheels with Gibson ones:

[Woodcock29]

From the photos its looks like it was never painted so that makes pulling it apart a bit easier as I've found there always seems to be a bit of paint that doesn't want to come off - certainly the case with the A5 I'm rebuilding - which has taken a back seat for the moment due to other projects.

I note you haven't fitted the beading at this stage - I've always found it easier to fit to the component parts before building the body.

Andrew