Will's West Highland Workbench - K4s, J39s, D34, K2/2

[2002EarlMarischal]

Not many real buildings are so good close up!

I really like what you have done so far - different subjects and very interesting. Thanks for sharing!

[will5210]

'Loch Long' got its first coat of black last night. Tonight I'll swap the driving wheels & remove the NEM pocket from the pony truck (which makes a big difference to the front end)
This angle shows off the new cab front I put in with windows (spectacles?) that are a little more K4ish.


DSC01778 by will5210, on Flickr

Cheers

[Horsetan]

Of course, all this coincides with Dave Alexander's website disappearing

[jwealleans]

coincides with Dave Alexander's website disappearing

Probably a mercy - it's been out of date (and out of his control, I believe) for a long time.

[will5210]

Of course, all this coincides with Dave Alexander's website disappearing

I think there may be other sources for the parts you need. Graeme King used a Hornby B17 dome on his K4 & can supply a resin smokebox door I think. He may also have a suitable chimney.

Cheers

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all on a sh***y day in Surrey
Alan Gibson's do a brass B1 chimney which is the same as the O2 and K4 (I think, but memory playing tricks at the moment).
A decent upgrade for Dave Alexander's website would be a good move. The website was also behind in listing kits available. He must be losing business.
Earlswood nob

[Horsetan]

I think I can still get a B17 boiler barrel only from somewhere.

The rest should be easy.

Not.

[will5210]

This evenings tinkering:

NEM pocket removed from pony truck, Hornby L1 driving wheels added, buffers & vac pipe added to tender, ride height & cylinder height adjusted with plasticard.

DSC01781 by will5210, on Flickr


DSC01782 by will5210, on Flickr


DSC01792 by will5210, on Flickr

cheers

[will5210]

A small end of weekend update:

K4 steps made from 10thou nickel silver, including a spare rear step I had to make as I'd lost the Bachmann one.

DSC01796 by will5210, on Flickr

K4 boiler & cab glossed for transfers. Handrails added to tender & painted.

DSC01801 by will5210, on Flickr

& I cut my spare (& now rather tired) K3 footplate in half to try & work out how to add the extra 2mm to take it to correct scale length for a K4. No luck as of yet though, as it's mazak which seems to resist any attempt to join itself to anything. Hmmm.

DSC01793 by will5210, on Flickr

Cheers

[manna]

G'Day Gents

I suppose, you could use the two halves on the K3 footplate to make a couple of castings, in resin, at least you can glue them together.................just a thought

manna

[earlswood nob]

Good morning all
C&L Finescale do a Carrs solder and flux for soldering Mazak. I have never used it, but it's on their website.
Earlswood nob

[will5210]

Thanks for looking in chaps!

Manna - I had considered that option as I have an unused resin casting kit waiting for a opportunity to be used. It wouldn't be a straight forward mould for a beginner though. Hmmm, food for thought!

EN - That sounds very useful! I'll look into that at once.

Another option is to scratchbuild a new footplate with brass bar, but I'm not that confident of getting both sides identical. Perhaps I could tack them together before bending?

All options are in play at this stage!

[Horsetan]

Good morning all
C&L Finescale do a Carrs solder and flux for soldering Mazak. ....

You need a pretty strong iron for that - something with a bit more than 25w. 40 or 50w should do it.

C&L don't say anything about the 179 solder's gap-filling properties (which is what Will will need most in his stretched footplate), but they do say you must use Grey Label flux when trying to solder mazak.

I only hope that Will's footplate isn't one of the ones that has been contaminated in the factory - they go brittle and shatter after a while.

[45609]

A problem with soldering zinc based materials is that galvanic corrosion of the joint occurs very rapidly after the joint has been made. Get some paint on it as soon as possible to reduce the risk of it falling apart later on.

[will5210]

I've had a think & even if I am able to join mazak, it'll still be difficult (for me anyway) to make a neat & acceptable join. I think I'll be lazy & use my other K3 running plate as supplied for my next K4 or have a go at scratchbuilding with some bits of brass.

Cheers