Really nice work, Morgan. I'm getting the itch to start mine, though I expect I can resist for a short time at least.
One thing (and this is for you too, Rob) - isn't the kit only supposed to cover 2400 and 2401, the ones with the inside bearings on the pony truck? I fancied 'City of York' for mine but I'd have to alter it to outside bearings.
One other thing - is that a hole just at the bottom of the junction of firebox and boiler? I've downloaded and blown up your photo and that's the only conclusion I can reach. I assume, Morgan, that there's something which is supposed to fill that in the kit?
On my workbench - Raven A2 Pacific
Moderators: 52D, Tom F, Rlangham, Atlantic 3279, Blink Bonny, Saint Johnstoun, richard
Hi JW,
You're right the kit as supplied will only make 2400 or 2401. I'm sure someone told me that once upon a time DJH also did a kit for the locos with Cartazzi pony truck but maybe my recollection is incorrect. However making the outside frame version could be done. I thought about this before it was decided to build 2400. You would have to make a couple of frame extensions from brass but the cast axle boxes are available from Comet and the rear footstep treads could be used from the existing kit etch. I have a copy of the Issinglass drawing and it shows all the info for both versions.
There should be a whitemetal insert to fill the hole that you noticed on Rob's loco.
Cheers....Morgan
You're right the kit as supplied will only make 2400 or 2401. I'm sure someone told me that once upon a time DJH also did a kit for the locos with Cartazzi pony truck but maybe my recollection is incorrect. However making the outside frame version could be done. I thought about this before it was decided to build 2400. You would have to make a couple of frame extensions from brass but the cast axle boxes are available from Comet and the rear footstep treads could be used from the existing kit etch. I have a copy of the Issinglass drawing and it shows all the info for both versions.
There should be a whitemetal insert to fill the hole that you noticed on Rob's loco.
Cheers....Morgan
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rob
- GCR D11 4-4-0 'Improved Director'
- Posts: 435
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:19 pm
- Location: Cork Ireland
Sorry,we must have crossed!Quite correct on the limited choice Jonathan,I got the plates for "City of Kingston on Hull"a while back-I consider myself very luck that this was the kit that turned up,its the-I also think they did two other variants,almost certainly one with Gresley boiler.
The gap in the boiler/firebox area will have to be filled for sure!Incidentally I had contacted DJH before Mogan generously sent me a copy of his instructions and they confidently assured me it was an all-etched kit-they are clearly long-forgotten there!
I don't know if any of you get Vintage LNER magazine,they had some excellent stuff revaluating these locos a few issues ago,certainly changed my view of the prototypes.
The gap in the boiler/firebox area will have to be filled for sure!Incidentally I had contacted DJH before Mogan generously sent me a copy of his instructions and they confidently assured me it was an all-etched kit-they are clearly long-forgotten there!
I don't know if any of you get Vintage LNER magazine,they had some excellent stuff revaluating these locos a few issues ago,certainly changed my view of the prototypes.
It's been a couple of weeks since I last posted some photos so here are a few more.
The loco chassis is complete apart for the rods. These will go on after the chassis and wheels have been diamantled and painted. Before any painting is done more detail has to be added to the loco body although one or two items will be left off because they will get in the way when I come to do the lining out.
cheers....Morgan
The loco chassis is complete apart for the rods. These will go on after the chassis and wheels have been diamantled and painted. Before any painting is done more detail has to be added to the loco body although one or two items will be left off because they will get in the way when I come to do the lining out.
cheers....Morgan
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jwealleans
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 4302
- Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:46 am
Hi Jonathan,
The drivetrain is similar to one of the DJH suggestions.
The instructions make 2 recommendations for the motor and gearbox combination. Both of them driving the rear axle. One is for a Portescap RG4. The other is a seperate 2 stage gearbox with what, from the illustration, looks like an 18mm can motor in the firebox. The problem with the latter arrangement is that by driving the rear axle the motor would have stuck out into the cab.
To drive off the middle axle I modified the etched motor bracket that was supplied with the kit by trimming the sides of the vertical mounting plate and drilling two new holes at 10mm pitch to suit a Mashima 1426. The flywheel was homemade on the lathe and the gearbox is a Northyard 2 stage 36:1 unit bought from Branchlines (see the picture). The connection between motor and gearbox is a piece of rubber tube. The drivetrain achieves one of the key aims with all the locos I build. Everything should come apart easily for painting and future maintenance/replacement.
Cheers....Morgan
The drivetrain is similar to one of the DJH suggestions.
The instructions make 2 recommendations for the motor and gearbox combination. Both of them driving the rear axle. One is for a Portescap RG4. The other is a seperate 2 stage gearbox with what, from the illustration, looks like an 18mm can motor in the firebox. The problem with the latter arrangement is that by driving the rear axle the motor would have stuck out into the cab.
To drive off the middle axle I modified the etched motor bracket that was supplied with the kit by trimming the sides of the vertical mounting plate and drilling two new holes at 10mm pitch to suit a Mashima 1426. The flywheel was homemade on the lathe and the gearbox is a Northyard 2 stage 36:1 unit bought from Branchlines (see the picture). The connection between motor and gearbox is a piece of rubber tube. The drivetrain achieves one of the key aims with all the locos I build. Everything should come apart easily for painting and future maintenance/replacement.
Cheers....Morgan
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jwealleans
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 4302
- Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:46 am
It's a very neat looking arrangement... is there something in the boiler/firebox which prevents you having the motor attached directly to the gearbox? I'm certainly with you on driving the centre axle, but (up to now) have always just used a motor mount and then stuck a piece of foam/blutack in the top of the boiler the keep the motor relatively still.
Not particularly but I have had to leave room for a DCC decoder to go into the front section of the boiler. By separating the motor and gearbox I achieve a couple of things. Firstly I have managed to get a bigger flywheel (21mm diameter) by putting the motor into the firebox. Secondly I hope to get a degree of sound insulation by having the rubber drive coupling between motor and gearbox. On the sound insulation front I also intend to support the underside of the motor with some foam or silicone sealant when the final assembly is done. I find sound insulation tends to be more of an issue with rigid chassis locos.
Last edited by 45609 on Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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rob
- GCR D11 4-4-0 'Improved Director'
- Posts: 435
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:19 pm
- Location: Cork Ireland
Absolutely wonderful Morgan,a beautiful piece of work and I think the drivetrain is simply ingenious!The impression of overall neatness and total accuracy in construction is most impressive,and the photos capture that air of archaic grandeur and power which was such a feature of these locos-this is just great,keep it coming!
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Colombo
- LNER Thompson B1 4-6-0 'Antelope'
- Posts: 657
- Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2005 4:44 pm
- Location: Derbyshire
- Contact:
With that great long boiler and the three safety valves, it is easy to see why one of the knicknames applied to these locos was "skittle alleys".
I agree that the drive train arrangement is very interesting. The rubber tube will perhaps twist very slightly in tortion, giving the motor an opportunity to turn a fraction before meeting the friction on the worm. This should make for more reliable and smoother starting.
Perhaps I shall try that sometime. I have already used the two stage gearbox arrangement for my D49 and for a WD. It is much better than the old direct drive onto the worm wheel fixed on the axle.
Colombo
I agree that the drive train arrangement is very interesting. The rubber tube will perhaps twist very slightly in tortion, giving the motor an opportunity to turn a fraction before meeting the friction on the worm. This should make for more reliable and smoother starting.
Perhaps I shall try that sometime. I have already used the two stage gearbox arrangement for my D49 and for a WD. It is much better than the old direct drive onto the worm wheel fixed on the axle.
Colombo
Hi all,
More progress pictures of the A2 are posted below. This week I've finished all the pre painting detail work on the loco body. As expected the whitmetal cab roof was dumped in the spares box and a new one was made out of brass. This was a very satisfying exercise and gave me the chance to use my GW models riveting tool for the first time. I bought it on a whim at Scalefourum last year so it's only been sat in a cupboard for nearly a year before I found a use for it!
This afternoon has been spent dismantling, cleaning and masking various parts ready for the painting process. I'm very particular about getting the models clean so I thought I'd share my technique with you.
After each building session I always give the model a good scrub with warm water and Cif to get off the gunge but before painting I also go through the following steps.
1. Warm water and Cif then rinse at least three times. I use various scrubbing implements (old toothbrushes and paint brushes) to get into all the nooks and crannies.
2. Degrease using Cillit Bang Universal Degreaser (green top), scrub and rinse in warm water.
3. Final clean with Cillit Bang Power Clean Grime and Lime (orange top), scrub and rinse in warm water.
The final cleaning agent is a mild acid therefore removes oxides and slightly etches the surface of the metal. It acts a bit like Carr's Metal Surface Conditioner but is a lot cheaper. Everything is then left in warm room to air dry before masking up a few parts. From this point onwards any handling of the model is done whilst wearing rubber gloves until the final coat of varnish goes on.
That's it for now....Morgan
More progress pictures of the A2 are posted below. This week I've finished all the pre painting detail work on the loco body. As expected the whitmetal cab roof was dumped in the spares box and a new one was made out of brass. This was a very satisfying exercise and gave me the chance to use my GW models riveting tool for the first time. I bought it on a whim at Scalefourum last year so it's only been sat in a cupboard for nearly a year before I found a use for it!
This afternoon has been spent dismantling, cleaning and masking various parts ready for the painting process. I'm very particular about getting the models clean so I thought I'd share my technique with you.
After each building session I always give the model a good scrub with warm water and Cif to get off the gunge but before painting I also go through the following steps.
1. Warm water and Cif then rinse at least three times. I use various scrubbing implements (old toothbrushes and paint brushes) to get into all the nooks and crannies.
2. Degrease using Cillit Bang Universal Degreaser (green top), scrub and rinse in warm water.
3. Final clean with Cillit Bang Power Clean Grime and Lime (orange top), scrub and rinse in warm water.
The final cleaning agent is a mild acid therefore removes oxides and slightly etches the surface of the metal. It acts a bit like Carr's Metal Surface Conditioner but is a lot cheaper. Everything is then left in warm room to air dry before masking up a few parts. From this point onwards any handling of the model is done whilst wearing rubber gloves until the final coat of varnish goes on.
That's it for now....Morgan
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- Loco&Tender.jpg
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Hi all,
Been busy over the last week painting/lining and I'm now not far from completing the paint job.
The loco needs the splashers, buffer beam and firebox lining. However I'm not 100% sure about the firebox lining. I don't have a clear enough photo of No. 2400 circa 1934 to tell me whether it should be lined or not. Standard practice would say that lining on the firebox should be there but I have a photo of 2404 in works grey before rebuilding. The firebox is unlined. I seems the A2 livery had some non standard elements. For instance the front frames above the running plate and the cylinders which I assume were Darlingtonisms. Any thoughts or further evidence would be gratefully received?
The tender only needs the main lining panels and lettering. The white marks are for lining up the transfers. I have to say that I have been very pleased by the way the red frame lining has turned out.
Cheers.....Morgan
Been busy over the last week painting/lining and I'm now not far from completing the paint job.
The loco needs the splashers, buffer beam and firebox lining. However I'm not 100% sure about the firebox lining. I don't have a clear enough photo of No. 2400 circa 1934 to tell me whether it should be lined or not. Standard practice would say that lining on the firebox should be there but I have a photo of 2404 in works grey before rebuilding. The firebox is unlined. I seems the A2 livery had some non standard elements. For instance the front frames above the running plate and the cylinders which I assume were Darlingtonisms. Any thoughts or further evidence would be gratefully received?
The tender only needs the main lining panels and lettering. The white marks are for lining up the transfers. I have to say that I have been very pleased by the way the red frame lining has turned out.
Cheers.....Morgan
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